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Seperating newly rooted raspberry shoots

Posted by Moonmadness none (My Page) on
Fri, Jan 31, 14 at 4:00

I have a 1-2 yo raspberry bush near a fence.
It gave beautiful and yummy fruit last year but I didn't prune it afterwards (didn't know I should have).

Now some of it's shoots are a few meters long and some of them went back into the ground and rooted there quite deeply.

I know that a new bush will grow from that point but I don't know if I should cut the cord between the mother bush and the new one, when to do it, and where to to it.


Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Seperating newly rooted raspberry shoots

Where are you? That would help as to when to do it. Usually a good time is just before spring, while plant is dormant. Are these black raspberries? If it is canes produce the 2nd year. After fruitiing cut cane down to the ground. Do it right after last harvest. If red, different ways to prune exist depending on type. I never heard of a red tip rooting, I suppose it's possible? Wild reds do.

RE: Seperating newly rooted raspberry shoots

Thanks for your reply!

I'm in Israel, in the Sharon area (7 km from the beach, very close to sea level)
January here is 14 degrees on average, but this has been the driest January ever measured!
Yes, they are purplish-black.
I now know about cutting to the ground after fruiting, but that wasn't my question.

Also there are very few leaves and they don't look so good - there is lots of browning at the tips.

RE: Seperating newly rooted raspberry shoots

OK, well you seemed a little lost about pruning by your statement. Browning at the tips can be lack of water or too much fertilizer. Seems blacks like a lot of water. Or purples which is a black/red cross. Hopefully it's not disease. It sounds like lack of water. Roots are not happy and the symptom are those brown tips. If canes die, inspect roots for any problems. Raspberries are fairly disease free, that said they can have a few dozen types of diseases.

RE: Seperating newly rooted raspberry shoots

If it has tip rooted, you can cut them right now. If you want to dig up and pot or relocate the "daughters" I'd do so now while it is dormant.

Yup, end of season when fruiting is done you might as well cut the spent fluorocanes away so they stop blocking off sunlight and consuming stores in the roots to increase yield next year's fluorocanes.

And it sounds like it is invasive in your area so you must prune to control spread (size).

RE: Seperating newly rooted raspberry shoots

Raspberry plants live two year lifecycles. First year primocanes, second year fluorocanes (fluoro = flower = fruit). Once fruiting is over the fluorocanes eventually die. This years primocanes become next years fluorocanes. And new primocanes grow up out of the rhizome in the ground to renew the cycle annually.

There are several types of raspberry and hybrids. There may be primocane fruiting types now as well--but they do not do well in my raspberry really does--so I don't keep up with developments. I imagine most parts of Israel are not ideal for raspberry development and much partial shade particularly in the afternoon is needed.

commercial guide:
Commercial Everbearing Red Raspberry
Production for New Mexico

Here is a link that might be useful: Raspberries New Mexico Home Guide

This post was edited by Fascist_Nation on Fri, Jan 31, 14 at 13:05

RE: Seperating newly rooted raspberry shoots


So how do I know if the plant is dormant?
How do I know if it's sick or lacks irrigation?

RE: Seperating newly rooted raspberry shoots

Floricanes, rather than fluorocanes. Unless of course yours shine back at you when you garden in the dark ;-)

RE: Seperating newly rooted raspberry shoots

"So how do I know if the plant is dormant? "
No growth. But you can do it anytime. With some plants you cannot, but raspberries are versatile.

"How do I know if it's sick or lacks irrigation?"

Experience! Water more, see what happens. If it responds well you figured it out and will know what to do next time. If it doesn't well that is some knowledge too.
Tips browning is usually caused by damaged roots, damaged roots can be caused by lack of water, too much fertilizer, not enough fertilizer. A mineral deficiency (use trace minerals). Insect infestation like nematodes, or cane borers. Fungal infections seems unlikely in your dry conditions.
Increase water, inspect canes for lesions, if it dies see if roots have tumors (nematodes cause this). Add green sand or azomite or kelp to increase trace minerals. This might not be needed, but if nothing else works, do it.
Add compost to top and mulch with something every spring or at the start of new growth once a year.
I add composted manure on top and also add a touch of organic fertilizer to the compost. Then I top with pine needles as a mulch. This is ideal IMHO, but it needs the basics, food and water. Worst case, just water and miracle grow. Better than nothing.

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