Without a layout I'd think you are likely spinning your wheels by planting early. I usually change my mind even when the planting areas are clearly laid out.

You also need to be concerned about things like deer.

But east of Mississippi it can be done. Planting bare roots in early spring, mulching heavily, and controlling weeds will allow establishment with a minimum of watering.

Not a bad idea doing what fruitnut said. You might be able to get away with only watering during drought with heavy mulch (4-5 inches)

My concern would be the transplanting since you don't know the layout yet. It might be more practical to invest in some larger, container grown fruit trees from a local nursery when you're ready and be at nearly the same point.

Another thing to consider is deer and animals eating your young trees when you are not around.

Is there anyway to know an area that you wouldn't build on and plant there? A couple of acres is plenty of room to plant far away from any potential building spot.

What about growing them in containers at your current place while you wait?

with your situation, I won't bother with it. wait until things are clear and you can take care of the trees. if you really want to catch up, buy the larger trees with good roots.

You generally build a home on the high point of the property to prevent flooding. Roadside will determine driveway location.

Unfortunately construction will require a fair amount of space around the home at first.

So you might be able to plant the periphery--especially if a wind row is contemplated--but planting anywhere near where the house might be located would likely result in expensive transplanting later with trees that might recover at the rate that a newly planted tree would surpass in time.

It is also possible that electrical, water, sewer and gas lines going to the future home may dictate tree removal.

Duplicate post. Deleted.

This post was edited by RedSun on Tue, Jan 13, 15 at 22:14

It is a long wait before fruits. If you fence them individually, water for 10-20 saplings (about one gallon per week, if heavily mulched) can be carried in the car. I actually have several 5 gallons laboratory containers precisely for that reason. And typically east of the mississippi you have to water only the first year, then they will be established. Last summer I watered twice. The problem with individual fencing is that it is a pain to work on them, tasks such as shaping the tree, so you need to be sure that shortly thereafter you will have a fence and you will be able to remove the individual cages.

It's not worth it, for a couple of years, just wait...

I'd plant a tree or two (maybe a peach and a pie cherry) so you will have something producing in 2-3 years. Transplanting after that might be iffy, so I'd consider them as temporary until you get your main orchard planted and producing. Protect them from deer and critters with cages. Make sure they have good drainage, or plant them on a wide mound about 12-18 inches high.

Some of my fruit trees have taken seven or more years to produce, so if I were you, I would plant a few trees well away from the building site, individually cage them, and water them as needed. After you build the house, you will have fruit fever and can add more trees to suit your landscaping plans. I purchased several acres about 13 miles from here, and have planted a couple dozen fruit and nut trees, all in individual wire cages. The cages are a pain, but very necessary until I can get a fence built. We had a rainy spring, so I only had to haul water a couple times.
I would say, Go for it! Forget the transplanting idea, though. Northwoodswis

Thank you very much for all of your insight. I have a lot to think about.