Shop Products
Houzz Logo Print
katrina_ellen

Can you make lemonade out of lemons?

katrina_ellen
11 years ago

I have never seen a house like mine on this forum, but here goes. You can see the abandoned house to the left of me with its cracking driveway, but lets ignore that. Those are yew bushes that have probably been there since the house was built in 1958. I cut them down by 1/3 in the spring. The others are boxwoods, and when I moved in there were spirea bushes in front of them. Slow growing boxwood with fast growing spirea. It wasn't a good partnership so out they came. I expanded the bed by a foot this summer, and planted grasses more as place holders than anything else. I planted a cornelian cherry bush form tree as you can see - more as screening because its a neighborhood where houses are close together and I wanted some privacy. Probably not the best place for it esthetically. I am open to all ideas and would consider those that are not too cost prohibitive for me. The deck to me gives it a trailer park ambiance, do you have any suggestions to improve the look? If I could keep whats already there and have it look good that would be ideal. Should I expand the bed? Plant another tree? I really need help as you can see. I want it to look its best. Thanks for any advice, ideas you may have, I truly appreciate it.

{{gwi:36034}}

{{gwi:47615}}

Comments (79)

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    Katrina, I posted before seeing your recent additions. I don't think the tree position is far enough from target to be concerned about because it only means adapting the groundcover bed a little farther out and into a slightly large circle. There's no harm in doing that.

    In your line of 7 "bushes", I'd remove the one that is at the corner of the deck... third from left. The easiest way is to cut it off at ground level (with a folding pruning saw) and paint the cut ends (with a throw away paint brush or similar) with straight, undiluted herbicide, to keep the roots from sprouting new growth. This is much easier than digging out the roots of an established shrub. The others must be cut back severely and regrown to their new shape, but for that I'd wait for end of winter or early spring (before new growth.) It's too late in the year to encourage new growth.

    While using 'Sky pencil' Holly as a screen would work as a privacy barrier, I don't think it would add near the charming touch that a lattice screen, with a blooming vine on it, would add.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Yardvaark, I see what you mean about that bush on the corner of the deck. In your drawing, you have the three boxwoods to the right of that bush with no planting in front of them, with a straight line of mulch going underneath them. I am thinking I need to move the grasses out of there and remove that curving line under the bushes to make it a straight line, except for the circle curve around the bush at the decks entrance. Hope that makes sense. I am overseeding my lawn and want to include that curved area of mulch in the seeding.
    I missed the summer pruning of the boxwoods and thats why they are messy right now, but it works out because theres a little more growth inbetween now. I will wait for early spring - that seems to be safest around here.
    Thanks for the input on the screen. I do think it adds to the cottage feel.
    I am going to take out that bush - thanks for the "how-to" description. I put the tree a little further out because of its spread, so I'm glad it will work according to plan. And thanks again for your help. I am going to post a picture when the bush is cut down.

  • TomNorthJersey
    11 years ago

    I was looking through HD's website for a fence project and found these. There are some in different shapes and sizes. No concrete. Just a sledge hammer and some elbow grease. Groundmaster 30 in. Gray Post-GM-30 at The Home Depot

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Tom - Thank You!!! That looks perfect!
    Yardvaark-
    Did I cut out enough ground cover area, or do I need to go bigger - I went conservative as I can always add to it.
    For the groundcover, I saw a dwarf plumbago that gets about 12 inches tall - do you think that would be too tall? The bush is getting cut down next, I didn't have time to do it yet.
    Thanks!
    {{gwi:47622}}
    {{gwi:47623}}

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Another thought for the ground cover area. Wondering if I should mix up the types of cover - such as a low growing juniper that gets 1' to 2' towards the back, something like the dwarf plumbego, and then very low growing ground cover in the front. What do you think?

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    YOu already have a backdrop (the bushes) and skirt around the tree for added interest. I would keep the groundcover simple (a single variety) and low (6" - 10" ht.) In a sense, it's acting as a secondary "white space" foil that links plants but does not compete with them. Because the tree is a little farther from the house, I think I'd expand the groundcover bed a little. As it is, the tree is a little close to the edge. It should not look like it's in danger of toppling out of the island.

