1. Kikuyu grass, which has taken over about 1/3 of the yard.
2. A swale in the front yard, with a drain about 8 inches below where the soil meets the house (lucky they didn't bury the weepscreed). We also have a somewhat bumpy groundlevel. The edge of the pad drains toward the house, and part of that edge is higher than the rest, about 4 inches higher. We would like a somewhat more level and smoother grade.
3. Irrigation where we have plenty of water pressure and easily enough valves, but odd zoning an sprinkler locations. The irrigation appears to have been put in during three separate phases. Some areas are not watered well. Parts of the lawn have much more shade than others.

We have spoken to a couple of landscapers. For about 3500 square feet, they have recommended killing the lawn (turflon for the kikuyu grass), removing it, doing some regrading, and putting in sod. They had different recommendations regarding irrigation. One wants to adjust as necessary. The other wants to rip out all pvc from the valves and start over. Estimates range from $18-22,000.

Are there realistic options to fix this less intrusively? For example, use seed instead of sod, separate individual sprinkler valves onto separate zones, smooth out the bumpiness with mulch or manure instead of cutting off the top layer.

What info would you need? I have seen some quite detailed posts here. Aside from looking at our lawn, we have a big dog that likes to play fetch.

It's dark now, but I'll get pictures and more data tomorrow.

We are considering trimming the high point down by 4-6 inches, so that the lawn is comparatively more level. Left to right the front lawn is about 110 feet. It is 20-25 feet wide on the section next to the house.

So, part 1 is, should we simply trim down the higher part. There are some roots from the nearby trees which are visible. Some of the roots are 3-4 inches.

Part 2 is, the surface of the grass is currently bumpy. We could do an assortment of things to try to level that. Removing all the current grass and putting in sod would do it. So would removing the current grass and seeding. Not sure about trying to kill just the kikuyu grass and putting in some soil, mulch, manure, etc.

How did you ascertain the 1/8" per foot slope? That's about half the minimum slope necessary for a grassed area. It would be good to know exactly how much higher the pool deck is than the drive at their points closest to one another. If you have a line level and could measure this, it would be helpful. (Run the line level and measure the vertical drop at each end. Subtract the shorter measurement from the longer.) Does ponding occur somewhere along the drainage route? I'm wondering why there is a catch basin and buried drain pipe when It appears that surface drainage would work. How does the pipe terminate?

What you're calling the "high point" does not appear as a hump. Are you describing the linear ridge-like feature, as opposed to a "point"?

Grade-wise, what is happening on the other side of the fence? Is any water draining from your yard to the other side of the fence, or from there to your yard?

What type of lawn grass do you have? Also, where are you and what's the climate like?

Generally, when a lawn is bumpy, one uses topsoil or sand to fill in the small depressions--not to change the grade--just to make it smooth to walk on. We can come back to this after figuring out what the problems are.

Adjusting the irrigation versus re-doing piping will boil down to how many adjustments are required. It depends on adding up the cost of each method and comparing the two. If the "adjustments" cost almost as much as the "re-do" it may be better to go with the latter. It's likely, though, that you wouldn't be able to discover the cost of adjustments until the process of doing them was underway. Maybe you can get a ball-park estimate on it first.

The neighborhood was done as cut and fill. Pads are distinct, and in this case it goes to the fence. Then it drops at a 45 degree angle to the street.

The planter has separate plants and irrigation, but no stone/edging, etc. in the current configuration.

"It looks like grass goes to the fence, or nearly."

The planters are about 4 feet wide, but it varies. The boundary is wavy.

"Does the word "drain" in the photo represent its actual location?"

Yes.

"I take it then that the stated measurements are vertical, not horizontal ... ?"

The lawn at the edge of the house is 4 inches higher than the drain. At the ridge toward the fence, it is 11.5 inches higher than the drain. Yes, vertical differences.

"How did you ascertain the 1/8" per foot slope? That's about half the minimum slope necessary for a grassed area."

With a 6 foot level, a tape measure, and a plumb line. It's consistent with the 4 inch difference in lawn height over 32 feet where the lawn meets the house.

"It would be good to know exactly how much higher the pool deck is than the drive at their points closest to one another."

I think the difference is 15 inches over a distance of 112 feet. I can try checking in the daylight.

