It's not too late. In our long growing season, you can take another stab at it and still get plenty of squash. I am growing mine under row cover tents and hand pollinating the blooms. It is really not a big deal. Takes about 2 minutes. And, it is working.

Is there a point in the season where stem borers(which is what I assume SVB's are) will no longer be laying eggs? Most insects have a set lifespan and they do their egg laying at that certain time, then afterwards they are beyond their egg laying phase. If so, maybe new plants could be tented from now through mid July or so, then the plastic removed so they can naturally pollinate.

Having been unaware of stem borers, I tried growing summer squash and zucchini a few years ago, and I was told about stem borers ruining these crops, but I hadn't seen any signs of problems with my plants, but I decided to do a google search to learn more about them, and it said they bore through the stem near soil level, so just for the heck of it I took a close look at the base of their stems, and it turned out that literally every squash or zucchini plant had bore holes and what looked like sawdust stuck to the stems! Actually they had really tore up the stems near the base, yet my plants looked healthy--at first, then they started dying, and I even tried razor surgery and removed a few bugs, but they all died anyway.... Those plants were growing their first full grown squash when they died to, so it couldn't have happened at a worse time.

I've since talked to people who say they'd get borers every year no matter what they did, and that they gave up on growing them.

I gave up on zucchini after a long painful battle last year.

This year, I gave tatume squash a try, since they are advertised as "practically immune" to SVB.

All I can say is - wow.

Here is a link that might be useful: DFW Gardener

I commiserate with the loss. I pulled plants - two yellow squash, a zucchini, and a patty pan - that were gnawed practically in two.

I have replanted and hope that there is enough time before the extremes of summer set in.

I guess I will try row covers next year. Will probably soak the row cover in toxic sludge to increase their efficiency. That may cut down on the SVB problem here at the Wooten household.

I tried zucchini this year (black beauty and eightball). I lost 5 out of 6 plants due to SVB. I was able to save one (at least so far). I'm hoping that next year I have better luck. Row covers won't work for me because I stake my zucchini and force it to grow vertical (space limitations), so it'd be difficult to keep it covered well enough to do anything.

I'm still going to give it another go, myself. I hope you stick it out and try again as well :)

I thought I beat them last year. I think I got through the first cycle. Then we had a week of 100 degree days. I thought I was safe, but as soon as the plants recovered from the heat spell, there was a second wave of SVB and my plants went from disgustingly healthy looking to dead in 3 days. This year I am growing Romanco zucchini I have heard they are more resistant. Plus I am using diatomaceous earth to hopefully keep them from killing the plants.

I start new plants when I set out the first ones. If the borers get the original planting, a new one is ready to go, hopefully when the moths have quit laying.

If by romanco you mean romanesco you will be sorely disappointed.

cait1219,
Dont lose hope... I also live in the metroplex, and am very familiar with SVB and also growing squash. (see my blog:
http://cabalgarlandtxgarden.blogspot.com), although I tend to focus on winter squash and pumpkin.
But like others mentioned, we have 2 growing seasons here, and there is still time to get some nice squash this year.
Here are some tips: Last year I monitored the SVBs carefully, and I notiiced that I saw my last evidence of SVB around late Sept, here in the metroplex.
So I suggest you wait until mid-Sept, then plant them, and monitor their stems ( or cover them with Tulle netting or other row covers) for eggs. Google them. They are easy to spot. On young plants they are often laid on the stem close to the dirt line. Check every few days and pick off any you find. By Oct, you should not see at all, and then your plant will have most of November to mature. Keep a tarp handy to extend the growing season into early Dec. if we get light freezes, by covering them at night.
The other reason I suggest to wait until Sept. is that in the dog days of summer here where its 100+ most of the days, squash fruit will hardly set at all. Last year I grew some in the heat, and got very little production. Most of my female flowers would shrivel and die. Only when the weather cooled did my production spike up.

Forgot to mention... with bush type squash, its easy to keep the SVBs at bay with BT injections, along the stems. I did that last year with my yellow crookneck, and did OK with them. Would have been better if the spot I picked for them had not become very shady towards the mid Fall, so they ended up getting little sun.

I have not had much luck with SVB this year. Although I was able to save a few of my plants with what I call slash and kill. Using a knife to go into the vine and kill the SVBs.