All they are are specialized boxes, mainly divided into a bottom box (to hold the plants) and a top frame to which you secure chicken wire and black landscaping fabric.

Make them from redwood or cedar, or that plastic stuff used to build never-paint fencing.

If you wanted to build one that was 12x24" (arranged vertically) for succulents out of cedar fence boards:

Cut three 4"-wide (I think that's how wide they are... if not, adapt all measurements) cedar fence boards all 24" long. Lay them side by side and make sure the group is square. Then cut two more boards 11" long, lay them across the three at each end, and screw the crosspieces to the three boards. This is the backing board, the foundation. Attach some kind of heavy-duty hanger(s) to the back of one of the crosspieces with screws.

Cut two sides 3"x24", set them on-edge on top of the backing board, and attach them with screws (from the back). Cut one more side to fit one narrow edge between the two longer ones. Before you attach it, drill several 1/4" drainage holes in it. Attach to backing board. This is the box that holds the soil. The 'top', vertically speaking, is left open for watering.

For the front frame, think 'picture frame'. Cut 2" wide strips of fence board, 2 each 24" long, and 2 about 8" long. Form a rectangular frame, placing the nicest side down, and make sure all the corners are square. Fasten the corners together with flat metal L-brackets.

With the frame still face-down, cut and attach a rectangle of 2"-mesh chicken (1" is too small to plant through) wire to the back side of the frame (the side with the metal brackets). Make it a little smaller than the outside of the frame (if the boards are 5/8" thick, cut the chicken wire about 21"x9"). Center it carefully on the backside of the frame, and staple it securely to the frame with non-rusting staples. This mesh will hold the weight of the moist potting soil and plants.

On top of the chicken wire (frame is still face-down), staple a piece of black landscape fabric to the frame. Leave a 3" wide (or so) flap of fabric at the bottom to sort of cover the drainage holes and prevent the soil from gradually washing out. This will hold the soil.

Fit the frame over the box so it looks good, position carefully, and pre-drill two or three screw holes along each edge of the frame to hold it to the backing box. It would probably be wise to temporarily set the (non-rusting type) screws in the holes as you go, so you don't accidentally shift the frame and drill the holes so they don't line up. Then remove the screws and set aside.

Remove the top frame and set aside. Lay the backing box flat and fill the box right to the top with a mixture of potting soil and sharp builder's sand. You may want to cut and temporarily screw in place a piece of 3" wide board to fill that top edge so you can fill it right to the edge without the soil falling out. Remove it just before or after hanging the planter.

Firm the potting soil/sand mix gently. Set the frame over the filled box and screw in place. DO NOT WATER THE SOIL YET.

Get your collection of succulents and estimate where you want each. With an Exacto knife or small scissors, cut an X through the landscape fabric, inside the wire mesh holes, fold the flaps under, and insert the roots of your succulents.

Place your planted box FLAT in a safe place with plenty of light, where it won't be in your way, and won't have to be moved. Water the plants in well. Let the soil settle and the roots grow... I would give them at least a month. When you think the time is right, let the whole thing dry out quite a bit so you can lift it relatively easily. Hang in a place where it will get some light, and where you can water it without damaging surfaces below it. Don't forget to remove the top board that you put there temporarily... while you can water it from the front, water from the top will insure that the deeper roots get water, too.

Note: use water-resistant materials and non-rusting metals for all parts, or the moisture will rust them out and whole thing will collapse, probably just when it looks it's best. Use screws, not nails, for all construction -- nails will pull out with the weight. The screws should be long enough to hold securely.

Feed occasionally with some diluted Miracle-Gro.

Sue

p.s.

If you want to make one to hold plants that are more water-needy than succulents, you'll need a deeper box, like 6" keep. Wet, that's going to be HEAVY. I would hang it as usual, but also screw a length of 1x2" or 2x2" wood piece right under the planter to help support the weight. It shouldn't show.

Sue

Anyone have a picture of the hand made ones? I just sat down in my office upstairs (been working from the diningroom table this winter) and low and behold the gardeners.com catalog from last year is open right to the Living Walls...I was oogling them last year but couldn't afford them. Still can't afford them, but can probably afford the supplies to build one or two.

Thinking about using these for herbs...will hang outside for the summer, but then move inside in a sunny location for fresh herbs all year long...and won't it look cool on the wall?

Anyhow...if anyone has pictures or even diagrams, that would be helpful.

Thanks!

Pam