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mckenziek_gw

what rotation scheme do you use, if any?

mckenziek
10 years ago

OK, so response to my question about the 4-year rotation from "Tauntons's Complete Guide to Growing Vegetables and Herbs" leads me to believe that the system, at least as described by me is not widely practiced.

So do you follow a specific rotation? Can you describe it? Do you think it helps keep pest populations down?

--McKenzie

Comments (12)

  • glib
    10 years ago

    I have many beds in part sun, limiting my choices. I practice a brassica- non brassica rotation. I also use a solanaceae-non solanaceae rotation in the tomato and potato beds, and I use a succession (not a rotation) when I heavily amend a bed (so there is lots of trash mixed in the soil), starting with squash, potato or cardoon, continuing with brassica or beta or other, and ending with lettuce or carrots when the soil is fine.

  • digdirt2
    10 years ago

    You're right that it isn't widely practiced. No crop rotation plan is. Most home gardeners don't have the garden size to allow for it except to maybe rotate rows in the bed and regularly well-amended soil doesn't require it.

    Crop rotation is one of those concepts more directed at commercial growers than home gardeners IMO.

    Personally I have the garden space to do it but since I actively compost and all my gardens are regularly amended with lots of it plus tilled in cover crops the most I ever do is move things over a row or two now and then.

    The search here will pull up many discussions on 'crop rotation' if interested.

    Dave

    Here is a link that might be useful: Crop rotation discussions

  • gin_gin
    10 years ago

    Like Dave said, I don't really have the room.

    This is only the 2nd year there's been a garden in that spot anyway. I have heavy clay soil that I'm working on amending. Though it's a pain to work in, my soil seems to be very nutrient rich.

  • Donna
    10 years ago

    I do rotate crops mostly for the help it gives in controlling pests. So many pests lay eggs in the soil and I do not spray....This is not to say that plenty of folks don't get along without it. They do.

    Anyway, my rotations are fairly simple because I garden in 9 raised beds. I do not mix "families" in the beds and rotate them all on a 3 year basis. During fall and winter, I only use 3 or 4 beds so it's really easy to keep them rotated. All the other beds are planted in a cover crop each winter.

    I have the book you referred to and I read their system with interest. But I thought it was enormously more complicated than just rotating plant families.

    One tip I have picked up along the way...I do not plant solaneaceaes and brassicas in the same beds in back to back years. Both are beloved by flea beetles which will proliferate in the soil when they have a steady diet. This I learned by accident and then found it confirmed in a Fine Gardening article.

  • drippy
    10 years ago

    I also have a raised bed system, and simply try not to grow the same thing in each raised bed that I grew last year. That's as good as it gets for me, although I also amend with compost as often as possible (i.e., when I have enough!)

  • macky77
    10 years ago

    Eliot Coleman's rotation makes a lot of sense, so I try to follow it whenever I can. I don't get tied up in knots if it's not possible, though. I don't grow an equal area of each crop family.

    Year 1 - corn
    Year 2 - potatoes
    Year 3 - squash
    Year 4 - root crops
    Year 5 - beans
    Year 6 - tomatoes
    Year 7 - peas
    Year 8 - cabbage family

  • greenmulberry
    10 years ago

    I try my darndest not to plant the same thing in the same spot two years in a row.

  • elisa_z5
    10 years ago

    I draw a map of the garden, and on a winter night I take colored magic markers, one for each crop family, and make a mark if that family has grown in that bed over the past 3 years. What ever colors are left for each bed are what I can choose from to plant that next spring. I also don't plant onion/garlic family where brassicas have grown the year before. So far it's working--my only pest control is hand picking--and it's fun to play with colors on a cold winter night.

  • glib
    10 years ago

    why no alliums after brassica? Allium is certainly a disinfectant for certain diseases, and in my experience they can rotate together without problems.

  • elisa_z5
    10 years ago

    I've read in several places that while Allium before brassica is good for the brassicas, that Alliums after brassicas will reduce the productivity of the Allium crop that year.

  • mckenziek
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    This is great information. Thanks everyone!

  • tdscpa
    10 years ago

    I plant the same crops in the same places every year, because I have found the arrangement I like.

    At the end of the season, I till it a bunch with my tractor powered tiller, which moves the soil a long distance. Thus, I rotate my soil instead of my crops.

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