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| I had posted this link for someone else but now I'm wondering if it's right. Anybody have experience with it? It says to plant carrots now for harvest before Oct 1 frost. But when I got out the seed packets (Burpee) the color-coded map showed Aug-Sept for southern NE. Now, I'm a bit cooler than coastal areas so I went ahead and seeded 12ft or Nantes and 6 ft each of Little Finger and Short N Sweet. Plan on holding off and sowing more (have another 24ft x 2ft bed) 3 weeks and 6 weeks from now - these are in a high tunnel that will be covered in late Aug for peppers and tomatoes so that shouldn't be too late for carrots. Normally I'd trust Johnny's before the map on the seed packet, but it does seem strange to sow when we still have the hottest days of summer to go. Will carrot seed germinate when it starts hitting 90? I watered well, covered with a burlap bag, watered that, and covered with another bag to keep the moisture in. Johnny's also gave 7/5 as date to seed kale for Oct 1 frost date. Kale doesn't mind a frost, and I do have row cover (not planning on that in tunnel) so should I wait? I really want to get basil and more dill and cilantro in (early planting bolting) to be ready when tomatoes and cukes are. Then I can pull the basil and put in kale and lettuce later. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Fall Harvest planting calculator (and other tools)
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by Slimy_Okra 2b (My Page) on Wed, Jul 9, 14 at 14:12
| July 5 seems awfully early for kale in your zone. I don't even plant it so early in my zone, although part of the reason is that I have no space available. Typically I direct-seed kale in early August for a harvest from early October to early November, without protection. With protection, I can force the kale harvest into mid-November. Note that a high tunnel without row cover is worse than being outside, once late fall rolls around. The coldest weather typically follows the first snow and without snowcover for insulation, plants in a tunnel can get quite damaged by a freeze that gets lower than 15 degrees F. With row cover in a high tunnel on sufficiently moist soil, I can continue harvesting into subzero temperatures (F) outside, although quality declines rapidly if the subzero temperatures continue. |
This post was edited by Slimy_Okra on Wed, Jul 9, 14 at 14:15
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| I don't plant based on seed packet recommendations. I use planting calendars made specifically for my area by either local ag extensions or master gardeners associations. I'd recommend you search "[your city or county] vegetable planting calendar". You will find undoubtedly more than one, all of which would be more reliable IMO. |
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| Loribee - I figured that's why Johnny's should be better but the dates just seemed off. I'm not really near a city, Hartford is much warmer than here, so a calculator I could put our first frost date into looked better. There are probably lots of those online too. Slimy - I'm only going to cover the tunnel late summer to extend the peppers and tomatoes into Oct maybe Nov but market ends Oct 1 so anything after that will just be for our own use (or if I get some steady customers at market they can come directly here). Once things get really cold I'm just going to pull the plastic down to 1 side, pull out the nightshades, can let carrots go under straw or burlap maybe but what I'm really trying to do is get some carrots for market now (60-70 days) and then for us later. Given the DTMs on the packets, it seems early unless Johnny's was figuring harvesting over the month of Sept. Agree kale seems really early - I seeded the herbs and still have room but I think I should wait. Once we get snow I'm not going to be able to get to the tunnel so I'm not even going to try cold-weather stuff in there. I could do lettuce early next year if I can find a market for it, but really put it up to extend the season (mainly at the front end) for the tomatoes and peppers. |
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| I understand. I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area where the differing microclimates are extreme. I rely on a book called "Golden Gate Gardening" where the writer actually provides three different planting calendars depending on where you live around here, and even then, my city is exactly on the border of two of them. From that point on, I just sorta guess, LOL You can try searching your county as opposed to just a city and see what you get. I usually have better luck when I widen my searches to my county when looking for things local. |
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| I straddle the line between 2 counties and 3 towns so I use the forecast for town center closest to me but they're stillower and warmer than here. Frost dates are closer to what my parents get 10 miles NW though I can use town center for precip. |
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| Carrots have trouble germinating in hot soil. Consider watering them thoroughly and cover them with plywood until they show signs. |
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| Burlap ok? |
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- Posted by nancyjane_gardener USDA 8ish No CA (My Page) on Wed, Jul 9, 14 at 21:18
| Lori...love that book! I'm in the Stony Point/Todd area,the flat lands, so we are usually several degrees cooler in fall and winter than SR or RP. I'm a lazy winter gardener and usually cover most of my raised beds with cardboard to keep the weeds away, but usually have some broccoli, chard, kale, carrots, celery. Nancy |
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