"Does ponding occur somewhere along the drainage route? I'm wondering why there is a catch basin and buried drain pipe when It appears that surface drainage would work. How does the pipe terminate?"

We sometimes get 6 inches of rain an hour. Then we get some ponding. Regular 1-2 inches and hour, no ponding.

"What you're calling the "high point" does not appear as a hump. Are you describing the linear ridge-like feature, as opposed to a "point"?"

It's a ridge, about 30 feet long.

"Grade-wise, what is happening on the other side of the fence? Is any water draining from your yard to the other side of the fence, or from there to your yard?"

45 degree drop off to the street. That's why the developer made sure to send water from the pad either along the pad or toward the house. Otherwise, there would be erosion.

"What type of lawn grass do you have?"

Marathon 1. Invaded by kikuyu, and a little crabgrass.

" Also, where are you and what's the climate like?"

Calabasas CA. Zone 10b. Almost never frosts. Never freezes. Dry and in the mid 90s in the hottest part of summer. More typically around a high of 80. Coastal fog much of the year in the mornings.

What you call the "planter" would be the planting or landscape bed. Usually, "planter" means a large constructed or manufactured container for plants.

"We sometimes get 6 inches of rain an hour. Then we get some ponding." Could you indicate with circles on the plan where ponding occurs?

What's needed first is the exact elevation difference between points "A" and "B" (indicated by the blue line in my drawing.) Using a carpenters level will not be accurate enough. You need to obtain a LINE LEVEL from Home Depot, Lowe's or Hardware store. (Will be with measuring or with mason's tools. A cheap, plastic one will be less than $5.) Also get a small amount of mason's twine on which to hang the line level. You could use string if it's strong enough, or fishing line. See the diagram on how to set it up. You can tie the line to anything so long as it ends up tight (non-sagging) and level. You could attach it to a concrete block, if you have one, setting on the pool deck ... and your car bumper on the driveway. But make sure it's exactly tight and level before taking the vertical measurement readings.

Please provide a picture that shows the area within the yellow triangle taken from approximately where the orange square is located.

That difference is 11.5 inches. the distance is 78 feet. This is consistent with the county post-grading survey, which shows less than 2 feet of grade on the whole front yard. It is also consistent with neighboring lots, most of which have required some work on drainage or grade because the developer didn't do it right.

We had to redo the back yard because of these problems, and it's now fine. So,please believe me when I say an average of 1/8 inch per foot from left to right.

While ponding is rare, when it occurs, it is where the word "drainage" is at on the map. There is a downspout at the corner of the house which empties onto the lawn and probably contributes to ponding during very heavy rains. We may tie it to the lawn drainage while doing work on the lawn.

As you get closer to the driveway at the right of the picture, the lawn is flatter. The curb along the driveway has an opening at point B, which apparently allows water from the driveway to do down the nearby lawn drain.

When ponding occurs, does the pond include the drain/catch basin location?

Is the buried drain pipe 4"?

The lowest point is the catch basin near the driveway. It is the circle where the drain pipe makes a 90 degree turn.

"When ponding occurs, does the pond include the drain/catch basin location?"

The silver stake is at the drain next to the house. The photo is taken standing next to the drain by the driveway.

No.

"Is the buried drain pipe 4"?"

I think so. The output is 4"

In the photo, the silver stake is at the drain next to the house. The photo is taken from the other drain by the driveway.

Back to your original question of lowering the bermed ridge a few inches ... as long as not so much that it will alter the general drainage scheme, I can't see that it will hurt anything. The large tree roots, may be an impediment or prevent your doing it. It depends on how these are situated. But why do you want to make the yard more level in this way? I'm trying to figure out what you gain by it. I don't think you need all that much berm, but what do you gain by lowering it? It's not prime walking space and you wouldn't want to end up with too large of a gap below the fence.

While I won't defend the approach of the developer, the water from the lawn goes in at the two basins on the dotted line and then goes out to the street, which has curbs and storm drains. Thus, not much erosion potential.

The surface ponding occurs because the downspout at the corner of the house currently sends a lot of water across the surface of the lawn (large blue line). The grade isn't quite uniform and a tree root slows the left to right drainage at the surface because it creates a slight bump.

I doubt we would get ponding if we didn't have a large portion of the roof emptying rain onto the front yard.

Surface water flow is now marked with blue arrows.

