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chueh_gw

hillside problem; cannot hold amendments

chueh
15 years ago

Starting last spring, I sowed wild flower seeds on the hillside right behind my house. I followed the instruction to make them germinate. When they only grew up to little seedlings, a heavy stormy rainfall washed them all off. Then, I sowed annual rye grass seeds to make more organic matter and could hold the soil better. However, they did not grow well, for the summer was hot. Earlier last fall, I tilled the hillside shallowly and amended compost and other organic fertilizers. I sowed much more wild flower seeds on the hill. I used erosion control blanket to hold the seeds from sliding down. None of the works I did worked. All the amendments and seeds still ran down to the bottom, where all the wild flowers have been cramped with all that good soil. The hillside still looks a red clay site, whereas the bottom of the hill looks a mess with gigantic leggy flower plants cramped together fighting for sunlight.

Would you please shed some light to go about some landscaping on the hillside with heavy hard red clay. I have a very limited budget though; I pretty much can only afford to buy seeds or plants without doing any other projects like retaining wall, buying boulders/rocks or installing something similar.

Thank you very much

Comments (12)

  • catkim
    15 years ago

    How high is the hill and how steep is the slope? I am surprised the erosion control blanket didn't help, but I would think you will need something with more significant root systems than wildflowers to be successful.

  • chueh
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    It's 1:1 slope. I did install the blanket from the very top to the very bottom. Perhaps not enough staples is the problem; I used a staple for every 15-17" square. However, it shouldn't be such a big difference between 1' and 15-17." I am just so curious about why all the soil and mulch on the hilldsides on the roads I have seen all perfectly stay but mine does not. Catkim is right about root systems. In fact, I do see those plants on slope of the side roads being already mature or at lease much bigger than my seedlings. However, I am surprised to see those light weight mulch on those slopes not running down or blown away. Even the mulch on my flower beds has been blown everywhere

  • catkim
    15 years ago

    I asked about the height of the slope because I wanted to suggest digging flat areas to plant larger shrubs, but this may not be a good idea in a very big, very steep, unstable slope. There are many slopes in my neighborhood and I've observed these 'planting basins' dug into the slope. Let's see if I can create a diagram:

    Slope profile->....../
    ........................../
    .....................__ (planting basin)
    .................../
    ................./
    ............__ (planting basin)
    ........../
    ........./

    Perhaps I'll take a walk this weekend and photograph some of the methods used to deal with this problem, if you or anyone is interested.

  • joepyeweed
    15 years ago

    Another good slope treatment is to terrace the slope as catkin describes.

    An easy way to terrace a slope is to to trench in some coir logs. The logs trap sediment and seed behind them, creating terraces.

  • chueh
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    Where can I get long coir logs? I have seen a lot of places use the method. I was actually thinking of doing it too, but I just had no idea how to to do it and where to find long logs. Catkin and joepyweed, esthetically, do I do a one horizontal logs cross the entire hill (it's big though. I probably cannot find logs that long), or do I make sections, or do I stagger the sections, or do I make zigzag patterns? Catkin, if you don't mind, would you please take some pictures in your neighborhood? Thanks.. And would you please explain a little bit more about "planting basin" you were mentioning?

  • ken_mce
    15 years ago

    I'm thinking you could spread a layer of seeds and compost, put a little straw on top, than stake down a sheet of burlap with wooden stakes or branches. Water and light would make it in past the burlap and straw pretty easy. Plants would grow out through the mesh easily. Over time the burlap, straw and sticks would rot away to nothing. By then the plants should be established enough to stand on their own.

  • catkim
    15 years ago

    I finally got the photos I promised for you. This slope was recently planted out. Irrigation, erosion control netting, plants set in small basins, groundcover to finish.
    {{gwi:10993}}

    You can see how there is a small level spot where the plant sits so the water doesn't simply flow past the roots on the way downhill:
    {{gwi:7368}}

    {{gwi:7369}}

  • chueh
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    Thank you so much Catkim for your promise and effort to help me. The hill looks nice, although there are probably more weeds as the greens than anything else. Everything balances out nicely between the green creeping stuff and the reddish-brownish spiky plant (what are they, by the way? Are they pretty good with clay soil?)

    The problem of my hill is that it is not growing much at all even with green creeping weeds. It's mostly red clay look

  • DYH
    15 years ago

    In my experience, it's difficult to seed a hill for all the reasons that you've experienced. We tried and tried to grow grass and finally turned our short slope into a huge mixed border/flower garden.

    Planting potted perennials, shrubs and ornamental grasses with roots will do more to hold the ground in place and survive. I create pockets to level out each spot as shown by Catkim's example. I know it sounds more expensive, but it's less likely to wash away and more likely to bloom and prosper for you in the long run.

    I'm assuming that you have full sun for this site? If so, you've got a great place for a butterfly/hummingbird garden. The majority of those plants that I use are deer resistant and drought tolerant (once established). That mix is the closest that I can think of to give you the wildflower look.

    Agastache
    Asclepias tuberosa (drought) or incarnata (moist)
    Echinacea
    Crocosmia
    lavender
    Nepeta
    rosemary
    oregano
    thyme
    bronze fennel

    Ornamental grasses like miscanthus and panicum are great.

    buddleia 'Pink Delight' is a prolific bloomer and almost evergreen for me in zone 7, cut back in late winter
    spirea 'Neon Flash' (leafs out early)
    lantana 'Ham and Eggs' (has to be cut back in spring, so it's not real attractive over the winter)
    caryopteris (like lantana)

    Cameron

    Here is a link that might be useful: lots of examples in my blog

  • petzold6596
    15 years ago

    Terracing is another option.

  • chueh
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    Thank you all. All good info. And Cameron, what a beautiful garden you have. I am so jealous!!!