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Pumice versus Perlite
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Posted by californian 10 (My Page) on Wed, Mar 11, 09 at 15:18
| They both aerate the soil, both hold nutrients, and both cost about the same retail in small quantities. Any opinions about which is better? One thing I don't like about perlite is its so light it floats on water, and tends to separate from the soil mixture and rise to the top when watered. I believe I read pumice lasts longer. |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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- Posted by tapla z5b-6a MI (My Page) on
Wed, Mar 11, 09 at 16:03
| Size is important, weight can be an issue, but where weight or cost differences aren't a consideration, and if size is appropriate, I'd opt for the pumice, even though in some pumice deposits, high pH can be an issue. I KNOW what JaG is going to say. ;o) Al |
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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I KNOW what JaG is going to say. ;o) What? That perlite is a hideous, ghastly, freakish looking white thing that stands out like a sore thumb in a potting mix? :) Go for the pumice. More seriously, perlite is just fine, not every potting mix ingredient can have the same good looks as the sexy Turface and bark. :) |
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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I did a little more research and found that some types of pumice float on water too. In fact floating islands of Pumice 19 miles wide have been discovered in the Pacific, some with plants actually growing on them. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pumice_raft |
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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| "both hold nutrients" I believe that perlite holds no nutrients at all. Correct me if I am wrong. I would go for pumice too, if I could get my hands on some locally...:-) |
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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| I'm a hydro grower and I grow tomatoes and strawberries in 100% perlite using static technique (see link). Perlite is virtually free @ $14 for a 5 cubic foot bag. I buy it at a farm supply store. It comes in three grades. I'd stay away from the fine, powdery one as it tends to clump and clog things up. The nice thing about perlite is it holds moisture. "My" moisture is laden with nutrient and while the perlite itself does not provide anything (except a little phosphorus maybe), it gathers and holds whatever you stick into it. When I want to switch crops, I merely wash it for three days in 30% hydrogen peroxide and it's good to go; no wee-beasties and the pristine white color comes back too! Using it as a soil enhancement would give you the same results and while it is true that it floats, that only happens if you over water and leave standing pools. It's great stuff. As for pumice, I've never seen it used for anything except for scraping your heels in the shower. It is a lot more dense than perlite. Both are mined from the earth, but pumice is produced naturally by volcanic activity, while perlite is mechanically heated until it explodes like popcorn. Hope this sheds some light on each. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Static Technique Explained
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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| Mike, it's the pores or cavaties in both the perlite and the pumice that are able to trap and hold nutrients until the plants need them. Neither product provides any significant nutrient input on their own. If given a choice, I opt for pumice as well, simply because it doesn't 'float' to the same extent as perlite. |
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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| I believe perlite has a closed cell structure, so while it does have many pores, they are sealed off and cannot hold any water or nutrients. This is the reason it floats. I think that's what Mike was referring to. |
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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- Posted by alys Zone 5/6 - MO (My Page) on
Thu, Mar 12, 09 at 17:22
| Where does one find pumice? I've found perlite at most stores, but don't think I've ever found pumice. |
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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This outfit in Corona, California sells Perlite for $16 for a 5 cubic foot bag and pumice for $3.85 for a 1 cubic foot bag or $47 for a cubic yard bulk. The trouble is they only deliver in a great big dump truck with a minimum delivery charge of $180. I don't have a pickup truck so would have to have it delivered. They said pumice weighs 900 pounds a cubic yard, so you couldn't carry much more than a yard in a pickup truck anyway. For comparison sake, sand or gravel weighs around 2500 pounds a cubic yard. http://www.ofwolfinbargerinc.com/plantprices/list.nhtml |
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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| I mix perlite and pumice and gravel with the bark, so the look of the perlite isn't quite as distracting. Grey pumice and sharp quartz gravel isn't too bad (for my purposes, at least), and the weight of the perlite and gravel balance out. I do appreciate perlite's ability to lighten the weight of a container. Sometimes, I'll hold back a small, perlite-free batch of mix to be used as a top-dressing in the container. Josh |