    Regarding the bed for color, I'd use it more in a way that encircles and punctuates the 'sentry' shrub at the entrance to your deck, rather than as a small, linear "hedge" that will be in front of another small, linear hedge (where the front one would obscure the back one.) If you move it to around the larger (end) shrub, and the color itself is not too tall, these won't seem to be in competition with one another.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Yardvaark,
    Thanks once again, I was thinking by your drawing it needed to start wrapping around in the vincinity of the 2nd boxwood and further out from the tree, but wanted to double check with you.
    I'm not sure what you are saying about the color, what I understand is that the groundcover should compliment the planting around the sentry shrub, not complete with it? Will post after the two areas are dug out and the corner shrub is gone.
    Thank you SO much for all your help!!!!!

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    Sorry. By "color" I meant the seasonal color (which might be annuals or perennials) in the small bed around the shrub next to the driveway. It doesn't imply, either, that other plantings shouldn't, or can't be colorful. If the groundcover blooms it will obviously be colorful at that time, but its primary job it not so much to be attention-grabbing (by using color) as it is to serenely knit other components together. The small bed is supposed to be colorfully attention-grabbing, making sure that the route to the entrance is noticed.

    By the way, I forgot to mention earlier that it's shaping up pretty well.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Thanks Yard, and thanks for explaining the concept. The groundcover choice was what I couldn't decide on because its a large part of it. I'm going to do vinca minor periwinkle - I think it will serve that purpose.

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    If Vinca minor grows well in your area, I think it would be a fine choice. It's a combination of good height, leaf sheen, interest and manageability. (I would not say same about V. major!) Have fun!

    One more thing, you will probably need to add another plant--probably perennial (like daylilies or Iris or something along those lines... whatever strikes your fancy and accepts the conditions and is about 30" height since it will appear behind the Heuchera)-- in the space up against the house... between deck and shrubs to the left. While this originally would have been part of the planting bed bed that goes below the tree, because the tree has moved forward, there's now a vacant space behind. In my original drawing I'm taking the plant material below the tree--you're using Heuchera--all the way back to the house. Now that the tree is farther forward, there can be something else (separately) filling in this void. Hope that makes sense.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    I see what you mean, when you break it down to shapes you can see it better. I actually have an ornamental grass in that area that hasn't grown to full size, but I am going to take that out, I think the daylilies or iris would look good. Will have to have a look at whats out there. I've talked to a few people here who have said as long as the ground isn't frozen here they have planted sucessfully.
    Thanks once again!!! I hope to have the groundcover area dug out and planted by the end of the week.

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    "I've talked to a few people here who have said as long as the ground isn't frozen here they have planted successfully." That was my experience in the Midwest and I came to far prefer Fall planting over doing it in the Spring. (It's hard to think of frozen ground when it's in the eighties and still fairly humid here!)

    If you want to make it a combo situation, the vertical foliage of 'Caesar's Brother' Siberian Iris as a backdrop with daylilies in front of it looks pretty good. (I'm still just talking about the one spot I've shown in blue above.)

    Another thought occurred to me that you might wish to put the tree on the other side of the obstructing underground stump and get it closer to the house. You can evaluate if it's possible. I'm not saying it's not workable where it is, just that the overall scene would be improved by getting it closer. If you plain don't want to for whatever reason, that's okay as you're making it workable with other adjustments.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Yard, I just took a look at that Caesars Brother Iris online, that is gorgeous. I have been thinking about Iris because it fits so well with a cottage look. I've seen those tall ones in yards and always thought they were beautiful, even when they are not flowering.
    About the tree, I am concerned about its close proximity to the stump - its probably 2' from the root ball, but the tree gets as wide as it is tall - which is 20', and right now it is planted about 13' from the house, so I figure at the distance it is at now I am still going to have to prune it to keep it away from the house. I was hoping the roots would find their way around the stump. I really don't want to replace the tree, I really like dogwood trees, but what do you think about the distance from the stump and then the distance it is from the house?

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    'Caesar's Brother' is an old award winner that is beautiful, very easy to grow and performs well under many conditions. When out of bloom, the vertical foliage is very handsome.

    I would not worry about the old stump at all. As long as the new tree is in soil and has access to soil, it will not care that an old stump is nearby.

    The tree could actually be much closer to the house than 13'. It's not a maintenance problem as long as the trunks stay clear of the wall and eaves. Since they're growing primarily upright, not horizontally, it's easy for them to conform to such a configuration. (Even if they were as close as 5'.) The canopy will be above the eaves. The portion of the canopy that allows the silhouette of the house to fit behind it, is carved away and is not visible from the front and is unnoticed otherwise. It's not difficult to maintain as the carved away portion is in its own shade, so there's little or no re-growth once a branch is removed. What growth occurs at the lower canopy edges would be easily manageable for a small, flowering tree. Since your house is not the source of light that encourages growth of the tree canopy, most growth will be in the opposite direction, upward, toward the sun.

