It's not the mix that's the problem, something else is going on. You need to post pics of the plants that aren't doing well in order to fix the problem, otherwise there's no way to really know what's going on.

As for fertilizers, look at Dynamite and others, just make sure they're for veggies, not trees or ornamentals. Sounds like you never switch the plants into fruiting stage -- they're focuses on growing huge with a ton of nitrogen. You could also have a calcium deficiency -- they drop flowers due to lack of calcium.

kawaiineko, "I ended up with huge plants and little/no fruit."
My first reaction is that the two plants belong to the same family and that they both are considered "dry weather" plants.
Do the plants flower at all? If "No", then it is likely that the growing conditions, water and nutrients, are all too favorable for growth. You might not be able to do much about the fertilizing aspect, but you might be able to withhold moisture.
Try that but watch out for fertilizer scorch/burn.
If the plants do flower but they wither, try this LINK.

Compost is a low nitrogen fertilizer, so maybe they got too much? If no flowers that might be true. With peppers they do need a long growing season and warm temps to really produce. They are from tropical or arid regions. Minimum outside temp is 70 degrees. Some can grow with less, but they need high temps. I use a cold frame or walls of water till temps reach the right levels.

I had blossoms on the pepper plants and what little fruit I did have was small.

People here have suggested 'other fertilizers'. Can somebody plz give names of fertilizers that are compatible with container gardening that have a more balanced NPK?

As I said I've looked at tons of fertilizers, but the ones I've found have been made to be mixed with water and applied at the surface of the soil.

kawaiineko, so, they did get fruit but these were small.
A varietal characteristic?
Are others in your neighborhood growing the crop?
Are they more successful?
Are nurseries or box stores promoting the sale of these plants?
Drew51 made a good point about growing the crop outside of its 'season'.
If all the evidence support your efforts, then fertilizer might be the key.
I want to suggest additional Potassium but I am wary for two reasons.
The first is that potassium is somewhat antagonistic to nitrogen. But nitrogen deficiency is easily diagnosed.
Secondly, I would not be surprised if calcium also becomes deficient. So watch for early symptoms of blossom end rot.
There! Now you know all I know about tomatoes.

This post was edited by ronalawn82 on Sun, Feb 2, 14 at 4:36

As I said I've looked at tons of fertilizers, but the ones I've found have been made to be mixed with water and applied at the surface of the soil.

Why is that a problem? There are many good brands of those and they have been proven to work quite well for many container gardeners.

digdirt, the short answer is that I do not know. My experience with soluble fertilizer is limited to Miracle Growî and Petersî 14-14-14 on outdoor annual beds weekly; and at 'half strength' on interiorscapes - once or twice a year. I have grown edible plants in Earthboxesî but these units utilize solid fertilizers.

MG has a better ALL PURPOSE fertilzer that come as liquid. It is formulated as 12 -4- 8. The proportion is right ( 3-1-2). One of the popular granular is OSMOCODE widely used by container growers. Fertilizer like 14-14-14 are out of proportion for most plant needs and in the garden they cause P and K accumulation. K accumulation can cause problem with magnesium uptake. Those fertilizers are just like shooting in the darlk, with the perception that they have plenty of everything you need.
JMO