Here is a copy/paste from an email I received from Scotts regarding the use of Roundup in vegetable gardens.

"We have more than one Roundup formula. While some of our Roundup products are registered for use around edible crops, others are not. If the formula that you are using only has glyphosate/ pelargonic acid as the active ingredients, it may be used in and around edible plants, provided the product does not come in contact with the plant. If the formula you have contains diquat or triclopyr, then it must be used in a manner that insures a sufficient distance, preventing spray from contacting sensitive or edible plants. We do not recommend using the diquat or triclopyr formulations to kills weeds in an existing vegetable garden. Finally, if the product was applied to edibles, we recommend that they not be harvested for at least one year's time."

It's always a good idea to go to the responsible source when there are questions about any kind of pesticide (and herbicides fall into that category.) They are the experts and know that they will be liable if they give out wrong information. I had been seeing a lot of questions about using RU around veggies, so I went to the source.

Sandu

Search 'Roundup' on this forum for lots of discussions on its use, good points and bad, in the vegetable garden.

Dave

I don't see how a chemical company who states that "...if the product was applied to edibles, we recommend that they not be harvested for at least one year's time." can be described as "responsible".

Definitely do the search digdirt suggests. There are other, safer, ways to accomplish what you desire.

jmo

It was said
"I don't see how a chemical company who states that "...if the product was applied to edibles, we recommend that they not be harvested for at least one year's time." can be described as "responsible". "

All chemical companies go through very prolonged and expensive testing for the products they sell.

Some are never tested on edibles, or are tested on edibles and found wanting.

The label always describes appropriate use and application.

Some folks use chemicals -- weed killers in the above instances -- because they know they kill weeds. But those same people often disregard the label which says for "ornamental plants, only" or "not for edibles" and/or other similar statements.

Thus, companies which make the above statement are very responsible.

It's the user that's not.

I agree. Keep in mind that companies usually go overboard in their statements just to be on the safe side. Which IMO, is being responsible, because they dont know what kind of idiot is going to pick their product up, misuse it, then sue. Or what if it doesn't biodegrade in two weeks like its supposed to? The company is just trying to cover everything, better safe than sorry.

g'day mitch,

can't see that applying that stuff is ever needed, check how we do our beds and then we mulch heavily and weeds are no issue whatsoever.

you can't realy take to heart what a chem' comany or their supporters might say about a product. there has been much said around the 'net that the residue remains in the soil up to 2 years after use. search out some of the discussions previously had in these forums and others, for the main publicity is all negative against the use of it.

i think there was a case of some sort of litigation some years ago against the company that makes the stuff?? something to do with their statement that it is fully bio-degradable and leaves no residue?? you may find it with a google search.

len

Here is a link that might be useful: lens garden page

Those who have been following gardening issues for years are aware that chemicals come and chemicals go. What is considered "safe" this year if used as directed, is considered the devil's own concoction next year. And when I said go to the "responsible source" I meant the company responsible for making and selling the product. That was not meant to imply any responsible (or irresponsible) actions or policies of the company in question.

Yes, there are less toxic ways to control weeds. But that was not what mitch59 asked. He wanted to know if RU could be sprayed on weeds in an area that was to be planted as a vegetable garden in 2 weeks. That's the question I was trying to answer. Now if he had asked about the best way to control weeds in a potential vegetable bed, then the answer would have been entirely different.

I'm not totally against the use of chemicals. My main point was that if someone is going to use them, then the USER is the responsible party and should be aware of the proper way to use the product. And the company that manufactures it is the best source for that information.

Clearer?

Sandy

"Finally, if the product was applied to edibles, we recommend that they not be harvested for at least one year's time."

The only edibles this would apply to is something extreme like eradicating ivy from taking over a fruit tree.

You don't apply RU to any seasonal veggie crop I know of and have it live.

Every word on a bottle of herb/pesticide is the law and they are totally liable for every word on the bottle. This isn't your same area of governance as the shampoo industry or vitamin supplements. They have to cover every base. Environmental law is it's own area of study and practice for a reason...there's a slew of hardcore laws covering stuff like pesticides/herbicides and their exact uses.

I only use the stuff on backyard poison ivy! And I even hate using it there.

What about using when thistle is growing IN my asparagus?

Are you asking if the Roundup will also kill the asparagus crowns? Yes it can. Thistle is usually easy to control as long as you pull the plants before they go to seed. Wet the soil, put on gloves, and just pull the whole plant out roots and all.

Only other alternative I know of is some folks claim you can paint the top 1/3 of the thistle plants with it using a paint brush while avoiding getting any on the asparagus. Easier to just pull them IMO.

Dave

The roots of Canada thistle (my nemesis) can go three feet and deeper. You can't just pull them. Yes, you can spot spray thistles around any crop, momkr1, if you're very careful. We use old yogourt containers upside down over small plants to protect them from the spray and for the two hours or so that it takes for the RU fully sink in and dry.

macky - Roundup isn't going to kill any roots 3 feet down anyway. That isn't the way it works. Just ask the manufacturer. All you get is above ground kill and maybe a couple of inches down into the soil from any of their products approved for use around any crop. And if you go for the diquat or triclopyr products you will definitely kill the asparagus or any adjacent crop - covered or not.

So yeah, pulling them gets you more of the root removed and a longer period until regrowth without any of the risks.

Dave

Roundup doesn't even work that well, as Dave says.. a spade/shovel and some elbow grease is far more effective for most weeds. Really it is worth the work in the long run to deal with them properly so they don't just keep coming right back.

FWIW, there are now concerns about carcinogenicity of glyphosates by the World Heath Organization that are, of course, being regarded with high skepticism by the manufacturers of Roundup. Of course, there are concerns about carcinogenicity of sunlight as well. There seems to be little risk of this stuff ending up in the water table, as it binds to soil pretty effectively, where it is broken down in a couple of weeks, but still I'd be hesitant about using buckets of the stuff.

I personally think Roundup works great, in places where I can't reach the roots, like next to in-ground dividers. It actually works on roots, but not necessarily by spraying it on the foliage. Need to wet the ground with it, and have it soak in. Roots suck it up rapidly. That's why it is considered a hazard for tree roots. Of course, that may be a matter of using buckets of it.

"The formula enters the plant's system via the leaves and travels through the plant's circulatory system to the roots." - from RU's FAQ page

Glyphosate. If you're not killing the roots, you're doing it wrong.

I think it gets to the uppermost roots. I don't think it necessarily gets to the taproot. Weeds with taproots are what we're talking about here. By the time the uppermost roots are dead, there is no circulatory system that's going to get it to the taproot. In fact, weeds that aren't actively growing are pretty tolerant of glyphosate.

To answer the question of the OP, Roundup degrades naturally in soil on time scales of weeks to months. I don't think I'd want to put it on my soil two weeks before planting seeds as I'd guess that after that time, there would still be some left. No, I believe that's incorrect that it is gone in a "matter of a day". Ain't so. So whether you're worried about the health effects of it, or the effects on your plants, I don't think it would be smart to put it on your soil for vegetable gardening.