It looks like it could be used to create a fairly attractive edging. The biggest downside is that it is pretty well permanent so you better be pretty sure you have the shape of your beds the way you want them. At least with bricks or pavers you could shift them around in the future if needed. How much does this stuff cost per foot? You could do the same basic thing with your own forms, but that would be a bit more work. Does it save money over using bricks or pavers for edging? It looks like at least the same amount of work.

- Brent

Its about the same i think in costs, but a lot more accurate and quicker too i think.

It would be pretty hard to build your own forms like those wouldnt it?

Ta
S

I think around $3.00 per foot plus the concrete. It uses very little concrete to produce lots of edging as there is no base concrete underneath. Just pour it in and remove sides. Interesting.

No trailer park should be without it.

It must be a very exiting product to get you so psyched up to join a forum and tell all about it. And to go so far as to do the research to let us know how much it costs all the way over in the U.S., I never new that private citizens interested in landscape design in New Zealand used American dollars.

Here we go again.

More guerilla marketing. This place is going down hill. What happened to Spike?

Sneeky marketing? Yes!

Those of you who live in the warmer areas of the US should understand that any shallow concrete curb will be a great environment for bermuda grass. The grass will hide under it and then grow up through the hairline cracks in the curb. And without a stable concrete base, the curb will crack, .. a lot.

That said, forming for curb is not a big deal for DIY. I wouldn't consider paying $3 a foot for forms. In the graphic below I show a type of forms anyone could do. Drill a 7/16 hole through 2x4 or 2x6 lumber and use #3 rebar to hold it in position for the pour. In hard soil the rebar should be about 12 to 14 inches in length, and spaced about 3ft apart. In soft soil make the rebar about 18 inches. Put an expansion joint every 12 to 15 ft. Also cut a false joint across the curb every 8 to 24 inches to control where the cracks will appear. The curb will better stay in alignment over time if a rebar is embeded in the length of curb.

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More useful to me has been a concrete edge that will handle a small grade change. some of the detail to doing this are shown below.

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Ok. You busted me.

Im not actually trying to sell it at this stage.

I am just trying to establish the peoples reactions to this type of product in the U.S.

Canadians are very open to this new edging and are looking at supply. You americans are a harder bunch to convince!!

Sorry, I should have been more honest.

I would appreciate genuine comments as to what this product does for you against other edging and driveway/patio options.

Once again sorry for not being honest!

Cheers
Steve.

For $3 a linear foot I would expect somebody to come out and install it for me. For me to go with concrete edging like this it would have to be easier than installing bricks/pavers and/or significantly cheaper.

- Brent

Heaps quicker, more accurate with curves etc and very strong. It cannot step or move in frost areas or separate.

There has been a big revival in masonry in the last 10 years. There are lots and lots of products being introduced all of the time. The trend is fed by a general desire for more a look of traditional masonry craftsmanship.

Landscaping is always largely driven by the Smiths keeping up with the Jonses no matter where you are. That is not to say that it is driven by people trying to out do each other, but more about wanting to fit into the setting which they believe they belong to. This means that the cost of a product has to be in keeping with the budget of those using the aesthetic that it appeals to.

Aesthetics will take a back seat to function when something solves a problem that is otherwise more costly when you are dealing with people of limited means.

This product appears to be an aesthetic add on without a major problem solving function. The aesthetic is not a very high one and there is no problem solved by using it, so the cost of construction and is not going to make the difference.

I would suggest that you try to pair up your product with a more traditional masonry look to build up its aesthetic end.

If you can find a way to alter your product in such a way that it is functional in solving a problem, then you'll really be on your way.

Check out these pics.

Isn't this what you are meaning? The masonry look?

www.photobucket.com/albums/v238/crackerbuzz/P1010631Large.jpg
www.photobucket.com/albums/v238/crackerbuzz/P1010634Large.jpg
www.photobucket.com/albums/v238/crackerbuzz/P1010639Large.jpg

Rebar is linked ALL the way from one point to another to prevent breaking up of the edging so it HAS solved a problem in rugged climates like weed intrusion and frost heave. It has been tested in minus 30 degrees in Canada this season and hasnt moved an inch. It has to be be diamond cut to be moved or removed. There is no other system that does this.

Thanks

How does one post pictures in this forum?

Can anyone help?

Cheers.

You will be better off calling a curber like me and having me do it for 3 to 4 dollars a foot. Concrete and old lawn edging removed in that price.

Pick any design, not just the form shapes.
My mower style is actualy designed to keep weeds from blowing over the top.
I have slant mower and curb styles. We do full colored curbs not just the surface and offer stamp and stain packages as well.

For 3 dollars a foot for just the forms seems high. And the cement cost @ just 100 ft is about 30 cu. ft. About a yard of material or 5 heaping wheel barrows. So about 100 dollars more. Then you gotta buy the trowels and other finishing tools if you want a differant finish rollers color and stain..That can be 100 for the trowels and 100 for the stain.

I charge $50.00 per 100 ft to stain and use a high grade acrylic sealer made called diamond clear.

Conclusion is that you may be better off calling a contractor like me that might save you a lot of time money and energy.

Apluscurbing.com

Here is a link that might be useful: Spokane Wa

To post pictures from photobucket directly into a thread, one must copy the script in the box that says "HTML code."

Like this:
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(A chance to show off this year's Halloween pumpkins...)

I copied and pasted your links into my browser bar...went and looked at them...I was unimpressed with the product. Not aesthetically pleasing...and pricey. Oh, and hawking product undercover used to be a good way to get banned from this forum. I DO miss Spike.

melanie