    (My picture is only saying how to handle the tree, not where you should place it.)

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Yard, here is the groundcover area dug out. How about the roots of the tree? I have always heard to keep it away from close proximity to the house to prevent foundation damage. I don't know much about pruning and don't know if I could shape it to have it look good. I was reading a pruning website and he recommended only to prune a tree when its young, when its older, only prune anything that is dead. You seem very knowledgeable, but there is always dissenting opinions. If I do move it, would it be advisable to do it now? I am thinking I could move it back to about 10', but would that be enough? Thanks Yard!


    {{gwi:47625}}

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Oh Drat Yard, I'm going to move it. I want to get it right. Tommorrow I will have time to do it. Thanks for bringing it up, since everything is dug out, it will be pretty easy.

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    Ha! I have been in the same boat. Many times I've moved something just a foot or two or even 6". It's only bad when there are leaves on the plant and the root ball falls apart.

    The reason for enlarging the bed, which you've done a good job of, was to get the tree closer to it's center so that proportions of elements look balanced. Changing the tree location (the theoretical center) might beg shrinking the bed a LITTLE. But at this point, I wouldn't even think about. It could happen next spring (if it needs to happen at all) and I'm not sure from photos if it does. I'm just saying it's a possibility for later.

    I'll show you what I now think it a good location now, and you decide if it's worth doing. There is some forgiveness in landscaping and I can tell that either way you go--move the tree or not-- you can and will make the scene come together in a positive way.

    (If you can't read my writing, it says "ideal now" and "range of acceptability")

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Yard-I know it would bother me if I didn't move it, so here goes, I am going to try and get it into the sweet spot, which is about 10' out. What do you think about the corner boxwood now, do you think it still needs to go? I thought about cutting it down before I move the tree so I can have a better look at the spot. I'm going to try and get the tree moved, along with the huechera and the bush removed, depending on if you still think it needs to go, by the weekend and post another shot. I am wondering if I should plant the groundcover as well, or would it be better to have you take a look at the area after the move before planting? Again, thanks for all your help, I sure couldn't do this without your expertise! Thanks for hanging in there!

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    I've always thought the corner boxwood needed to go away and have not changed my thoughts on it. Cutting it down to get out of the way would be fine. Remember, if you cut at ground level and treat surface of the fresh-cut root "stump" (though there won't be a stump sticking up) with undiluted herbicide, it will not come back.

    It's fine to plant the ground cover. Stay clear (2') of the front bed edge in case it needs to shrink later, and then you won't need to move any GC plants. If the bed doesn't shrink, the plants will still grow toward the edge and cover it. It will just take a little longer for them to get there. No need to get closer than 2' to shrubs, too.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Yard, I got a little carried away with the GC area. I learned how to make a circle, so I did that and reseeded the bald spot with grass. I think it may be a bit small now, but I wanted to plant grass before it got too cold. What do you think? I can enlarge it a bit in the spring if it looks a bit small. You said GC is just suppossed to unite the plantings and I think I was making it a feature instead. The corner bush is cut down and that made a big difference. Its kind of hard to see the tree, but I planted it about 3' back from the previous spot. Should I grow the GC under the yews and back in the corner of the deck and house? I thought in the spring after the lattice screen is in I can reassess the GC area.
    Also, do you have any suggestions for the sentry shrub planting, which I still need to cut an area for? I thought maybe something about 18 inches tall that doesn't spread very wide since it will be a small area.
    Thanks!!!
    {{gwi:47626}}

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Heres a side view.

    {{gwi:47627}}

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    The groundcover should/can be a feature, but we need to be mindful of proportions and balance at all times. I think you're making progress. The tree looks better there. I can visualize it as "belonging" to the house and being a part of the house's "accessories". I'll give you a pat on the back for your dedication! It looks to me like you might be returning a little bit too much bed back to grass. You might take the bed to the vicinity of the red line I'm showing in the photo. It will be easy enough to scratch out newly sprouted grass where you don't want it, add just a few more Vincas and cover the area with mulch.

    Don't grow Vinca under Yews. In the Spring when you re-define the shape of the Yews, they'll begin developing a new profile. (You'll need to learn the correct shapes to prune shrubs so that the lower foliage doesn't disappear from lack of light. The upper portion should not shade the lower portion.) The Vinca will MEET the Yew, not go under it.

