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rkslander

Hydrophobic soil and corn watering

rkslander
9 years ago

Hello folks,

For the past 2 seasons, I've been having a problem with my corn production. I've always overhead watered, and never had an issue with my corn. Nice big cobs, nearly every stalk produced 2 ears of corn, nice and sweet. However, the past 2 years, I've only been getting 1 cob per stalk, and some (about 25 percent) produce no cobs at all. I thought about switching to a soaker or drip hose system for this year instead, but I noticed something when I was planting my late season cabbage: hydrophobic soil.

So, my soil has started to shed water, instead of absorbing. I had a neighbor till my garden the past 2 years with his big tractor, and he tilled pretty deep, and it looks like my soil has started to get a little on the sandy side. Could this be my problem with my corn? Not enough water or water penetration?

My question to you master gardeners, is what is the best way to combat this? I will be adding a fair amount of compost, mostly maple leaf compost, that's been composting for 4-5 years to the garden this year. I also planned on bringing in probably 8 to 10 yards of steer manure to the garden. It's a 40' by 40' garden. Should I add a soil surfacant spray after I've tilled in the compost and manure, or should this be sufficient?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

By the way, I grow Gurney's Gotta Have It! variety of corn. Really sweet, sometimes almost too sweet. I get great germination, and have always (except the last 2 years) got great yields.

Thank you!

Comments (12)

  • dwighthe
    9 years ago

    Have had a soil test done to make sure you're not missing some essential nutrent?

  • rkslander
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    I haven't done that yet. Is there a particular testing kit that you or anyone else recommends?

  • jean001a
    9 years ago

    A professional soil test is preferred and reliable. Tell them you're a home gardener.

  • digdirt2
    9 years ago

    If you are in the US your local county extension service can provide you will a full range soil test including percentage of organic matter for something in the range of $12-20. That is what you need. No home test kit can even come close with any degree of accuracy.

    As for hydrophobic soil issue - have you been burning off the crop residues for some reason? That is usually what causes it. Or have you been mixing in large amount of peat. It is naturally hydrophobic initially. Sandy soil isn't normally hydrophobic and many of us deep till without creating hydro issues so I would doubt that is the issue unless he got down into some heavy clay that has packed in. But either way adding in large amounts of composted organic matter will usually fix the issues.

    So what sort of soil amending have you been doing? What nutrient supplements have you been providing on a regular basis? Corn is a heavy feeder and you may be dealing with nothing more than a bad case of severe nutrient deprivation. A professional soil test will answer all those questions for you.

    Dave

  • grandad_2003
    9 years ago

    Wondering if the 2 ears per stalk were with a different variety than Gotta Have It...my typical production is one ear per stalk on the superweets (sh2).

  • rkslander
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    digdirt,

    The soil around here is very fine sand. It's an old large river bed. Every other year I add in a lot of leaf and other vegetation compost from my compost pile. It's about 4-5 yards every other year of compost. Last year just before planting I brought in 3 yards of steer manure from the local supply company. This year I plan on adding another 10 yards of manure, and probably 5-6 yards of compost.

    As for fertilizers other than compost/manure, I use Gurney's Sweet Corn Food as a side dress when they are about a foot tall.

    I will be getting a professional test done to see where my soil is at, and will amend as needed. I've already contacted them, just waiting to hear back on how much they need for a sample.

    grandad;

    In years past, except for the last 2, I've always got 2 ears per stalk, even on the sh2 varieties. But I have heard that from other people before, too. But I've been growing Gurney's Gotta Have It for several years now with great success, aside from the last 2.

    Now, about watering, what do the rest of you all do to water? Do you use soaker hoses? Overhead watering? How long do you let the water run for?

  • fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX
    9 years ago

    Have you changed plant spacing? Ears per stalk is mainly a matter of plant spacing. But lack of water has an effect as well. Water stress on corn is pretty dramatic visually. Are the leaves rolled in the afternoon? Are the plants shorter than normal? Are stalks thick?

    Optimum amount and method of watering is highly dependent on soil type and weather. A sandy soil usually requires small applications at frequent intervals. Like one inch every 2-4 days depending on weather conditions.

    Nitrogen is another factor that can affect yield in a major way. Big stalks and dark green, broad leaves indicate optimum nitrogen levels.

  • rkslander
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    fruitnut;

    I get thick, strong stalks. Plants usually grow about 7' or so, even 8'. Also nice big leaves, no sign of curling that I've seen. I plant them about 8 inches apart.

    One thing I will say, is that with my leftover seed, I generally give to a few of my neighbors, and they will plant a week or so later. Their plants are always tiny and weak. They grow only about 4 foot tall, thin, and out of 20-30 stalks, they maybe get a dozen small cobs. So my plants do much, much better in my garden using the same seed, from the same bag. I'm just not happy with the yield as of late.

  • digdirt2
    9 years ago

    I don't know how practical this may be for you but one thing that helps when watering hydrophobic soils (like with compacted peat based mixes) is using very warm water with a few drops of dish soap added (to break the surface tension). Usually one time with that is all that is needed and it can be watered normally from then on. Just something to consider.

    Otherwise, I use soaker hoses with my corn. On average mine run for approx. 4 hours 1x a week but how much, how often, and how long all depends on the make up of your soil and the weather. Overhead watering just wastes water, is uneven in its delivery, and encourages foliar diseases and pest issues.

    I am assuming all the manure you are adding has been composted first as it should be but keep in mind that steer manure is normally quite high in dissolved salts and salt build-up in the soil can easily reduce production. Sodic soil from steer manures is even more common. So getting a measurement of the soil salinity is something you would want.

    Hope this helps.

    Dave

    Here is a link that might be useful: Managing saline soils

  • calliope
    9 years ago

    Early producing sweet corn typically have fewer ears than the later producing varieties. Have you changed your seed varieties? Yields are very dependent on several variables, and there is one over which you have no control and that is the weather. I dunno know about where you live, but we've had grossly different (not necessarily undesirable, but different) weather patterns for the last two years and all other things being equal it does influence yield as it impacts when the maturation and reproductive phase occurs.

  • PRO
    Hydrosoil Enterprises Pty Ltd
    9 years ago

    Hi rkslander,

    Sandy, hydrophobic soil is a big issue here in Western Australia and it helps to understand what is happening or it will remain an issue - especially before adding organic matter. Check out Hydrosoil and MuddyThumbs (flick through the slides on the first screen). They are dedicated to solving the problem here in Aus and will explain how organic matter creates a waxy coating over the soil particle leading to water run-off and how best to combat it. Good Luck.

  • azdoctor
    9 years ago

    Where are you located? High levels of sodium in soil can make the soil seal up and not accept water. If this is the problem, applying gypsum should help. Decomposed organic matter or animal manure are also good additives. Watch out for salts with animal manure.

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