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Drainage
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Posted by inkognito (My Page) on Fri, Jan 22, 10 at 15:25
| Once upon a time it was quite common for a whole backyard to have a herringbone of clay tiles (drainage pipe) under it (this is England). Nowadays and on a different continent irrigation is more popular than a drainage system although the aim of both is to ensure an even spread and availability of water. Iron Belly posted some interesting information about 'rain gardens' once and this offers another solution to the same problem appropriate today because of water shortage issues. Drainage is more often discussed here as an emergency measure after a problem has arisen than as a general practice; but. In a way this is a continuation of the Watutse land thread but my question is: at what point of preparing a piece of ground, in an attempt to create ideal growing conditions, would you look at drainage and what would it be like? |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Drainage
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- Posted by bahia SF Bay Area (My Page) on
Fri, Jan 22, 10 at 17:10
| It is becoming more popular here in California to use roof drainage as a source to recharge the water table when conditions allow. It is sort of a reverse french drain, where the first 10 feet of drain pipe off the down spouts is solid, then converting to a perforated pvc pipe with filter fabric sock discharging into a continual trench backfilled with drainrock and also entirely wrapped with filter fabric. The trenches are laid out to take water away from the house foundations, and distribute into the ground around the garden where extra water may be wanted. It also serves to keep water out of the storm drains after rainfall, which helps keep the storm drain system from being overtaxed in storms, as well as putting the roof rainfall back into the ground. Otherwise, I'd say drainage is always a major concern when dealing with a very flat site, or one that is steep. In both cases, drainage is necessary to either take it away, or manage it so that it doesn't cause erosion and/or flooding. At least here in most of California, drainage is mostly just a late fall into late spring concern, as the rest of the year there is usually no rainfall at all. But it never pays to ignore drainage in the initial design, but to plan for it, especially if you see visible drainage problems before you start to redesign the landscape. I'd think drainage tiles are really only a concern with playing fields that are almost flat and have poorly draining soil types. They still get installed for such locations because it is usually important to be able to use the play fields immediately, without having to wait for a slow draining grass field to become dry enough to allow use without damaging the turf or overly compacting it. This usually isn't a critical concern for a private residence. |
RE: Drainage
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- Posted by laag z6CapeCod (My Page) on
Fri, Jan 22, 10 at 17:54
| I find that the two most common situations that need to be recognized as potential drainage disasters in residential site work are walkout basements and large hardscapes. I see a lot of poorly planned and/or executed walkout basements that cause either a low area with no drainage outlet or erosive runoff. But another big problem is that a number of architects believe that gutters detract from the beauty of a home and refuse to have them on the house. Add a few jogs and a walkout basement and you have potential for too much groundwater on the high side of a basement wall. Large areas of hardscape shed off 100% of the rain that lands on them rather than absorbing it. This is often in one direction (away from a structure)which concentrates more water in one place in creasing the volume of water. Another result of creating large areas of hardscape is that they often require added fill to level out the area. Many times this creates a steeper slope adjacent to the hardscape and on the side that the water is pitched toward (away from the structure). A steep slope equals faster runoff. Erosion is caused by volume and speed of water, both of which are enhanced by the description above. Most of the soils where I am are excessively well drained (large grainy sand), so it takes water in very well for the most part. But it also gives it up easy to things like basements. Drainage swales are often very effective here as well as drywells or drain tile. |
RE: Drainage
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| Well, I suppose after deciding what I want out of the area, but in-between deciding on the layout and deciding on plants forms. The layout determines drainage and the plant material chosen also determine the need for improved drainage or for retarding the drainage. |
RE: Drainage
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| Hi, I'm new here & considering my drainage issues. Just bought a new home & my back yard is sloped to a flat area where I have a lot of standing water. I am considering making a rock garden there (pea gravel/crushed stone), maybe incoorporate a fish pond but I am not sure as to that yet. I also have water that pours out of my gutters, down the pipe and straight to my foundation & have bought 3 rain barrels to collect the water & when they arrive will use a soaker hose to my flower beds during the times where rain is lacking. |
RE: Drainage
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- Posted by tibs 5/6 OH (My Page) on
Fri, Jan 22, 10 at 19:38
| If I was building a new house drainage would be one of the very first things I would plan for. |
RE: Drainage
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| "It is far easier to appropriately plant to suit existing drainage than to radically alter drainage to suit a planting." I'm not positive who said this, but I believe it was Pat Morita. |
RE: Drainage
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- Posted by bahia SF Bay Area (My Page) on
Sat, Jan 30, 10 at 12:17
Eric, I just wanted to let you know your sense of humor is just the thing first thing in the morning. I almost spewed my coffee laughing so hard... I'd enjoy your take on more of the topics, can you be persuaded to contribute more? How do you manage so easily to combine common sense with such sly humor? |
RE: Drainage
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| Our little house sits about 30 feet downhill on a terraced slope. About 70 years ago, when the previous owners moved the house to it's present location, there was a protective swale dug around the north side of the house, but that had long since silted in. Ordinarily, the yard collects water briefly, and then it drains away downhill to the south. But after heavy rains, or several days' worth of melting snow, the water seeping from the hill leaves us with a yard of black, heavy mud, and a sluggish commode for days at a time. (When the ground around the lateral lines is saturated and standing in two inches of water, there's no sense in trying to send more water down the pipes.) Since we've already diverted the greywater to the pecan orchard, and added new lines, all that's left is major dirtwork. We've contemplated replacing the original swale, and building retaining walls along with digging another swale further uphill to divert more water before it runs down into the yard, but hadn't done anything for fear of damaging the beautiful, mature Elms on that side of the house. A few years ago, I set 150 feet of 18" flashing to divert the worst of it away from the septic field, but we held off doing anything more. To us, it was worth putting up with a temporary inconvenience for the sake of those trees. Unfortunately, thanks to the ice storm this past weekend, we no longer have beautiful Elms, (just huge trunks minus 2/3rds of the original crown) so it looks like we're free to landscape and terrace at will. On the bright side, in addition to correcting the drainage issues, it looks like now is the time to add that walk in storm cellar and earth bermed greenhouse I've been dreaming about. In answer to your original question Ink, for us the ideal time to look at drainage is when the opportunity presents itself. :^/ |
RE: Drainage
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- Posted by bboy USDA 8 Sunset 5 WA (My Page) on
Tue, Feb 2, 10 at 18:13
| Rain gardens are being promoted and installed in my area. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Eco-friendly features at Edmonds PCC
RE: Drainage
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| Eric_OH: That may be, but if I planted to suit existing drainage I'd have to either spend a fortune watering plants daily all summer or grow nothing but annuals. My yard's existing conditions are that it's under several inches of water from December through February and dry as a bone from May through September. |
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