    Even though the shrubs are still high (but don't cut 'til Spring) the overall picture of the house has it looking much less "engulfed" with the corner-of-the-deck shrub removed.

    18" seems like a good height around the sentry shrub. If you went went with a shrub, Potentilla comes to mind. If a perennial, 'Stella d'Oro' daylily and 'Rozanne' Geranium come to mind but there would be other things that would work. It's an opportunity for you to use something that spins YOUR beany. Maybe someone else has some suggestions.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Yard,
    In your initial drawing the GC area is a circle shape, if I extend it like that it will be more of an egg shape. Does that matter? I really want to get the GC area right before I go on, its kind of driving me crazy. Thanks again!

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    It is circular. If it looks egg-shaped, it's because there's room to misinterpret single photos because of the angle of view or because my drawing on them is imperfect. When the screen happens, the arc of the bed would blend to meet it. But that can happen when the screen happens.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    What do you think? Its easy right now to adjust it. Thanks!!!

    {{gwi:47628}}
    {{gwi:47629}}

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    Looks quite darn good!

    You might check that cat. He doesn't seem to have moved in quite a while :-)

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Fantastic! Finally got there. Now I can start on the sentry shrub area. That will be about all I can do til early spring, except for making the lattice screen. I really like the color of the rozanne geranium and I found where they still have it.
    Yes, that is the only cat I have - so I am not a crazy cat lady!
    Thanks for your help again!!!

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    Congrats and you're welcome. Nice that you found 'Rozanne'!

    In the Spring, before new growth occurs, you'll want to cut the shrubs severely in order to direct their new growth into the places where it's needed. (Dead of Winter until new growth occurs is your window of opportunity. The longer you wait, the less time you must look at brutally cut shrubs!) They need to fill in at the bottom and connect to one another at the sides, so there won't be any cutting in those places. Removing upper portions of the plants helps to expose the lower portions to more light. As the hedges grow, subsequent cuts are only to refine the overall shape until you get to the final outline that you will maintain from then on.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    That really is drastic. I'm glad you diagrammed it, I wasn't thinking so low for the 1st cut. I'm planning on reading up about pruning so I can do it properly. I've just taken the electric shears in the past and tried to make a rounded form on the boxwoods, so I get what you mean about the bottom being somewhat wider than the top to let in light. Is it safe to cut in the dead of winter in zone 5? We have a lot of warming up a bit and then getting super cold during the month of March . Thanks again for all your help, I am looking forward to how its going to look next year.

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    You were probably thinking that the first cut would be more where the final cut would be. There is only about one foot of difference between the two and it would be better for you if it was made up of new, fresh growth rather than stubs that you must fight with when pruning later. It needs to be drastic to help overcome the existing shape and loss of foliage at the bottom of shrubs. It will not want to grow there unless you force it some. Shears will not work initially. You'll need loppers or a folding saw. I'm not saying you must cut mid-winter... only that you can... safely. I like to cut right before growth so I don't have to look at cuts all that long. But don't wait until after the spring flush of growth or you'll be cutting off and throwing away a lot of growth energy of which you will only get back a much lesser percentage. It's better to bite the bullet up front than it is to discover that you should have gone lower, but then the growth energy has been much dissipated.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    You're right, thats where I was thinking, but I see it wouldn't account for the growth. Well this ought to be interesting.
    For the sentry shrub planting I ended up with Cosmic Evolution Coreopsis. I liked the neat growing habit of it, and the color is nice too. It looks like it is suppossed to be planted in a half circle around the bush, although it won't be a complete half circle because of the driveway, but just create a curve I believe. Thanks again for hanging in there with all my questions!

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    Coreopsis will be nice.

    I'm sure you understand that the shrubs are trimmed wider at the base in all visible directions so that the front face has the same profile as the end of the hedge (not undercut.) At the back where it won't be seen, it can be cut straight vertical.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    When you say the front face should have the same profile as the end of the hedge, does that mean taper the top narrower on the side of the hedge as well? Your diagram for the cutting is showing that I believe. On the yews should I follow the lines you have drawn? they both are tapering downward on the inside edges for the first cut, like they are cut seperately instead of straight across like the line you show on the boxwoods. Thanks!

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    "does that mean taper the top narrower on the side of the hedge as well?" It means taper the FRONT FACE narrower as it ascends; wider as it descends.

