Here is a closeup of the post notch.

After lots of research, the design has changed.
The beams are now 2x8's, running perpendicular from the house. The span between the post with the double 2x8 beams are longer (13') than the other direction (11'), so figure the larger boards should span the longer distance.
The joists are still 2x6 and now spanning the shorter distance of 11'. Separate 2x6 boards meet at the center post, butted together. Those meeting at the post are bolted thru the 6x6 post. This forms some support to racking, but I do plan on adding knee braces (not shown yet).
All 6 posts are attached to concrete using Simpson ABA66RZ metal post bases.
Appreciate any feedback on this latest Pergola design.

Notch the beams; it is much stronger. Keep in mind that one thing that happens with wood is it splits. If you bolt a beam to a post and it splits where the bolt is (10 years later when the wood has weakened and worn) the beam can suddenly drop down. (We don't know what other forces could be affecting it to cause a catastrophic failure ... a group of trouble-making teens teens, for example.) If the beam is resting in a notch it is likely to give a warning before a catastrophic failure occurs.

I'm not going to comment on your wood spec sizes. But I'm wondering about the triangular corner piece and the half mile long cantilevered seat. Is there going to be another support for the seat? Maybe you will just extend it to the next post.

Yardvaark,
I think i will notch the post, sounds like a good idea. How far deep should I notch, halfway the size of beam (1"), less or more?
What method/tools of notching do your suggest?
Oh, that long bench is existing, I just didn't bother drawing the supports underneath it. And that triangular corner is existing, a raise portion where flower pots go.
The overhead pergola does not attached to either the bench or corder.

Per the notching specs, about an inch sounds in the ball park. But it would depend on your material specs. Get some guidance on that from a reliable source ... tables or pros. My homespun notching would be cuts started with a circular saw (doing as much as possible) and finished with a hand saw, which might even be a pruning saw. I use a folding one for everything.

I don't see any feature of this structure designed to resist a lateral force.

weebles wobble but they don't fall down. Same can't be said for structures with inadequate lateral bracing as pls8xx mentioned. There's no Simpson post base I'd trust for the job. One of the big national kit builders, their post base is a sleeve that comes up the post a couple feet and lags to the decking at multiple points. That or significant embedment is your best bet,