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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| On the pots I have my tomato seedlings in I find putting a quarter inch thick layer of fine sand on top of the potting mix keeps the peat and pumice from floating away when I water the pots. Also makes the water soak in faster. |
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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| Everyone here makes a lot of good sense. Seems everyone has great results with both too. Great help and kind people! But californian, in the end, it is important for YOU to figure out what "purpose" you are using perlite or pumice for, and why? You can even use both at the same time. Each has its advantages and disadvantages as was pointed out... Do you want it to hold nutrients,or to lighten a pot? Pumice is much heavier than perlite.. Do you want to use it for looks? White verses grey? For the ability to hold its form, or crush over time and disinegrate? For drainage or for moisture? How much moisture do you want to be held in your soil? Perlite holds alot less moisture than pumice for me. I question the moisture thing.. If it holds moisture,then why did a soil I accidently made with too much perlite, dry out so fast, on cool days, but even more so, within minutes on warm sunny days? I had to amend it. How long can a plant survive in a pot with mostly perlite? I use pumice for moisture, and perlite for drainage. My pots can go for days without watering, because of the ability for pumice to hold lots of moisture, while at the same time, not keeping the soil "wet" Have you ever heard of "turface". For me it works the same way... I use perlite for drainage and to keep certain pots light. In some I use both. If you can get your hands on both, try growing a plant in 1/2 peat and 1/2 perlite, then 1/2 peat and 1/2 pumice, and you will clearly see what I mean. Anyway, I don't know what you are going to use it for. It is up to you to decide for yourself:-) Happy growing.....:-) Thanks everyone for helping out! |
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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| jefe, perlite is available in various forms but expanded perlite is used most often for horticultural applications. It does not have a closed cell structure and looks very much like popcorn, with various fissures, cavaties and crevices. Its ability to trap and hold both water and nutrients (in solution) is pretty well established :-) The expansion process is what makes it so light. |
Here is a link that might be useful: all about perlite - more than you ever wanted to know!
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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WOW gardengal, That is a very imformative article...Thanks! Loved it. I never knew this of perlite...It certainly has a purpose in life! |
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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| Well I didn't see any mention of an open cell structure in that link. It did say that the mineral fraction has a specific gravity of 2.2-2.4, meaning it's ~2.3 times heavier than water and should easily sink if the pores are filling with water. The fact that it floats leads me to believe that most of those pores are impenetrable by water. I believe the only water and nutrients it holds are in the film that clings to the outer surface. It definitely has some good uses, I just wouldn't count on it to hold additional water and nutrients. |
RE: Pumice versus Perlite
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- Posted by tapla z5b-6a MI (My Page) on
Fri, Mar 13, 09 at 17:10
| Compare perlites porosity to those plastic foams that are closed-celled. They are quite unlike sponges, which are open-celled. A fair amount of water adheres to the surface of closed-celled materials because of the greater surface area and to some degree, surface micro-porosity, but water won't fill internal porosity as it will in Turface, calcined DE, and to some degree, pumice. Here's some perlite info, mixed with a little about vermiculite, copy/pasted from one of my previous posts: Perlite is actually a form of porous glass that is made from a mineral called obsidian (or an aluminum silicate rock). It's heated and kind of popped like popcorn. Vermiculite is mica that is treated in much the same way. Trapped moisture expands and creates lots of air pores in both products. In soils, perlite promotes drainage and improves porosity. It's also effective for starting seeds & cuttings. Actually, perlite holds quite a bit of water @ about 3/4 quart per gallon of perlite. The dry weight of perlite is about 7 lbs/cu ft. Wet, it weighs about 18 lbs for the same volume, so it holds more than 2-1/2 times it's weight in water. Vermiculite is about the same density, and has a even higher capacity for holding water and a very high cation exchange capacity. It also contains magnesium and potassium that are available for plant uptake, but it is not very durable and will compress if handled when wet. It also has a slightly higher pH than perlite. Al |
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