I'd like to second everything that Al has said.

It's hard to go wrong with a gritty mix for Maples.

Let me speak a little to the question of substituting ingredients, since I started growing
Maples before I had acquired Turface. In my area, Orchid Bark (fine grade), large Perlite,
Pumice (scoria), and Quartz are readily available - so I used these ingredients to make a sort of
gritty 5-1-1, with no peat moss.

When collecting little seedlings and saplings, I simply stuck them into a mix of Bark and Perlite.
But when re-potting, I used the Pumice and the Quartz for water retention, durability, and drainage.
I've helped others re-pot their Maples in mixes of Bark, Perlite, Pumice, and Gravel with great results.
Some mixes have required more frequent watering, and some less.

Substituting ingredients is a lot of work and the variability in product can cause some hit and miss.
While there is much to be said for experimenting with the concepts of drainage and really becoming familiar
with manipulating these potting mixes, it is much easier to follow the formula that has been proven
over the past 20 years.

Foliage Pro user here, too!

Josh

I can tell you , you can't go wrong with help from these guys. Their beautiful tree's will reflect that. :-)

Here's a link that may help. Members have posted and shared where they find the different items for the gritty mix.

I hope it helps.

JoJo

Here is a link that might be useful: Supplies by State/Region

I just potted two japanese maples in containers. I put a large rock in the drainage hole, then gravel/sand, then potting soil. i'm afraid the rock will prevent proper drainage. should i repot without the rock??

The layer of gravel/sand is more likely to hinder drainage than the rock.
I'd be inclined to remove the rock and the gravel/sand, and put a screen
of some type over the drainage hole instead. Of course, it's a bit late in
the season to be disturbing the roots of maples, but I doubt you'll kill
the trees outright...as long as they're in good health to start.

Josh

Agree with Josh. - drainage layers simply raise the layer of soggy soil that usually resides at the bottom of the pot, essentially reducing the volume of 'healthy' soil available for root colonization. Maples do require a free draining soil to thrive, and there is a lot written on this forum about maintaining them in containers.

If you want to understand how water behaves in container soils, which is a very important aspect of container culture, just follow the link.

If you want to read more about maintaining trees in containers over the long term, follow the link below. You'll find plenty of helpful information - I promise. ;-)

AL

{{gwi:3257}}

Here is a link that might be useful: Trees in containers

Al, that JM bonsai is beautiful! How old is it, what kind is it, and how did you start that one? I have a vision to have a JM bonsai on my deck, but I am still up in arms about what to start with; a 1# nursury plant would be best, because I am affraid to buy an expensive bigger one and lop the trunk. I hope to hear that it's not overly advanced to start with a smaller 1# size tree.

Joe

Hi all

I have about 25 acers to repot this year in new plastic containers ( see pic )and i intend to do it in A1's gritty mix.
( These pots are made by an italian firm, Pasquini & Bini.)
I used what i had at hand i.e. pine bark, crushed high fired clay beads, some perlite and tiny gravel.
My question is about fertilizers, specifically on the subject of adding Ca and Mg.

Adding Mg is fine but i'm afraid to add Ca for i thought Acers didn't like it ?
Thanks.

This post was edited by fabricec on Sat, Feb 2, 13 at 12:40