I read that I should fertilize my garden regularly (every three weeks or so).

Did this source say why you should have to fertilize it so much? And did it address the importance of timing those applications with the fruit set on fruiting plants?

I think it is safe to say that very few gardeners whose soil is well amended or who use granular fertilizers would apply it that often. Perhaps with diluted liquid supplements but not granular.

But if you wish fertilize that much to then most granular 10-10-10 fertilizer is not water soluble so no, that won't work. The only way granular fert can be applied in a "diluted" form is just to apply 1/2 as much per row or sq. foot (whichever the label directions give you) than is called for on the label. Or you can side dress each plant or row with 1/2 the label amount.

So what specific brand or type of fertilizer are we talking about?

Dave

Concur: Useless you are gardening in sand which will hold no nutients, you don't need regular feeding for vegetables. As dave stated, there are a few back yard gardeners that use foliar feeds ( miracle Grow, fish emulsion) which are instantly soluble, quick acting and quick to dissapate. A granular fertilizer is slow to dissolve, slow acting, and usually lasts through the growing cycle of most plants. Heavy nitrogen feeders like corn can benefit from an application of fast release nitrogen just before fruiting begins.

Disregard about 10-10-10's not being water soluble. The only thing not water soluble is the gravel filler. The nitrogen is almost always urea, potassium will be from KCl or muriate of potash, and I forget the phosphorus compound but they are all very much water soluble.

I dissolve 1-2 tbs per gallon water for indoor plants, seedlings, and whenever I want to give a quick dose to plants in the garden. It may need some pulverization if you want it to dissolve quickly.

I'd rather get what I pay for. Sure wouldn't buy fertilizer with gravel in it. If you want soluble buy soluble.

This sounds a little rich to me. If your soil is infertile then maybe this is justified. I would rather just use home made compost, comfrey and worm bin tea. If the plants are not growing particularly well I will add a little blood, fish and bone meal or chicken manure.

Here is a link that might be useful: Allotment Garden

@ Taz.... When they say 10-10-10, it is clear that 30% by weight is pure fertilizer. It does not matter what the remaining 70% is ; clay , gravel, sand. So in a 20 lbs bag of 10-10-10 there is : 2 lbs of nitrgen; 2 lbs of potasium and 2 plbs of phosphorus. And it is inexpensive. As far as the plants are concerned, it does not matter where the nitrogen atoms come from. an organic fertilizer with the above amounts of NPK costs five times more. So I actually get a bigger bang for my buck.

What ever floats your boat seysonn. I'd rather have pure fertilizer and use a tbs or 2 on the garden than have to spread 20lbs of it. My garden has enough clay, rocks and sand in it now. Why would I want to add more??
BTW I'm not new to this so I don't need a lesson on fertilizer.

I'd rather save money if I can and disolve my fertilizer

Mike, did you try this? I bought two containers of Shake and Feed that were BOGO that work great for all my container plants and inground plants. However, I just sheet mulched two oleanders and area by my fence, iso of course the granular will be difficult to apply.

Beth, since you have it, you can still use fert in granular form by just pulling the mulch back 6-8" around the base of the plant, spread the fertilizer, scuff it into the soil, and then put the mulch back on top it it. OR you can pre-dilute it in water first if you wish but if you do that much of the fert ends up trapped in the mulch layer rather than going to the plant so use a little more than called for.

Dave

Thanks! I should have been more specific. I used layers of cardboard boxes under the mulch on the oleanders. Just newspaper on those whose weeds are easier for me to pull. I appreciate your help and have looked into diluting the granules.

With layers of cardboard even more of it will get trapped and never reach the plant roots. I'd suggest you water well first, soak the cardboard and mulch and only then pour on the fertilizer. There used to be a root feeder probe type feeder available that you could push down to root level and then feed. Some even drive a 1-2" PVC pipe down 6-8" alongside the plant and then pour the fertilizer down the pipe.

Dave

Yes, when I did this I wasn’t even thinking about all my granular fertilizer. Strictly focused on curbing the weed proliferation.

PVC pipes! What a great idea!

Thanks.