Shop Products
Houzz Logo Print
arielphf

What does okra need to grow well?

arielphf
9 years ago

The first year I planted okra in my central PA garden, it did great! 5-6' tall plants, lots of pods, healthy green leaves. Sadly, every single year since, for the past 10, I've not been able to get anything taller than 3-4' and only a single bagful of pods.

I know PA is a little north of where okra is supposed to grow, but my first year the okra grew so well, that I was feeding it to everyone. My family got very fond of it and I'd really like to see if I can grow it again. We've had a cool year this year, but even in very hot weather years, the plants do the same thing; older leaves brown from the margins in and die, falling off the plant from the bottom up. After a while the whole plant just stops growing and dies when it's about 3 or 4 feet tall. I've tried moving the plantings to different parts of the garden, lime, fertilizer, watering, not watering, mulching, not mulching - I've still never had anything like the crop I had the first year. I've never seen any bugs on the leaves or roots - and there doesn't seem to be any nematode infestations on the roots, though the leaves look just like those I've seen online on plants with nematode infestations.

I know okra is a heavy feeder and I suspect that the problem with my okra is soil nutrient based. I've amended it a LOT with bone meal, commercial fertilizers and lime, composted yard wastes and epsom salts and at this point everything EXCEPT the okra grows very well. This year, I planted okra in a patch of soil that was left fallow for many years and then was covered with plastic to bake last year prior to being tilled again this year.

The okra plants on the edge of the garden nearest the lawn are doing fine, but the plants in towards the center of the old garden are doing the same thing they have every year; browning from the leaf margins in and then curling up and dropping off. I've never fertilized this grass - like ever - and it's nothing but aged old road fill full of shale and barely grows grass. I would never have thought it to be nutrient rich, but for some reason, it's influence (or nutrients) are keeping these edge okra healthier than the ones further away from.

What nutrients do I need to have in especially good abundance to keep okra healthy? I did a soil test for my garden and it came back as a clayey loam with a pH of 5.6 prior to fertilizing. They didn't note any issues with the soil, though okra isn't something many in PA grow (it's a little cool, especially this year!).

I've taken a few pictures of the plants in question. This shot is of one of my failing okra plants.
{{gwi:108394}}

And this one is of the plants against the edge of the grass. These two photos were taken no more than 3 feet from each other.

{{gwi:108395}}

As you might be able to tell, the only ones that look really healthy with no chlorotic spots are the ones right up next to the grass.

If you have any ideas, or advice on what kind of fertilization you use for okra, or even what key mineral is the most vital for keeping okra happy, I'd love to hear them. Thanks!

Comments (5)

  • jean001a
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    all day sun
    sufficient water
    long growing season

    see link -

    Here is a link that might be useful: grow okra

  • grandad_2003
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    ditto to jean001a comments...

    The only thing I might add is that in our part of the country most folks trim the lower leaves as the plant grows. Leaves at the bottom would not have a chance to turn yellow and dye.

    I can't recall ever having okra disease issues so no experience on this... Is it possible that the brown leaves are due to having over-fertilized the okra -- provided too much nitrogen?

    Note trimmed leaves on Louisiana Green Velvet & Emerald okra below.

  • planatus
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm in 6b east at a high elevation, and I have stopped trying to grow okra except as a centerpiece in a large container. Was 2008 your great year? I think that's the last time I got a good crop.

    The problem is not enough warmth. Under cool conditions the plants grow so slowly and stay so close to the ground that they get leaf blights and look depressing.

    Sweet potatoes don't seem to have this problem and know what do to in a cool, rainy year.

  • arielphf
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks for all the advice guys! Unfortunately, 2008 was not my great year (it was 2003) - which is why I keep thinking it's nutrient rather than weather / site, however, Platanus is right about there not being enough warmth this year for my warm site stuff (so, naturally, this is the year I plant okra and sweet potatoes...). I might have picked the wrong year to ask this question, but the issue appears to be the same as in previous, warmer years.

    I have great sun, have had plenty (more than plenty this year) of rain and have a growing season that is a little longer than the place I used to try and grow okra, Massachusetts (now that was a challenge!). I notice that my soil pH is a little lower than the optimal that was reported by the link jean001a provided (thank you for that!) and so I might pursue that.

    Thanks for all the great advice. I'll follow it and see what I can get. :)

  • zeedman Zone 5 Wisconsin
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Soil-borne wilt is a persistent problem in my area, especially for okra & eggplant. It seems that cooler temperatures are the problem, the wilt generally starts after a few cool nights... I believe the cool temperatures weaken the plant's immune system, and the wilt quickly takes advantage of the weakened state.

    I never found a variety that was fully immune to the wilt, but I did find one that is highly resistant. In Cornucopia, A Sourcebook of Edible Plants, "Pentagreen" is listed as a cool-tolerant okra. I tried it based upon that recommendation, and it has done consistently well. A few plants succumb, but most will bear until frost. In warm years, there is almost no wilt at all. The short plants branch heavily if given space, so the harvest really picks up late in the season... which allows me to freeze a few batches for the winter.