    You'll note that the boxwoods and the yews are not really planted in the right place. But they're close enough so it would be absurd to move them. The way to "massage" them into the right place is with pruning. Note that we're shifting the Yews to the right a bit as they overhang the outside (left) wall of the house. (We're trying to balance them with the window.) Since you removed the boxwood that was at the corner of the deck, the nearest one remaining isn't quite close enough to the corner so we'll shift it left. (We're not really ready to get out the measuring tape and strive for absolute perfection. Instead, we're trying to "position" plants--adjust by pruning--well enough to please the average eye. Follow my lines and you'll be fine.) Remember to give the plants fertilizer at the spring flush of growth to take as much advantage of the pop of growth as you can. Because of the plants' fully developed root system and energy stored there, you'll get much more growth after cutting than would be typical during a regular growth spurt. The plant will try to replace lost foliage. There are no guarantees, but I wouldn't be surprised if the hedge was at, or near the final height by the end of the first growing season.

    While you bone up on "pruning" keep in mind that the vast majority of it is written from a perspective of gardening (what the plant wants), and not from a perspective of landscaping... what the overall scene wants. As long as you prune within the large window of opportunity mentioned earlier, you'll be fine. You might want to study up on sculpture, as that's what you'll be doing. In my sketch I showed curving sides (and imagine a curving face) to the hedges. If you prefer or if you want it to be easier, you can make it perfectly straight (angled, not pure vertical) for a crisp, sharp look. I like the curves with your house, but either would work. As you trim, use a house feature (like a siding board or the deck) as a visual guide to help you keep the hedge level and straight.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Heres a picture of the yews before I cut them last March. I am understanding that you mean that by pruning them as described, when the new growth fills in, I will just keep the new growth longer when I trim on the sides that need to be shifted? Thanks for the description, that really helps me to know what the goal is.
    {{gwi:47630}}

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    Those yews were monsters!

    That's right. Most of the new growth that occurs in the direction you are shifting the plant gets to remain. You'll just be touching it up along the way to the final destination in order to even it out.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Thanks Yard, I am going to follow the lines you drew, I see the first cut on the left side of the yews cuts further to the right. So I am assuming I do the 2nd cut when the bushes grow to the height of the 2nd line, is that right? I got a couple books on pruning from the library so I can educate myself. Thanks so much for your help, I truly appreciate it.

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    It's a little hard to show everything in a single drawing so well that it explains itself. The first cut is important in kicking off the re-shaping effort. The final cut is the end goal. But the line I'm showing in between those two represents tidying up and evening-out that occurs along the way. It could actually be more than a single cut. The intermediary cutting helps the hedge fill in any holes and stay thick and full. If, for example, it grew 6" height since the first cut, you might cut that new growth back 50% and allow 3" to remain. Each cutting is an opportunity to strive toward your vision of perfection in shaping the hedge.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Yard-I have one more question about the first cut, on the face front, do I cut it to taper at the top on the first cut, or start doing that just with the growth after the initial pruning? I think I have everything pretty clear except for that. Thanks again!

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    I think the answer is "Yes, but...." Technically, you'd begin to create the taper at the onset. But since you're cutting fairly low on the plant, it's down in an area where most of what you need to be tapering is presently a void, which can't be cut. (The view is a cross-section as it would be seen from the end of the hedge.)

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Thanks, I will have to see what is there when I start cutting back. I will post another pic when I make some more progress, either the lattice screen or the pruning in late winter. My brother said he would make the lattice screen for me after he is done with his Halloween project. Again, thank you for the design and for all the help to do it!!!

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    You're welcome! That you were eager, enthusiastic and thankful made it a positive experience!

  • dianne0712
    11 years ago

    Hi! I'm here to throw a spanner into the works!
    First, stain your deck. Do not paint! You will be in for a nightmare. (I'm an interior designer. Trust me on this) You can choose an opaque stain, but I prefer semi-transparent unless you are trying to cover flaws. Stains come in many different colours and read like paint. I am not a big fan of wood coloured stains, but a taupe or grey would be beautiful. Paint your shutters a deeper colour. Paint your door a brighter colour; it's lost behind the screen. You can paint a vinyl house, but you need awesome prep and the right paint.
    In terms of planting, I say go big or go home. I would put a line of hydrangeas right along your property line , right to the street, to hide the property to your left (looking at the picture). I would the plant a large triangle of scarlet carpet roses running from the hydrangeas and narrowing to your driveway. It doesn't need to be straight sided, you can curve it, just don't keep it all the same depth. You really don't need a front lawn at all with a small house and yard like that. The tree is in the right place now. Add some more bushes because right now your house is very horizontally linear and more irregular plantings will de-emphasize that, which is what I think is bothering you. The last thing you need is to reinforce all those squat horizontal lines. You need undulating heights in your plantings. Try lamium for a great low growing groundcover. It will bloom in Spring and have variegated leaves the rest of the time. Sorry. I just had to speak up. No lawn at all. Trust me.

