I use A timer And a lawn Sprinkler valve. 110 vt timer into a discarded electric razor charger, into the sprinkler valve. Into A pressure reducer to 15 lbs. reduce pipe size to 1/4 in.with drip connectors. run 1/4 in line into over flow hole. set timer for 1/2 hr. late in day then hand fill to check how much more you need. that can be adjusted with either time or increasing flow from sprinkler valve

That's a great idea. It's very simple. I was actually thinking of doing something like that at first.

Although, being "semi-automatic", it's not enough fun for me as an engineer. :-) Also, my concern is that if I have multiple Earthboxes and/or integrate it into my drip system, I may end up overfilling or underfilling the box(es). Since I plan to connect this to a 50-gallon water tank, I'd like to be a bit more frugal with my water use, lest I have to fill THAT up too often.

I have the storage bins for water now...got them on clearance at HD. Put a fitting into the bottom to attach to drip line. Now, if Earthbox would just send me my second box so I can try it out. ;-)

Stay tuned,
Greg

Try this: Assuming all of your EB's are at the same level, and that all of the overflow holes are at the same level, plumb a barbed hose fixture at the very lowest point on the sidewall of each EB. If you were to tie all of the units together with hose and T fittings, they would all maintain the same water level. Now if you add another device to the line (like a rubbermaid container or even a five gallon bucket) and were to add water to that device, it would propagate to all connected containers and all containers would self level. So setting the level in one would set the level in all. All you do then is plumb a cheap replacement float valve from a toilet into said five gallon bucket, connect to your source water (may have to check the 50 gallon tank; unless it's elevated, it may not have enough water pressure for activating the valve; don't know what it's activation pressure is), and set your level. Should keep everything topped off.

-bdev

Now that idea is even slicker. The advantages:

1. Only one float valve regardless of number of boxes
2. Ability to install/monitor/replace float valve without opening box

Of course, all the boxes must be at the same level, but I think I can do that in my setup. I am digging a trench in the flowerbed to put them partially below grade, so I'll have to be diligent to make sure they're level.

That helps a lot. I got my second box last night and realized the crossmember supports in the soil screen make it nearly impossible to fit in a float. Even if I got it to fit, the weight of the soil on the screen may cause the float to stay down too far to seal the valve. This way, I don't have to modify the box or risk system failure.

I don't even think the tube has to go in at the lowest point, does it? If I were concerned about leakage, or otherwise just didn't want to punch any holes in the Earthbox, I figure I could just slide the line into the overflow hole and make sure it sat at the bottom. As long as I can get the lines purged of air (by raising the source tank above the overflow hole, then siphon action should keep the levels in all tanks and source tank equal, right?

Greg

Got the system set up...at least for two boxes as a shakedown rig. Thanks to bdev for the tip on the waterbox. That setup worked, but here's the lessons I learned:

1. I'm having a bit of trouble getting the right water level. The cheap floats I have aren't easily adjustable, especially considering the shallow water level of the earthboxes. Had I realized before I bought the valves that I'd be using a seperate waterbox, I'd have purchased a better, more flexible unit that didn't need to fit in the Earthbox. I may find a better, vertically oriented unit that has a smaller footprint (not a lever-arm style) for the upgraded unit.

2. Using 15-inch strips of foam is a PERFECT way to have a remote indicator of box water volume. This works with the auto filler or not. Just cut a piece of lightweight foam and slide in the filler tube. When it disappears into the tube, you're more than half empty. Works slick.

I can post pics if anyone is interested.

Greg

Glad the setup is working! Sorry about the float issue that your having; that was one of the reasons I've been playing around with toilet floats. They're cheap, easy to install, and they are designed for adjusting float level. One thing that's nice about a self leveling rig is that you only have to be concerned with the top of the level, not the bottom, so if the EB's are elevated above grade and you need to drop or raise the water level, you can physically raise or lower the water box instead of adjusting the float valve itself.

Greg & Bdev,

Thanks so much for taking the time to document this slick approach to keeping EB's filled. It's always a pain for us to find people in our neighborhood to fill the EB's when we are out of town so I'll definitely be putting this together for next season.

Have either of you have actually plumbed "a cheap replacement float valve from a toilet into (a) five gallon bucket"? Since float valves normally mount into a hole in the bottom of the tank, I'm a little puzzled about how to fit one into a bucket. Punch a hole in the side and use CPVC pipe? A photo of the completed product might be useful.

Thanks again, Will

I used a lever arm float valve, thinking I'd put it IN the EB. I am still
using my prototype box, and am not sure how I'll change it when I redo the
setup in a few months. I may try to "go vertical" with a toilet type for a
smaller footprint and more adjustability, but haven't tried it yet.