We like to play fetch in that section of the yard. If you add in the driveway and the hillside which is not in the picture, you can get about a 150 foot throw. Our current hope is to have a more level lawn with about a 3-4 inch step up to where the planters are.

The ponding sound as if it occurs only during the storm but does not persist after. I wouldn't consider it to be an issue worthy of much attention unless the house was threatened. But it doesn't sound like it is. If that were to change in the future, then you might need to look into increasing the size of the buried pipe

Hopefully, someone will advise you on how to control or eliminate Kikuyu grass. I'm not familiar with it.

See if you can get, or find out where to get Marathon seed from Saddleback Supply: 800-286-7263. Marathon is a trade named dwarf tall fescue blend. If you can't locate some, you may be satisfied with another competing variety of dwarf tall fescue. You'll need to do a little research to see what's available and if its characteristics will be acceptable to you. If you can obtain seed, you can grow a lawn from it, and with fescue the cool season--now--is the time to do it. As I mentioned before, when the yard is bumpy, it is usually sand that's used to fill in the depressions and smooth it out. But really, anything like dirt will work. Sand is the easiest to use and doesn't decompose ... requiring touching up later. But touching up is a relatively minor issue.

Each irrigation valve is one zone. The objective would be to have one zone providing water for plants with like watering requirements. I wouldn't know how much work you need done in order to have that happen, but you should be able to get an irrigation specialist to provide a ball-park estimate and then work through the system accomplishing your objectives. I'd at least explore the reconfigure and adapt option before doing a complete rebuild. You may need to provide some leeway as sometimes pinpointing a price for work like that can be harder than the work itself. If you require an exact price, the bid might be higher in order to cover possible contingencies. If it were my yard, I would create a very simple plan that shows how the yard should be divided into watering zones. It would be nothing more than the plan you've posted here (of the entire yard) with "circles" (outlines) around the various watering zones/plant types. Where an area is too large for one zone (like turf) it would be subdivided, but the irrigation tech can appraise how that would best be done. Discussing your "plan" with them would allow you to see if you and they are on the same page for the work. If you talk to one company and they can't help, try another.

Do you really ever get 6 inches of rain in an hour? Rainfall in southern California is rarely even 2 inches in a day. 6 inches in an hour is only likely where one gets hurricanes. In any case, if you connect your downspouts directly to the drain line, you'll minimize ponding.

Weep screeds on stucco houses are nothing like a weep hole, and weep screeds are a common building characteristic on all stucco houses built across the country, where wood framing is used. A weep screed is a continuous feature all around the base of the foundation walls, at the point where the stucco terminates and the required 6 inch gap to dirt and the concrete foundation wall extends to grade.

Part of the reason why kikuyu grass invaded was the nutty layout of the current irrigation. It led to certain parts of the lawn not getting enough water for the Marathon 1, and the kikuyu invading.

However, after carefully looking at the layout, I think I have a solution. There is an unused sprinkler valve that works located a few feet from where I need an additional one. The prior owners tried to irrigate the front lawn only from one side (near the house). The unused valve would need 6-7 sprinklers on the other edge of the grass. Since we expect to regrade some in that area anyhow, digging for irrigation won't be a problem.

In addition, the prior owners had mixed very different types of sprinklers on the same line (some big canister impact sprinklers, some popup, some fixed, different brands). It's not difficult to put in consistent sprinklers on each zone.

After more reading here, I am leaning strongly toward reducing the bumpiness of the lawn with a mix of sand and some organic matter. We applied some fertilizer and irrigated in the slightly cooler weather to get the current lawn ready for herbicide. While the kikuyu grew too, the fescue has exploded with growth. With matching seed, it could fill in pretty well without having to sod the whole lawn.

We are fortunate that we are on a ridgeline near the coast and get a good deal of rain and fog. It's only July to Mid September that we use much water for the lawn.

Yes, we have gotten 6 inches of rain in an hour, March 20, 2011, http://www.malibutimes.com/news/article_33239209-0217-5ac3-b66b-100060 75ca13.html . We're near one of the official stations and it was awful. We have also gotten over 4 inches in a day a couple of times. We had redone the drainage in the back yard by then, and can confidently say it will take incredibly serious storms. Rain near the ridgeline is often several times as much as downtown LA or LAX.

Thanks