I noticed that recently, too. Dynamite used to have a complete analysis for each product on their website, but they appear to have updated the design and dropped that info. I sent them an e-mail about a month ago, but I never heard back. As best I can remember, it provides most micronutrients, but it's not on par with Osmocote Plus. Unfortunately, nothing is...
I just received a 7 pound bag of the Dynamite Select All-Purpose Indoor/Outdoor 15-5-9 slow release plant food, which looks like a good substitute for the discontinued Osmocote Plus 15-9-12. It is supposed to last up to 9 months. I paid $28.61 for it on Amazon. Here is a photo of the ingredients list: {{gwi:49466}}
Here is the label from my last 4.5 lb. jug of the discontinued Osmocote Plus, which I loved. I paid about $20 for this jug, and it was supposed to last up to six months: {{gwi:49469}}
Here's the label from the only formulation of Osmocote Plus 15-9-12 I've been able to find. It is available from large wholesalers, like BFG Supply, but only in 50 pound bags that cost at least $110. You can purchase versions that last from 3 to 9 months. There is no calcium or magnesium in the formula. {{gwi:49471}}
Note that none of these slow release fertilizers contain urea, which is a plus as far as I am concerned.
It says Magnesium 1.0% and also Calcium Phosphate. Not much but maybe better than nothing.
What pisses me off about the Dynamite is it has 11/12 of the necessary nutrients. How expensive can Zinc be? Just throw some in for everybody's peace of mind. Lazy....
Is Florikote ADV 19-5-9 comparable to the Dynamite 15-5-9 in the micros? I see 50lb sacks @ AM Leonard for~$80. I would think that I should be able to find the big sacks in the SoCal area.
Does anyone have experience with this product for containers?
Is the Dynamite product available in 50lb sacks, and has anyone found it in SoCal area?
Personally, that urea nitrogen component would dissuade me from container use for a few reasons: Having 2/3 of the nitrogen as non-nitrate based may mess with your soil pH/acidity too much. It could also promote more green growth and less flowering. Finally, I hear ammoniacal/urea N only really works in temps above 60 degrees.
Then again, this fert plus your water alkalinity might cancel eachother out and make for a wonderfully stable growing environment. Give it a cautious try -- knowing that the margin for error is much narrower in a pot than in the ground. You should also supplement with a liquid based micro fert once in a while to supply the missing micros.
If I could figure out a dry or water soluble complete source of micros that only needed replenishment occasionally I would be very receptive. Then I could use one of a myriad of cheapo CRF's with only NPK.
But I just can't seem to find the right blend of products. The goal is to be able to irrigate with plain H20 without ferts for the Gmix or 511.
I have too many containers to use $4 lb fert, if I don't have to.
No. The Dynamite 15-5-9 is actually closer to the ideal N:P:K ratio of 3:1:2 than is the Osmocote 15-9-12. Also, both pine bark and lime contain trace amounts of zinc, so I wouldn't worry about that.
I don't know why Osmocote was favored over Dynamite. Osmocote was one of the earliest controlled release fertilizers offered in garden centers, and its other formulations are still the most common ones available in my area. I have tried dozens of fertilizers over the years, and Osmocote Plus was one of the few that seemed to show real results. After joining Gardenweb, I learned that many people here were using it.
As for the ideal fertilizer ratio, I got that from Al (tapla), the same guy who taught me about 5-1-1 and gritty mix. Follow the link below to learn the rationale for choosing a 3:1:2 ratio fertilizer. Al's evidence and reasoning meshed very well with my experience over many years of growing container plants.
ammoniacal nitrogen is not the same as urea nitrogen in Florikan products (they list urea nitrogen and Ammoniacal nitrogen seperately which is apparent when you read the ingredient list) and I would check you local water quality report as your tap water probably supplies plenty of zinc, Oxboy.
This post was edited by nil13 on Tue, Nov 5, 13 at 1:25
Also can you explain WHY the ideal ratio is 3:1:2 ?? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I think the reason is the issue of stability of N, P, K.
P is the most stable of the three, as it is bonded/attached to soil/medium and sticks around for a good long time and in the garden soil it can accumulate over time.
K is semi stable, meaning that it does not leach out readily but it is not as stable as P.
N, when available, is water soluble. So every time you water some of it drains out. And also MAYBE certain plants up take more of it too. But generally and specifically in container gardening N depletes the fastest of the three(N P K).
Having said all that, I would be careful about using N. It often can fool a gardener by growing lush foliage but can cause late fruiting and LESS fruiting. That is why, as the season progresses I reduce the amount of N( like for matoes, pepps). once the plants have enough foliage for photosynthesis, I don't want to grow more of it. But for leafy plants (cabbage, onions ..) I continue feeding N. Because I want the foliage.
OK - found this thread - questions about Dynamite Plus:
1 - how do I find out how much zinc is in my local water? I am in Howard County MD and we are on their county water supply. All I could find was some fluffy report about how great it is w/o the details.
2 - how much zinc is "enough" ?
3 - what are other zinc sources if the water is insufficient (or rainy weather makes me water less & therefore having insufficient zinc for a period of time)
From what I have read, pine bark contains enough zinc to make it not a concern if it is missing from your fertilizer. Here are some excerpts from a North Carolina publication on micronutrients in container mixes:
"Soil test data from native pine bark collected from several locations over time show adequate levels of manganese and zinc... Soil test data have linked excessive zinc levels to growth problems of container-grown crops. The high zinc content generally comes from application of a trace element mixture to media that already contains adequate zinc. In such cases the problem could have been prevented by leaving zinc out of the fertilizer treatment."
> how do I find out how much zinc is in my local water?
Hairmetal, some municipalities put their water reports online. Mine does. Google it or call them - they may send you the report if it's not online.
I agree with others who said zink is probably not a concern, but I did want to answer your question none the less. The water report will contain more important info like pH, alkalinity etc.
Ernie
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