I've had good results with MirAcid supplemented with a little langbeinite/sul-po-mag (since MirAcid doesn't supply Mg or S). Epsom salts would work just as well, but I like the fact that the langbeinite adds some extra potassium to the MirAcid, thereby nudging it a little closer to a 3:1:2 NPK ratio. In general, I think Al (tapla) has made a good argument as to why that particular ratio is a good place to start for most any container plant.

Blueberries don't need much fertilizer, and they don't like nitrate sources of Nitrogen. I just use a little Miracle Gro shake and feed crf in the spring, and I also use a little ammonium sulfate 21-0-0 during the season to push growth.

shazaam

edweather

Thanks for helping out. I'll have to slow down on the nitrogen. I was feeding them like my citrus at about 5-1-2.
I'll have to look into the epsom salts. I have been to cincinnati's professional farm and garden supplier and they don't carry enough in the way of fertilizer

I usually hang in the fruit forum, and Ammonium Sulfate is used a lot by members in that forum. 1 teaspoon per 2.5 gallons. Water well an hour ahead of application. Some use it weekly, but I use it only once a month. In pots you have to be careful, mine are in raised beds. Growth is good, not too fast, and huge leaves. I'm not sure you have to slow the nitrogen. What's nice about AS is it helps keep the PH low too Holly tone I think has sulfur in it too. My soil is so rich I don't worry about K and P, although i do use slow release also in the spring only. I also add sulfur in the spring, but again I'm in a rasied bed. Rainwater is best, most city water is way too basic and a huge problem with blueberries. If using city, make sure you monitor PH level.
As long as PH is correct, BB are easy to grow, Good luck!

You'd probably by fine with the Holly Tone, as well. A frequent poster in the fruit forum has great results with a 6-2-4 granular organic fertilizer. He applies 5-6 oz every two months or so during the growing season, so you could probably round the Holly Tone up to 8-9 oz per application.

Personally, I've thinking about relying more on a granular organic fertilizer or a synthetic controlled release fertilizer. Especially given how wet it's been here in the last month or so, it's been difficult to fertilize effectively with MirAcid.

My soil is about 1/3 peat moss 1/2 container soil I got from kroger when I asked If I could cart their dead flowers away and 1/6 garden dirt. I added about 1 cup of holly tone to 25 gallons of formula along with
VIGERO to instructions
-------------------------------------TOTAL----------- SOLUBLE
BORON-------------L------------- 0.02%----------- 0.02
COPPER-----------O------------- 0.05%----------- 0.01%
IRON ---------------W -------------1.60%-----------0.90%
MAGNESIUM----------------------1.50%----------- 1.50%
MANGANESE------P------------- 0.05%----------- 0.01
MOLYBDENUM----H -------------0.00%-----------0.0
SULFUR----------------------------5%---------------5.0
ZINC-----------------F------------- 0.05%----------- 0.01%
n---------------------O-------------10%
P---------------------O------------- 8%
K---------------------D------------- 8%

foliar feed with 30-10-10 miracid daily

Thanks

Personally, I've thinking about relying more on a granular organic fertilizer "

I do too, but I want to establish my plants first and ammonium sulfate is helping a lot. Amazing results from using it. I will use one dose in the spring once established, just to start them right each year. But yeah a steady feed is better IMHO, but only on established plants. I think young plants suffer a little getting used to their new home, and the PH and soil. The AS has build-in PH control so it makes it easy for the plant to uptake nutrition, Even if the PH around them is poor, they can uptake the food. That really is the key to why it works so well. Established plants can handle the PH changes better, and can still uptake if PH is a little high. New plants cannot. Sometimes in new planting it takes a bit to get the PH right. So the plant suffers, this is a way for them to get through this.

I bought a 10 bag ammonium sulfate just for the blueberry bushes and my citrus trees. I also bought a bag of muriate of potash for the citrus trees only to find out that muriates would be hard on my citrus and the bag marked ammonium sulfate changed it's name on the way home to become aluminum sulfate, ooops. Cincinnati's premier garden store is only 5 x of the others, but not premire. However my plants are growing and the soils ph is below 5 according to my 2 prong tester.

What I thought was funny is I posted this on what I thought was the Fruit & Orchards forum. I could not find it until someone posted to it. I got lots of good help here.

Thanks

Fruitnut uses ammonium sulfate check out his plant in this thread...

Here is a link that might be useful: Fruitnut's blueberry plant