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    11 years ago

    diane0712, I'm interested in your experience with stain vs. paint. You speak with confidence about it, but my experience has it that stain is not what it's cracked up to be. I prefer paint over stain and think it looks better as well as lasts longer. Nothing I've ever painted outside I would consider a "nightmare". To the contrary, paint seems to last quite a while. I guess that speaks to its popularity as the de facto standard coating for houses. I think that degradation of stain is less noticeable as it ages, but I don't think it actually lasts or protects longer. Maybe someone knows of a study that scientifically compares the two.

    As far as the house being "very horizontally linear" I'm not seeing that and think it's not the case. The house looks barely 25' wide, seems decently proportioned and it's only blank space, small. When the tree grows, it will do away with that. I'm not seeing all these things that need hiding or de-emphasized.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    diane - thanks for your comment. I actually have heard the same thing regarding paint vs stain, so I will have to get more info. on that. Thanks for the caution.
    Regarding the door and shutters - I have a replacement door stored in the garage because my new door warped inside of a year - and I was going to paint it BM Homestead Green - which is lighter and more aqua after the door gets replaced. I don't know why someone would put a brownish red roof on a white house but they did, so I feel like they fight each other. The shutters were already painted that color which is SW camelback. I have a detached garage with the same roof and siding, and I picked a yellowish cream garage door - probably should have gone with white. So to connect it with the house I left the shutters their goldish color. I painted the door its current color because its a richer color to corrdinate with the roof. Do you have any suggestions for the door and shutter color? When the door gets replaced I am going to get a new screen door because that one is not in very good shape - I thought I would get one with a white frame. I really like the BM Homestead Green for the door, can you suggest a shutter color that would look good with it and still coordinate the garage to the house?
    What you suggest for landscaping sounds lovely, but I really am not ready for that, and I love the simpler design that Yard created. I work a lot of hours so simpler is better for me. I see a lot of yards that are all garden and they really are beautiful, but I like the idea of just mowing over grass for my needs. I aso prefer a more "woodsy" look, to a lot of flowers, even though they go with the cottage look, I think a flowering vine, a good window box and the flowers around the entry shrub give enough blooms to go with a cottage look.
    I would love to hear back about the door and shutter colors if you have any suggestions. Thanks again!

  • cyn427 (z. 7, N. VA)
    11 years ago

    Katrina, jumping in here to say I think your house is cute, too and the improved landscaping is/will be wonderful. I have one suggestion that has nothing to do with plants- get a larger light fixture for the front door. Something with more presence will make a huge difference for relatively few dollars!

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    cyn - it's funny I never noticed that before. I like the fixture up close, its kind of a nautical style, but you are so right, a larger one would give a better look. Thanks for that suggestion! I love those inexpensive fixes that make a difference.

  • pixy306
    11 years ago

    I'm excited to see the yews after you trim them! Nice work!

  • dianne0712
    11 years ago

    When I do outside spaces I use oil based semi-transparent stain. Stain seeps into the wood, paint sits on top. Oil has a profound affect on the wearability of the stain, latex tends to peel. I have used all 3 and there is no comparison, and since I need to make sure things are done right for my clients I have been very thorough.
    Since you bought the rich blue for your shutters, how about the wow of some orange galliarda in front of the shrubs lining the porch? Spreaders but not invasive, bloom all summer into late fall. No one will even notice your neighbour.

  • katrina_ellen
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    I have been looking at Cabots deck stains. I think they are suppossed to be pretty good. I will have to wait till spring for that though, its too late in the year here. I have been dealing with strep throat and out of commission last week, but I will post a picture of the new color on the other link when I take a picture.
    I had the galliarda in my garden at my old house - I had a larger space for a garden and a variety of perrenials and they really stood out, but they popped up in places I didn't want them. I will have to take another look when everything fills in, in the spring. Orange does look great with blue, but, now I have burgundy coral bells, vinca minor that blooms periwinkle, and coreopsis that changes from white petals with gold centers, to white with magenta petals later in the season. I have got compliments from a couple neighbors about the new door and shutter color, will post a picture soon.