The other concern is that I doubt many toilet valves can be adjusted down to
as shallow a depth as the EB water level.

Let me know if you have any luck!
Greg

For those interested in float valves, i highly recommend not putting the floater in the EB for all the above mentionned reasons but specifically because roots (esp. of tomato) will make it into the reservoir and may trigger the valve to a permanent on or off!

The seperate controller device (with float valve) that links a reservoir to multiple growers works great, i have done it myself this summer. however, make sure all tubing is black to prevent clogging from algea growth, and that your reservoir and controller container withstand the force of the water it contains. slight variations in wall shape of the controller box will modify water depth.

I have a question:

For those with experience with self-watering containers or earthboxes that are rigged up with constant water level systems, have you have any problems with root-rot...i have read somewhere that this might be a real issue....

thanks

I am going to do automatic watering next year for ALL of my self watering containers....terminal laziness!

however, I have LOTS of water from a 55gpm well, so I just need a timer to shut it off once all the boxes/containers are full...if there is run off, no problem. no emitters necessary, I guess...just the small tubing?? what can you use to terminate these?

the idea of the foam in the pipe is a real good one!!!! I won't even need to go outside - just look out the window!

BTW, has anyone had a problem with mosquitos growing in the self watering container reservoirs?

Michael

Ben,

Root rot is a concern, but I can't imagine it's any worse than filling up the box every day. Unless there is some rule about letting the roots dry out that the EB people didn't tell us about.

Actually if you were worried about that, you could probably set the float to keep the box at a LOW level and the water would stay moist with more space between bottom of soil and top of water. That said, maybe there's no good reason to keep the level as high as possible?

Went on vacation for a week, and my EB plants did the best. My drip system just kept my other plants on "minimal life support".

My tomatoes are dying off, but they did so about the same time last year in the ground. I planted ones in the ground THIS year too, and they look a bit better than the ones in the EB, but then, they didn't grow NEARLY as fast.

So I'll take the quicker, larger stock of tomatoes from the EB, so I can tear out the plants sooner and pop in my peas. :-)

Of course, the late planted peppers I planted in my second EB are only NOW starting to show vigor, so I'll have to plant around them.

The corn didn't flourish...died off early. But maybe it was because I didn't follow directions and planted it in-between two tomato plants that smothered it. ;-)

Since I already have my yard on a drip system, I just dropped a line way down in the fill hole. Since it is still pretty warm here in Tucson, I have the thing set to run for 1 1/2 hours every other day. So far the soil has stayed moist. I think tomato plants are supposed to stay constantly moist. That's why they do so well in the EB. As far as root rot, I have heard of people growing bareroot tomato plants in their ponds and they say the plants thrive.

could someone post pics of these procedures. i sure would appreciate how this works. thanks

I know about a simple devise in aquariums that could be used as an automatic water connection between numerous earthboxes. It's a self leveling siphon. Rigid plastic (PVC will work) tubing is bent into a complete loop with both ends going down into the fluid in two adjacent containers. A small hole in made in the top of the loop whose leg goes into the recieving container. This hole will release the siphon suction that would exist if the hole wasn't there. Water is drawn into the first part of the loop from the feed container. When the water in the loop reaches the crest of the inside surface of the other part of the loop it falls down the exit leg into the recieving container. An important point about this is the height of the bottom of the inside surface of the loop. This is what determines the water level of the feed container. The water supply to the first tank could be controlled with a float valve setup in the last container. So a series of containers can be connected and the water level is controlled in each container by the loop height at the exit of each container. By altering the float valve in the last container to feed a tube to the first container and NOT the container that it sits in, an automatic water feed can keep filled a self leveling series of connected containers.
The loop has to be a complete loop. Up from feed container completely around in a loop then down into the recieving container.
A loop can be made with 1/2 pvc tubing and fittings. (6) 90 degree fittings, (2) long pieces of tubing, various short pieces of tubing to connect the elbows in a loop. A hole is drilled into the top of the elbow that feeds the downpipe into the recieving container. It takes some adjusting to the short tubing pieces to adjust the water level. It works I've used it for years.
I tried to paste a small drawing to illustrate this but the paste would not work.
Feel free to email me about this.

Tom's idea sounds pretty slick, and may offer some other options. I found a pic (attached).

You need a float valve with a hose outlet (mine just drips out the valve itself). But if so, you could have the boxes at different levels, highest first. The water would pump past the float (at the lowest level) and up to the inlet of the highest box.

Another advantage is the loop could be attached to the outside of the box and give a good visual indication of water level.

With all my boxes at the same level, I'm thinking my "parallel" system with float at the beginning is simpler, but I need to keep mulling it over.

Thanks Tom.

Greg

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:40188}}

If you go to a hydroponic shop they have small float valves that are designed to fit into small hydro res.s. They sell for 10usd, but will fit in a 5gallon bucket. So you can go from 55>5 controled>EBs.

