I took four cuttings from a neighborhood mulberry tree and one of the four rooted successfully. It's already bloomed and set a couple of berries this spring.

I don't have a whole lot of advice, as I really didn't know what I was doing. I clipped some pencil-thick branches, stripped the leaves, roughed up the ends, dipped in rooting hormone, and stuck the sticks in 1 gallon pots full of normal potting soil. I put 2 in each pot and made sure at least 2 leaf nodes were buried. Then I put them in the shade with plastic bags set loosely over the tops of the branches and pots.

I was glad that one cutting took, as the tree I took them from (which was the best in the neighborhood) got cut down soon after.

I had tried several times without success (both callusing and not) until I got some nice thick cuttings from a large water sprout last year, and pieces of this all rooted without any special treatment, and no callusing. I used perlite in pots covered with clear plastic domes, placed inside my warm sunroom.

Now I'm trying the direct-root method with cuttings from the same tree planted in the ground in the fall. Several others on this forum have not had success with this (you should be able to locate a thread or two about it), but it is supposed to be possible.

I think success with mulberry cuttings has a lot to do with the species of Morus, the size/vigor of the cuttings, the individual tree, and certain growth factors that can vary seasonally.

If I were you though and wanted a better chance at success, I would try planting them right away in pots inside, instead of waiting for them to callus and doing it outside.

Thanks for the advice, I did get cuttings from some very nice sprouts this time.

I would like to know if anyone has pulled a low limb down to the ground and rooted it this way. I have saved this low limb to do this with. I am going to notch it and put a stick in it to keep it open. Then put some rooting hormone on it. Has anyone been able to get one to root this way. It maybe an inch in diameter.

AC,
'Supposedly', with milky-sap plants, like mulberry/fig/che/osage orange, you can plant truncheons, as big around as your arm, about 1.5-2ft in the ground, and they'll root.
I planted a large number of mulberry truncheons and 'hammer' type cuttings this fall - most not so big as my arm. Too early to give a report as to success rates, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
Google 'rooting truncheons' - should bring up some info...

I have had some success (30-40%) with dormant hardwood cuttings kept refrigerated in a humid environment until temps in the 60's consistently outdoors and then rooting in a 2:1 perlite/peat moss mix. Cuttings about a foot long with 6 inches submerged and first treated with rooting hormone and the exposed portion covered with parafilm.

But the question is, at least on general principles: is it better to use dormant wood or late spring wood? Hardwood or softwood? I am talking solely about mulberries obviously.