I am by no means an expert, and have never done it myself. But I have done some reading on this as I was going to root some from a friends tree. From what I learned on the web and in books; some varieties can be difficult to root and that grafting to root stock is a better option. However, if my memory serves me correctly after 4-6 weeks you should have some roots and be able to transplant to individual pots for those that do root. What grow media did you use? I would like to see some updates on your progress with this, maybe that will sway me to follow suit or try grafting. Best of luck!

I used potting mix with a little perlite added. I also stuck the cuttings in rooting hormone.

I wanted a certain apple on it's own root much the same. Being that I knew apples are less likely to root than pears I'm going forward with it anyways. The method I'm using is bigger cuttings. My reasons are aimed through a patent claim which can be found through google searching of a term using all these words with the quotes intact;
"At its larger end, the slip" "for best results, the slip"

Tlbean,

You may find the attached link below to be useful. I think this method may work on pear or apple. Good luck.

Tony

Here is a link that might be useful: Stone fruit rooting

>>How long will it take for pear tree cuttings to root?My guess,..never,..unless you have HUGE luck.

They are tough to root. I found a study on the oldhome x farmingdale crosses and their propagation by cuttings from maybe the 60s or 70s. They had specific timing and methodology outlined and they had their best success with a certain protocol and even then it was not a sure thing by any means. If you google it you can find the study I am sure. Obviously it can be done, at least with some varities, because OH x F rootstock is all propagated from hardwood cuttings.

I should also mention that these are cuttings from a wild callery pear tree that is growing off the highway. It has such a pretty shape i decided to get cuttings so i could have the tree in my backyard.

Here is a pic of the tree i took the cuttings from..

{{gwi:2118848}}

Those cuttings are huge (too long & too thick). For a home experiment I would recommended you go with 4-6" cuttings and the least thick ones you can find.

Is there a lid on that tupperware box to provide 90%+ humidity?

I would also recommend 90% perlite to 10% peat (potting mix).

Either Dip n' Grow or Clonex gel for your rooting hormone. A 1-2 minute dip in Dip n' Grow.

Water from below - I guess it can be assumed your clear cups have drainage holes.

Lots of luck needed I believe unless you can find that report/study mentioned above.

Furthermore I would almost wager that cuttings of pear etc. are done on a mist bench either spring at time when the tree(s) being propagated are showing the slightest bud swell or mid-summer between the end of June to the end of July.

Got a heat mat? I'd use it if you do.

Dax

You are better off by digging up some seedlings around that pear tree. My Cleveland flowering pear tree had quite a few seedlings grow under the canopy of the tree. I used them for rootstocks to graft Euro and Asian pears.

Tony

No heat mat and i do have a top for the tupperware. I dont think i saw any seedling around it but it was kinda muddy and grassy.
And there are no holes in the cups. i dont really plan on having to water it much with them being in the tupperware container.

I rooted african violets in even smaller cups with no holes and there was no problem.

Also those are tip cuttings. There was not any thinner wood to get.

Better results with a different method. Dig up some of the roots and plant in your desired location with 4-6" sticking out. They should send out sprouts a few weeks after the normal dormancy break. An added bonus is that you don't have to replant and disturb the root system again. Good luck. Bill

This post was edited by 2010ChampsBCS on Mon, Jan 12, 15 at 11:57

Well my last thought is to cut again this spring (early - sign of the first spring bulb you see) and stick them up against the north side of your house or, do it the beginning of fall.

Grafting of course is the next step.

Best regards,

Dax

I missed your post Bill. I went outside to shovel.

I thought if a sucker could be procured, that too would solve this issue.

Dax

Im just gonna try my luck with rooting these cuttings. I have 12 of them and 1 is sure to root. Some have rooting hormone and some dont.
Im going to place one cutting in soil inside the fridge to see if that works and another cutting is going to sit on top of the water heater to see if the heat helps. But the majority are just gonna sit in that tupperware container.

I dont really want to dig up any roots.
I dont even like to go see the tree because i have to park on the side of the highway and walk over thick grass and puddles to get to it. Also, if a police where to drive by he might ask what i am doing.

Anyways,
Does anyone know for sure that these cuttings will turn out as the same shape of upward curved branches and a single trunk like the parent tree?

It is so pretty, and i dont think it will get too much taller.

I have seen cleveland cultivars that were taller and have a thinner trunk. So this one might stay even shorter than those.

I just hope it doesnt break in 20 years!! lol

anymore advice, i really want this to work!

Tlbean,

You can order a pear rootstock for around $3.50 and graft it yourself. it will be an identical tree if your graft takes. You can go to youtube and watch wedge or bark graft videos. Good luck.

Tony

Tony, can the callery pear be grafted to the Quince Province BA 29C Rootstock?

That way i can be sure the tree will stay kind of small.

I'm still wondering what is so special about this tree, looks like the general form of these trees. As others mentioned, if wanting to propagate pears, makes sense to do via grafting, not cuttings. But if grafting, makes better sense to actually graft edible pears.

Yes, it is a general looking form, but ii is a little shorter and wider and i just really want to start my own tree.

Most of the other wild seedlings around that area do not look like this one actually.

Tlbean,

I think that should work out for you with the quince rootstock.

Tony

Depending on the method in the most favorable season.
Yes absolutely, it works. I've had good results
not only just for Quince,

This has turned out to be a very productive thread when it comes to the pictures and external links (it all helps :). As far as the method of getting woody cuttings in the fridge in dark plastic.. well I had not heard of that one before two years ago until it happened by accident. A gentleman came up to me at a grafting and swap meet at the garden club attempting to have a copy of his plum tree. After prior years of failed cuttings using his smaller stuff he figured grafting might work. I looked in his large black plastic bag of wet 3 foot tender branches and all had been way past bud break which is normally too late for grafting. And thankfully (to my surprise) there had been heavy amounts of callus on each one like the picture Alcedo above.

I was so pleased for him about this luck. It has me wondering where Alcedo learned how to root his cuttings using black plastic?

Thanks so much for all the advice guys!

I will be sure to let you know the outcome.

OK, one of the cuttings is putting out a new leaf.
Several of the others have new growth aswell. but im not sure if it will be leaves or flower buds.