I am about to set up an entire greenhouse wih this design, Im so glad I found this thread. I have something to add to the setup. Build a nice size worm bin on stilts above your control bucket, and let the urine drain into it. This will dispurse an even flow of good nutes to all the boxes..

Another thing to add. Use a spigot between the 55&the 5. Just incase you need to do a temperary shut off. For example, if you want to do a worm bin run off to fill the bucket you can. Then once you have the water leveled you can open the 55 spigot, and move on.

Hope this helps.

Peace.

Good picture of the loop siphon

Great stuff, keep up with those ideas...

however, could someone explain the advantage of this self-leveling syphon system over a series of eb connected by tubing to a controlling float valve and reservoir?

I just set-up a 50 gallon reservoir with float valve to 10 EB style growers. I am hoping to get some pictures out there for all of you asap.

Here is a link that might be useful: Rooftop Gardens

Ben, IMO float valve is better.

Hello. I am a new member to the container gardening forum.I have used Earthboxes individually before.
I also would like to set up a system as has been described above, using a reservoir tank with a float valve and six EB's, hopefully filled automatically and at the same time.
A water pump type system with level control would also be fine, either way as long as it works, until I decide which type I prefer and why.
I do plan on using dissolving plantfood mixed with the water in the reservoir instead of the dry fertilizer strips in the soil/mix as described in the Earthbox instructions.
This would mean I couldn't just hook up to a water source as I would have to control feeding while watering, thus the reservoir.
While I understand descriptions above it is not totally clear how each system works and is set up by reading a few sentences.At least I understand that it can be done!
Any sources for finding equipment,any links, photos,diagrams, or further descriptions etc for a self watering system(using plantfood in my case)for Earthboxes, or similiar containers, would be appreciated.Emails welcome.Thanks in advance, this looks like a great group.

As promised, here is a link to a few pictures of our networked experimental container garden. We are using a float valve to control water level in ten independent growers.

Here is a link that might be useful: Roof top gardens

Hi, everyone I'm a newbie to this group and also to the EB I ordered the original box, before I checked gardening boards, just this Monday and its not scheduled to ship for 3 weeks. I found a site with instruction on a DIY version and started reading your posts and others and am hoping all I hear from you all about it is true. Does anyone have pictures or in-depth "how to" instructions on how to do automatic watering for dummies like me? All of you sound like engineers, handymen and the likes. This gardening will be my passion now that my children are getting older and I'm retired.
Any drawings/diagrams much apprecited@ Thanks for reading.
Bernard
I

I

Good timing. I was just about to fill my second set of boxes. I noticed that the NEW boxes have a down-ward facing drain hole. So, my old method of putting a 90-degree elbow in the hole won't work. I will have to build a hook shaped fitting to go in the box BEFORE I fill it with dirt.

This might actually make it more stable. The point as mentioned above is to keep the outlet of the tube as close to the bottom of the box as possible to avoid air getting in the line. Then, a float level set to the same height in an external box will keep all your EB's at the same height.

I can take more pics later if needed.

Greg

I did my hosing today (see attached). Haven't tried it yet, but it should work.

The hose at the right is the outlet...as low as possible. The hose on the left is deadheaded to maintain a siphon, but used for more stability. The assembly is glued in place.

Level your E-boxes, attach a line from the E-boxes to another box with an adjustable float set to the right water height, and you're set. I supply THAT box with a 50-gallon tank fed by gravity.

BUT...you might not want to waste your time. Just saw that EB is coming out with a self-watering system sometime soon. Stay tuned. Of course, it'll be overpriced. ;-)

Greg

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:40189}}

Great work everyone! A site you might be interested in:
http://hometown.aol.com/jmalt31/
Gives step by step directions and pictures on building your own Ebox. Very good info.
Greg (KINGGS): Tried to draw source and 2 receiving
Eboxes, but my vertical lines turned into colons, and spaces were truncated. I will try to describe my impressions of your setup, and then you can tear them apart,
and make corrections. lol.
Source has normal syphon tube (or PVC) coming out and
down to the 1st EB overflow hole. PVC is T'ed at that point
with the upward portion connected to tubing going thru the
overflow hole. The other portion of the T continues on to the 2nd EB and repeats the process (about to describe.)
The water flows up thru the hole to another T. One portion of the T has hose going to a low portion of the EB,
and the other side gets closed off. "This maintains the Syphon and helps with the balance." I think this is accurate description. Have two questions...(only two????) lol.
1) Should there be a hole somewhere maybe at the end? to
allow the trapped air to escape?
2) What limits the amount of water and prevents the water
from filling up the soil region?
Thanks, in advance,
Joe