Angular leaf spot is caused by a bacteria, so it will not respond to fungicides. It is probably established in your soil, which means resistant varieties are the way to go. There's a partial list at the link below.

As it is, your plants don't look so bad, and I'd let them bear the nice crop they are getting ready to produce and pull them out a little early.

Here is a link that might be useful: als resistant cukes

I agree, those plants look pretty healthy. Curcubit crops are always a race between getting a harvest and plant death.

Still, I do see a sign of downy mildew, rather than angular leaf spot. This is a different, specific treatment problem, and whatever you've been using may not address it.

Plantus - how do you tell the difference between Downy Mildew and Angular Leaf Spot. I went to the U of Va website and looked up fact sheets on both and both show yellow angular leaf spots as symptoms.

yolos, I've been trying to figure that out as well....

I had those same spots on my cucumbers early this spring. I took them into the county extension office and they said downy mildew. Of course it is hard to compare actually seeing the leaf and looking at a picture, so it may not be downy mildew.

Cucumber have a short harvest life span, especially in hot weather. But as mentioned, your plant are not that bad. I would remove the badly affected leaves and continue treatment on schedule .

Also, I would sow more, right away. Cucumbers love late summer cooler weather.

Yo, pathology guesses are guesses, but the original poster suggested a multi-year problem, and prolonged wetness was not an issue. Bacterial diseases run like wildfire for a very short time when the opportunity presents itself, so you often see spurts of damage. Either way resistant varieties will prevent problems. I only grow Little Leaf pickler these days because it's resistant to so many diseases (including bacterial wilt) and it's open pollinated and non bitter.

Other than planting disease resistant varieties next year, is there anything else I could do to my soil in preparation for next season?

I wonder if moving it to the other side of the garden (which receives more sunlight earlier in the day) would be a better idea. This would burn off any condensation sooner each day and reduce the chances of mildew (if that really is what I have).

This post was edited by njitgrad on Mon, Jul 14, 14 at 10:27

Maybe go for a second planting?

I started seeds last week for my replacement cucumber planting. They're just starting to come up now and they'll go into the garden in a week or so.

My cucumbers always bite the dust about this time in the growing season from Downy Mildew (even when rotating and following other practices for preventing disease spreading). I have been searching the internet for downy mildew resistant cucumbers. What I found was that in 2004 the disease adapted/morphed and many of the cucumbers listed as downy mildew resistant (DMR) are no longer very resistant.

I did find a study by Twin Oaks done in 2013 that shows the following varieties were the top rated in their trials. I do not know how reliable this trial was though:

Green DMR (Cornell) NY12-264
Suyo Long (Twin Oaks)
Ivory Queen (Cornell)
Shantung Shuyo F1 (Fedco) 341

Has anyone grown any of the above varieties. Where do you buy the Cornell seeds. I went to the Cornell website but could not find these seeds for sale.

Here is a link that might be useful: Twin Oaks DMR trials