|
| NOTE: I have never done stuff growing stuff in the ground, so I really have no clue what I'm doing with plotting this out. The only experience I have with gardening is container gardening, and a limited amount of experience with raised beds (which I experimented with last year, so I'm still very new to the raised bed method of gardening). I have a very small amount of space to work with a 20' x 20' plot. I really need advice and suggestions with how to stretch out the space without overcrowding the plants. I posted some ideas of what I have, but they are ONLY ideas; I have no idea if they'll work. I need to stretch out the amount of space so I can plant more in less space. Below is the layout... 3 rows of carrots (3' spacing total-1' between each of the rows) 4 rows of peppers 4 rows of eggplant (8' total...2' between each row) The vegetables that are killing me with spacing are the peppers and eggplant. I have two ideas... Doing the square foot gardening layout in the ground (no I wouldn't be doing the boxes....just the layout, which is sixteen 12" x 12" squares) Could I apply the layout of square foot gardening to in ground planting? Would it really save space? Would it overcrowd the plants? I have one question about the square foot layout in the ground. With the boxes, you don't use any row spacing; since I'm not going to be using the boxes, just layout as a guideline, would I still have to use row spacing? I read something online that says to use diamond shaped and/or square shaped patterns to save space. Would this really work? |
Follow-Up Postings:
|
- Posted by stuffradio SW 8A BC (My Page) on Wed, May 21, 14 at 22:04
| Radishes can be grown intensively. I just scatter seeds usually. It's the same with Carrots, but it depends on how many seeds you want to use. With Radishes, you can space each seed a few inches a part, and you don't need 1 foot between each row. If it's just for looks, you can do it that way. For the Carrots, you can just space them a few inches a part also. It depends on how big you want the Carrots to be in diameter. When I planted too closely, I just allowed it to grow until I saw a tiny carrot starting to grow, and then pulled and ate it. You may be surprised how big they get when spaced closely together. |
|
| Could I apply the layout of square foot gardening to in ground planting? Would it really save space? Would it overcrowd the plants? Sure you can. That is what Sq Foot gardening is - gardening in the ground. The only difference is the Mel's mix they use supposedly allows for more intensive planting vs. dirt or raised bed fillings. So what is your 20x20' plot made of? It isn't clear from your post. Is it a raised bed? Filled with what? Or is it tilled dirt, you amended it with what? Dave |
|
- Posted by kawaiineko_gardener 5a (jesusbeloved29@yahoo.com) on Thu, May 22, 14 at 11:47
| The 20' x 20' plot I have is at a community garden; there is the native soil, which is horrible for gardening (w/out amendment); I know, I tried growing stuff in the ground there (@ the community garden plot) just using the native soil and the plants didn't do well at all. The soil has been amended with container gardening soil mix that I just dumped into the plot (some of the containers were too heavy too move because of how big they were, so the soil was just dumped into the plot to amend it) The container gardening mix consisted of top soil, pine bark mulch, Osmocote (a fertilizer), compost, vermiculite, and sphagnum peat moss. However if I was SFG layout in the ground, I am concerned that because there is no row spacing, the plants would end up overcrowded; so if I were to use the SFG layout in the ground, since the layout will be in the ground, will I have to do row spacing? If so, could I reduce the row spacing of the traditional row spacing measurements that I posted above? As I said I want to stretch my space out, but I don't want to overcrowd stuff.
|
|
| No you don't have to use rows. Many folks use Sq Foot gardening guidelines but don't use Mel's Mix in the bed. You can plant just as Sq foot does and work more nutrients into each square or you can reduce the number you put in each square. It is up to you. But either way you will have to add more nutrients to what you have so far. And if you are direct seeding then all you have to do if it looks overcrowded after they germinate is just thin the plants out. Even as they grow if it gets over crowded remove a couple. Don't over-complicate the process. Nothing says once planted it has to stay there if it is creating problems. Pull it so the others can do well. Dave |
|
- Posted by stuffradio SW 8A BC (My Page) on Fri, May 23, 14 at 1:16
| Planting in native ground is very hit and miss. For example, a few years back I started trying to grow vegetables for the first time.I planted Radishes and they were growing and getting leafy. The problem is that they weren't bulbing up ever. A year later, I tried again with another area, and the Radishes did really well! So native soil can be hit and miss. |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Vegetable Gardening Forum
Information about Posting
- You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
- Please review our Rules of Play before posting.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
- We have a strict no-advertising policy!
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.
Learn more about in-text links on this page here





