Rotenone is probably the most potent insecticide allowed for organic use. Definitely not something you should just spray without regard to it's toxicity. I suggest you read up on it more before deciding to use it. And I can't help with a brand.

There are other, much less toxic, ways to deal with squash vine borers. A search of this forum will give numerous answers.

Rodney

"Safe" is a relative term. While it is derived from natural sources, rotenone is not a non-toxic treatment and you need to be careful using it. Not exactly something I would want in an edible garden, but it is your choice. The other issue is that contact insecticides are not particularly efficient against this pest as it burrows into the vines, effectively hiding safely out of harms way.

There are other, less toxic methods of control, primarily relating to stopping the problem before it starts. But if you go the rotenone route, any product will be very similar so your choice. Avoid inhaling the product.

Here is a link that might be useful: organic control of squash vine borers

That article mentioned row covers. That is what I use. I have lots of squash vine borers in the area, and down here in Texas they are around until late Sept.
I am growing some Cindarella pumpkins (C. Maxima) and they are doing well. My trick is to buy some wide tulle fabric (buy a pretty big piece of it to cover at least 12 feet of plant) and cover the plants when they are young. I covered mine as long as possible. C. Maxima plants are HUGE so it wasnt long until they outgrew the covers. But when I uncovered them, I immediately covered as much of the exposed vine with mulch. So my main vine portions were protected from the borers. The borers eventually do get in but the plant is so strong and established that they can't kill it. (they may kill some of the smaller runners), plus the main vine roots in multiple places along the leaf nodes.

Here is a link that might be useful: My gardening blog

So Rotenone is still considered "organic"?

I can't manage the row cover. So I'll have to spray it. I planted about 16 Kabocha this year and it was a horrible season. The regular orange pumpkins did well, even with the borers inside (I killed them later on). I think I planted late too (late May).

The term "organic" in describing pesticides should not be used casually. It's not about what's good for people. What kills insects will often hurt people. Hemlock is totally "organic" poison, and it does a nice job on a person. The fact that it comes from a plant, as does rotenone, shouldn't reassure anyone about ingesting it. To some extent, "organic" can just mean that, given a bit of time, the compound breaks down into naturally existing harmless stuff. As noted, rotenone is considered moderately harmful to people, but yes, it breaks down pretty quickly leaving no bad residues. Before it does, it is *extremely* toxic to fish.

That all being said, rotenone works on SVBs, but is slow acting, so as noted above won't necessarily kill them before they lay their eggs inside the stem, which is a somewhat protected area. Diatomaceous earth is a far less toxic material that may do as well. If you can manage it, row covers are probably the best way to go.

I posted tyhis to another thread. I hope it helps someone.

2 years ago SVBs wiped out every winter squash and pumpkin vine I planted. So last year I put beneficial nematodes in the garden as soon as the ground warmed up. Last year and this year I haven't lost a single vine.
Next year I'll re-seed the garden with them including some that go after termites and ants.

Although rotenone is not particularly toxic to humans or other mammals (compared to other insecticides), the biggest concern with its use is its impact on non-target insect species. I personally would stay away from it and any other insecticide that leaves a residue that can attack non-target species.

1. Do you consider yourself at least moderately intelligent?
2. Do you read the instructions on pesticide containers?

If you answered Yes to both questions, don't hesitate to use Rotenone for SVBs. It works, and used properly, it is NOT harmful to the environment. Kind of like driving a car - assuming you don't drive drunk or deliberately drive up on the sidewalk to see people scatter, it's both useful and harmless.

Pyganic is another useful control for several garden pests. If you have problems with Japanese beetles on beans, try Pyganic. It is expensive, but very effective. If used on a 5 to 7 day spray schedule, it is fairly effective at controlling SVB.