You would almost certainly loose it within a few years from what I've read. Even the truly cold hardy kakis are very vulnerable to fluctuating temps that far up north. If you choose to experiment you can protect the base of the tree by mounding dirt as high as possible up the trunk before onset of winter and removing in spring. New branches can grow from protected part of trunk when top dies.

At least start with something hardier like Great Wall.

Great Wall and Sheng have proven track records of several decades in PA, and as h-man indicates, would be the first ones I'd try - more cold-hardy than Jiro, but they are of the astringent-'til-ripe type.
I have a friend in Terre Haute, who's probably one of the foremost persimmon authorities in the country, and virtually all D.kaki selections have failed for him there. 'Rosseyanka', a D.kakiXvirginiana hybrid, has performed well there with no winter damage; 'Nikita's Gift', it's offpring, from a backcross to D.kaki, making it 3/4 D.kaki, has survived and fruited there, but sustains winter damage most years in his orchard.

MY ORIENTALS ARE NOW ALL GRAFTED ON NATIVE PERSIMMON THAT GROW WILD HERE IN MY AREA. My natives do not come-out of dormancy around the 10-15 of april. Tree's that i bought from east will not work in iffy area's like yours. That delay make all the difference.I wrap my tree,s with wire about 3 feet in diameter and fill it up leaves and little twigs to hold the leaves from compacting. The reason for this is mainly to keep the sun from warming up the trunk when you get frequent warming spells in the winter and early spring.

You guys have given me some real good info. I'm now looking at Rosseyanka variety. It looks like good eating fruit Plus seedless from what I read.

Right now i have 3 varieties that i can recommend. Sayo,kiungsun ban si,rossianka.My tree's have produce 3 years in a row now. I have about 14 persimmon tree's of these varieties with another5 of giombo,fuyu,jiro.I will graft about 10 giombo's and 5 sayo's this spring. As far as pretty tree,s i like the giombo's and kiungsun the best. With my small paw-paw and persimmon collection and others i feel like i live in a tropical jungle.By the way i do live in a jungle now, its call The Ozarks.

PBob, which of your favorite varieties ripens earliest and are they all astringent?

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Sayo is my favorite now,Kiungsun just as good. Good looking yard tree's. Rossianka is o.k.but not good for me.Taste is so-so and not agood looking tree.Giombo is a very iffy tree for my area and i have 3 of them just grafted this spring and doing real good.I soon will find-out about them.

The picture shows how i protect the tree,especialy for late freezes by not exposing the trunck to warming spells in winter and spring.These tree's mention are all astringent.

You guys have given me some real good info. I'm now looking at Rosseyanka variety. It looks like good eating fruit Plus seedless from what I read.

Does anyone know where to find a Rosseyanka at? I found it online at edible landscape, but with shipping its about $55.00, Thats a lot to spend on one bare root tree.

Try Hidden Springs Nursery in Tennessee. I bought a couple of persimmon trees from them in 2009. They were kind of on the small side, whips about 3 feet tall, but healthy. $18.00.

Here is a link that might be useful: Persimmons at Hidden Springs

Can I grow Ichi persimmon in Detroit Mi area? Thanks

I'm just outside the Detroit area (in a nice microclimate provided by proximity to a large lake) and my 5 year old Ichi Ke Kei Jiro has lots of buds and I assume small fruit forming this year. It had a set back the year after I got it when a kid broke off a large branch and aborted fruit that next season. It didn't even bloom the year after that. So this might be the first year I get fruit from it (if things go well)

~Chills

As you notice that i live on Beaverlake in the Ozarks and i grow several asian persimmons. The problem with my zone and yours is that you might get fruit this year,but will they ripen? Some of mine ripens too late,like the second half of november(hard freeze)and then they just sit there.

Thanks Chills! I live in Warren, Mi, some said I am in 5b and some said in 6b, of kind of confusion, anyway I will order one 5gallons from eat-it.com, $60 plus $20 pot shipping. I plan to protect the tree by wrapping around the trunk wit heating element(wires) those are use on roof to melt ice. I think it can make a huge different. I may build a frame to protect from the wind as well. I'll try anything to grow it here.

For Persimmonbob, It depends on what persimmon you got, I eat alot of both ASTRINGENT and NON PERSIMMON here in the summer. I buy the ASTRINGENT PERSIMMON when they are not ripe and leave on them on counter top just over a week and they can be eaten. if you want to eat sooner you can put them in paper bag with apple. Cheer!

Have you try to grow Giombo(astringent),how about Saruga these are very good tasting ones. I was given a couple sions a couple of years ago and i might get to taste them.

These are very late ones and i do not know if they ripen.
I have use some of the different ways you mention plus the one with wishky in a tight container.This one i left it in the container for 5 days instead of 3,and they are all wishky tasting.(make sure you the kind of wishkey you like to drink).

Are they hardier than Saijo? I heard Saijo has good rating and cold hardy too. what month your persimmon start bud and flowering? Thanks

I do not know yet. Saiyo has allways been an reliable grower for me,providing it is in a sunny location with atleast 7 hrs of sun.My location on some of my tree's are not ideal because in the fall these tree's get shaded because i have a rather tall house standing in the way and the sun location.

So in the fall i get less sunhours and it does make a difference. Because most of my persimmon are grafted on my natives growing here,the asians are coming out of dormancy between april 1 and the 15th. The ones on rootstock from Ed.L are coming out much sooner,which is something i do not want.I would say this if you live in a warmer zone that rootstock would be pretty good. It is also easier to graft to(more takes and cleaner looking joints).Later coming out of dormancy means later ripening and less sunhrs in the fall......

I called Ed.L and was told their Ichi has rootstock of D. virginiana which is good for northern, Lotus rootstock will not survive in the North in 8yrs or so. So you think if I purchase from them, my persimmon would coming out of dormancy before april and will be at risk as well due to late freeze? Thanks

As of this year I have about 12 persimmon trees in my garden. I have Saijo, Nikita's gift, Taber, Nashimura wase, Ichi kei jiro, Keener, Hokkaido, Kyung sun bansi, Hana fuyu, Great wall, Chocolate, Russyanka, and an Asian persimmon seedling. They have all survived last winter of -7�F. This year I have fruit on most of them. I will be enjoying them this fall. All of them I grafted on Diospyros Virginiana, except one or two on D. Lotus.

Bass

I'm in Saint Clair Shores. (though I work in Warren) My Asian persimmon just finished blooming and has small fruit developing in each flower.

About 2-3 miles away, in my (soon to be ex) mother-in-law's yard I have an american persimmon planted and it too just finished blooming and has fruit forming as well.

I originally got my Ichi Ke Kei Jiro from Edible landscaping (eat-it.com) but I got my Elmo (American) from England's nursery. The England's nursery plant was a nicer plant, but they sell bareroot earlier in the season, whereas Edible Landscaping sells smaller potted plants (which can be ordered and planted pretty much year round)

~Chills

For me the only thing i worry about is late freeze. Low temps during winter is not a problem( my lows this past winter were-4 for 3 days), no problem. I live in a area that has frequent late freezes. All my nursery bought tree's has not survive except one, the one from E.d L.and this is because of additional winter protection(regrowth close above the graft)

I am not taken any more chances with growing asian persimmon then i have to.I am totally satisfy with my 30 or 40 tree's now, grafted on my natives, spread over a wide area. They look very good and healthy and beautiful in my landscape,and plenty of fruit too.

Bonsaist. I read some where your Hana was loaded of fruit but not the next yr. so did it produce fruit again?

Hi Chills,
Can you tell me if your Ichi fruited this Yr? Thanks