Many times, roots can be left in the ground to decompose on their own if the new plants do not need to go in the exact same locations. Most of the time, existing plants are planted too close to the foundation and new plants will be set farther from it. If the new row must go in the same line as the old, it still might be possible to leave the old roots in place if the new plant spacing can be adjusted to work in between the old. If either of these arrangements will work, cut the tops of the existing plants off as low to the ground as possible and "paint" the freshly cut stump surfaces with Glyphosate (Round-up) concentrate to prevent resprouting of shrubs.

What species are they, and what do you plan to do in that area?

As Yardvaark says, you might not have to do anything but slice them off at ground level with a chain saw and cover them with mulch.

To get rid of the removed parts, you can compost them. Or find someone who can shred them as mulch.

Thank you both for your answers . I am particularly excited to cut down the japanese maple meat ball ( looks red) blocking my dining room window .
The others are some kind of shrub unknown to me .
My plan includes different nature attracting shrubs and daylillies . Just some color ! I'm working on plan now .

Thanks again ! Perhaps I'll remember to follow up with a after pic .

Before you rip out the J. Maple in front of the window you might thin out the limbs and see if you like it better or put it on craig's list and someone would come out and dig it up for you.

Before you cut everything down--you might want to leave the evergreen shrubs on the ends and take out the middle 2 and see if you like the look. Mature plantings take awhile to grow.

Frankielynn , that is an excellent idea to try and save the maple for someone who may appriciate it more . I know they are pricey , I found the invoice from the homeowner and it was well over 100 and delivered from a nursery about 80 miles away! Is now a good time though? I posted an ad in August for someone to claim it, not even have to take it that week, and received a very very grumpy response from some unkind person . I don't feel like dealing with that again. :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Lovely letter to show why I am Leary of Craigslist ..:)

I recently bought a house with landscaping that wasn't to our taste. I took pics and posted on CraigsList "free plants". Two days later everything had been dug up and carted away by people who wanted mature plantings but didn't want to pay the price. They were all very careful as they would be planting them in their own yard. You may even find a landscaper who will take them off your hands and sell them to clients.

Two thoughts:
1. When you finish installing "your plan" and step back to appraise your efforts...you may realize that something is missing. That missing element will be 'contrast' which is the play of texture, light and shadows achieved with thoughtful tree and shrub placement.

2. Browning sections of lawn appear to be chinch bug damage. Lots of on-line information to read, identify and treat this pesky little bug.

Nandina , thank you ! I agree contrast is missing for sure . I don't have a plan yet but it won't be boring ! I will read Up on the bug but this pic was taken before the grass went from dormant to awake . Our entire back yard is brown now with a few patches of alive grass that is some other variety . However we do seem to have a June bug issue in the front yard. We put down some grub powder and hopefully that helps !
I wish the homeowners hadn't used this dormant grass , as it is hideous . Especially since it makes us look like a patch of dead desert next to the crop the farm next to us uses !

There are some good on-line instructions for removing root balls. I'm a small, older woman and I have successfully dug up and removed many. The link below explains the process. I cheat and use a Sawzall electric recip saw with a pruning blade in place of the manual digging spade.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tree stump removal

you have someone who'll yank the shrubs for $200. What's the question? Do it. Nothing that's there has roots that will impact the sidewalk when the rootball comes up, and then you're done. Unless the $200 is a hardship (which it doesn't sound like it is), I don't get why people are advising you NOT to be able to start over with totally clean, clear beds. You leave the stumps, there will always be at least one right where you want to put something.

I'm not in opposition to paying to yank the shrubs. Just proposing an alternate way, if needed. Sure, it would be easier just to clear the space and have no worries about roots that are in the way. Whether leaving roots behind works, or not, depends a lot on the new shrub locations.

You have a lovely home. I advise not removing plants until you have designed the new landscape. Do you have an inspiration
picture? Have you considered just shearing your hedges? Then you could add more plants for a very lush look.
Digging the roots out is not necessary. The stumps will likely be hidden by the new plants. Your questions are not silly at all. They do seem to hint you are not an experienced gardener. Day lilies require some grooming.

get rid of it all.. including the right side one ...

cut all flush to the ground..

dream up new scape ... dig out those where you need to plant something else ... leave the rest ..

personally.. i can conceptualize w/o a bare look at it all ...

but do understand ... foundation plantings.. are planted to HIDE THE FOUNDATION ... NOT ON THE FOUNDATION ...

the prior planter... didnt understand.. that conifers.. which are trees... NEVER stop growing ... as such.. you dont plan for the size you buy ... you plan.. based on a plants annual growth rate.. and plan for 15 to 20 years ... all this can be explained in the conifer forum ... should you wish.. no need to limit yourself to one forum ....

frankly ... NOTHING SHOULD BE PLANTED INSIDE THE WALKWAY .... IN TERMS OF TREES.. SHRUBS.. OR CONIFERS... leave that space for some small annuals and perennials.. the big stuff should be in a 10 to 15 foot bed.. away from the walkway....

in fact.. a very cool retaining wall could retain that bed... making your house seem better attached to the land ... as it sits right now... your castle.. seems to be slipping off to one side.. as the land dips away .....

finally ... you plantings.. should be in scale to the height of your house.. part of the problem now... is that being so close.. nothing could be allowed to grow more than 1/3 the height of the first floor ... leading to a squat presentation ... your 2.5 story house.. is not well presented with 4 foot shrubs on the foundation ...

i dont spend a lot of time in this forum ... as compared to tree/shrub and conifer forums .... find me.. if you wish ...

ken

One was said to be a Japanese maple, perhaps worth hundreds of dollars once allowed to recover a natural shape. The rest we do not know what they are, really cannot tell anything else that might be useful from this distance away. Probably there is more that could be left to grow back out naturally, contribute maturity and size to the new design than just the conifers on the ends. Which because they are stiff formal sentinels near the house corners may actually be the least enhancing part of the existing layout.

You have a very nice home, probably as well-designed inside as outside. Why not consult a professional landscape designer before you remove everything? It will be worth your time and money to have a garden as carefully designed as your home.

Have the farmer next door help you put in a cover crop to build up
The soil. Crimson clover or any of the other flowering cover crops.
Do you really want to mow all that grass?