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Container Okra.

Posted by Bear_With_Me 8 Pacific NW (My Page) on
Wed, Apr 30, 14 at 0:08

Hi there vegetable experts.

I live in Pacific NW. I have read or been told that okra can't be grown here. Too cool and too short summer.

I don't need big platters of okra. Just some of my own fresh pods for stew or barbecue.

I read it can't be transplanted. Last year I grew some in containers, and planted some seeds directly in a raised bed in May. I transplanted the container plants then too. The only plants that bore, were the container-started ones. They stayed small, but I got a few pods. The directly seeded plants stayed at 2 or 4 small leaves, and died.

This year I bought seeds for the earliest yield, shortest growing varieties, that I could find. The idea is, maybe if they stay fairly small, I can grow in containers, or cover with a plastic cover on the raised bed, to keep in heat.

I also planted some seeds at Christmas time, and kept with other starts in my light garden. Those were Burgundy and hybrid Baby Bubba. Both have stayed small, but both have their first pods developing now. I've repotted twice. It's warm out, so today I planted them in a larger container on the deck. Brugmansia and peppers flourish there, so I hope the okra grows.

Here are my questions.

1. Does okra grow only with a single stem? Can the top be pinched to make it branch? Would pinching to make it branch, increase the yield?

2. If the day is hot, does it matter if the night is cool? Especially if grown in containers that warm up in the sun.

3. Does okra do better if kept wet, or should I let it dry out more?

4. What varieties, if any, do best in containers?

5. Some container plants like crowding, some like being by themselves. Would okra be happiest with several in a large container, or by itself?

6. Should I use high nitrogen, or better to use a tomato-type plant food?

I started seeds from Baby Bubba hybrid, North and South Hybrid, Dwarf Green Long Pod, and Burgundy. Any that I don't place in containers, I will plant in a raised bed. They might get Wall-o-water, or a poly tunnel at first, but with a very unseasonable 90 degrees expected this week, those might be counterproductive.

Thanks for any advice.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Container Okra.

In your climate, you might do better with black plastic pots, which will accumulate more solar warmth.

Okra grows with a single stem until it is topped. In the South, this is done in mid-late summer, which helps to push out new bearing branches.

Okra wants warmth 24/7.

Containers will have a dwarfing effect unless they are quite large. Burgundy is a popular container okra that grows to 8 feet in a garden, half that size in a container.

Water more in warm weather, less in cool weather.

I would give them each their own big pot and feed them when warm weather is predicted. Okra often needs P more than N, so I would use the tomato fertilizer now, and drench with a high N fertilizer when a flush of blossoms forms.


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RE: Container Okra.

You should thin to one plant per pot and water more sparsely than you do other vegetables.
It's still very early for you to plant out okra, notwithstanding the unusual warmth you have there now. When it cools down, move it back indoors. A prolonged period of cool weather both day and night will kill okra.


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RE: Container Okra.

I've grown four baby bubba okra plants together in a 20-gallon cast iron pot in southwest Ohio for the last couple years. I start it around May 1 and plant out three or four weeks later when the weather forecast calls for night temperatures above 55. Our climate is slower to warm up than yours, but when it does warm up, the nights are usually warm as well. And July and August are usually quite warm. I used the 5-1-1 mix with a controlled release fertilizer and fed my plants regularly with Tomatotone over the summer. I watered them a lot less than other container veggies. The plants get about 3-4 feet high and begin producing as many as four to six pods per week each in July. I usually collect all the pods when they are small (thumb size) and pop them in a ziplock bag in the freezer until I get enough for a meal. Not terribly productive, but a lot of fun. I have tried topping them, but as many as half the ones I topped stopped producing or only grew back one new branch, so I don't do that any more. I know my method is not standard, but it works well enough for a Yankee gardener who can't buy fresh okra in any local grocery store.


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RE: Container Okra.

Thanks for the helpful comments. I am taking them to heart. The okra seedlings are doing well inside. Soon they can go outside.


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RE: Container Okra.

Being a new transplant in PNW, I am also trying to germinate and eventually grow some okra. But I am not holding my breath. I used to grow them back in Atl. GA area for years, with no problem. Okra is basically a Southern plant with Hot and LONG growing season. Unless they is a one bred for cooler climates that I don't know of. Everywhere I go, all I can find is CLEMSON SPINELESS. Not a good one : It gets woody before you can say AAH.


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