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grafting kiwi

Posted by larry_nc7 z7 NC (My Page) on
Mon, Feb 19, 07 at 8:31

Does anyone have experience grafing kiwi (arguta)scion onto mature vines? I have two males and no female. I have some hardwood scions I got from a friend.

Want to make sure I do it right so I don't lose a year, or worse, kill the vines.

What type of graft is best? When to do it?

Thanks for any help,
-- Larry


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: grafting kiwi

Larry, the expert is kiwinut and he will hopefully see your question. In the meantime my approach is to graft just as the buds are popping on the stock, and to cut 1-2 "drainage" cuts in the stock right below the graft, so the bleeding will come out of those cuts. Too much sap flow through the graft ruins it, and kiwis can really bleed in the spring. Also wrap the graft extra tightly since there will be sap pressure against it. So far I'm 100% on the few grafts I have done. I did simple wedge grafts but expect other types will also work well.

Scott


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RE: grafting kiwi

Larry, Scott's method should work well. However, in the event something goes wrong, save some wood for re-grafting later. I have found that a scion grafted to a large vigorus new shoot in late spring will really take off fast, and the green wood will not bleed. I use a whip and tongue graft, although a simple cleft or wedge graft will also work. I would suggest that you layer the new growth from the scion after it gets going well, so that the female gets on its own roots. A late spring freeze can sometimes kill a vine back if it has started to grow, and you could lose the scion. If the female is on its own roots, it will resprout.

~kiwinut


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RE: grafting kiwi

Hey Scott and Kiwinut,
I'm grafting onto 2 mature (about 4-year-old) vines, and was planning to do the grafts about 5' up where the main canes emerge from the trunks.

Should I cut the vines back to stubs and graft closer to the ground? I just hate to throw away those giant trunks. Alternatively, I could graft onto some laterals near the top of the trunks, which are closer in size to the scions.

If I graft to the larger canes (maybe 1.5" in diameter), should I use a cleft or bark graft or ...?

I really want to make sure this works. THanks for your help!

-- Larry


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RE: grafting kiwi

I have never tried it on Actinidia, but a bark graft should work better on a larger vine than a cleft graft, and should heal over much faster. You will definitely need to make a pressure release cut below the graft if you graft onto a trunk or the base of a cordon. However, if I wanted to use a large vine and take advantage of the mature root system, I would cut it off close to the ground and graft to the new shoots that it will send up.

Since you have two vines, and you will want to maintain one as part male, you could graft one high to a lateral, and "replace" the other using one of the methods just mentioned.

~kiwinut


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RE: grafting kiwi

Kiwinut and Scott,
I now feel armed and (hopefully not) dangerous. Picture me trying every possible graft in every possible location to make sure this works. After the heartbreak of discovering I have 2 males after 4 years, I really want some kiwi!

Thanks for all your help, -- Larry


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RE: grafting kiwi

I know this is a very ancient posting, but if anyone is still reading it, is it theoretically possible to graft Actinidia arguta on to Actinidia deliciosa?
I am growing the self fertile 'Issai' variety but it is extremely weak growing, even though it produces delicious fruit after two years. I am hoping I can graft it to a very vigorous standard kiwi (grown from seed) so it will grow vigorously and produce flowers and fruit which are self fertile.
Anyone done this? Just what kind of wood should I take from the Actinidia arguta and how and when should I graft it to the Actinidia deliciosa?


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RE: grafting kiwi

I have three immature A. arguta plants I bought last fall: a male "Meader", and two females, "Anna" and "Ken's Red". I have an arbor over my patio which already has grape vines trained to the sides. I'd like to have my kiwi vines climb another post and fill in the middle of the arbor.

Would I be better off planting all three kiwis in a single hole, and hoping none of them will be choked off by the others, or should I plant one and train a central leader up the post, and graft the other varieties to laterals at the top after the first vine is well established? I've been thinking the latter option might be a good choice, but then the question becomes, which of the three varieties is likely to be most vigorous, and should be planted and trained up the arbor? Any input is appreciated.


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