This time of year dormant oil spray is a good thing to spray on your trees
http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Yield-32-Oz-Dormant-Spray/dp/B004XDH83M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1391395174&sr=8-3&keywords=dormant+oil+spray
In the spring a general purpose spray that is a fungicide and an insecticide would be good. Here is an example http://www.amazon.com/Green-Light-41017-Fruit-Spray/dp/B000LO0URI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391395072&sr=8-1&keywords=fruit+tree+spray

None of us like to spray but growing peaches without it is not possible in my area with the knowledge that I have.

A sprayer like this works fine http://www.amazon.com/Chapin-20000-1-Gallon-Garden-Sprayer/dp/B000E28UQU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1391395380&sr=8-13&keywords=dormant+oil+spray
Everyone always asks about organic methods and I'm not saying it can't be done but it can be challenging. Apples are sometimes grown organically using kaolin clay http://www.groworganicapples.com/organic-orcharding-articles/surround-kaolin-clay.php/
brown rot is the nemesis of organic peach growers as black rot is to organic grape growers but here is a link with some suggestions http://woodleaffarm.com/growing-peaches/

Thank you for the info and links. I will look into it

Search the universities websites and get additional info before you start spraying. The info I gave you is just basic knowledge to give you a rough idea of where to start. Here is an actual guide to follow http://extension.unh.edu/resources/files/resource000503_rep525.pdf

Ryan,

In MA, I say we need to spray our peach trees for both diseases and insects. Common diseases for peach are Peach Leave Curl, bacteria spot (also called shot hole), peach scab and brown rot. Common insects are Plum Curculio, Oriental Fruit Moth and coddling moth.

Some people go more organic, some prefer chemicals since the latter tend to be more effective. I am in between. When I can use less chemicals, I do.

For me, before bud break (mid March), I spray copper hydroxide (the brand I use is called Kocide 3000). I add Spreader/Sticker in the mix for copper stay on better/longer. It help with PLC and shot hole. I use sulfur spray for scab. Sulfur is not as effective as fungicide like chlorothalonil (brand name Daconil) or Captan. Captan is also help prevent brown rot. Brown rot is not a serious issue for me yet (it's coming, I know it) so I have not used anything.

A week after petal fall, I spray Triazicide Once and Done for insect control. Then, I used footsies soaked in kaolin clay called Surround. It works if timing is right.

If you don't want to put footsies on your peaches, you can spray Once and Done a few more times 10-14 days apart depending on rain and pest pressure. I am considering spraying Surround instead of using footsies this year. It will coat the fruit and prevent insect from damaging it. Putting footsies on 100+ peaches was not easy.

Hope this help.

Thank you mamuang. This is my first year with the peach tree. I attached a photo. I need help to understand pruning to open center. I've watched multiple videos and am not sure of myself as where to cut

The advice you've got from another thread is fine. To me, peach is easier to prune.

A common practice for pruning peach tree is open-centered. If you don't have a deer problem, starting training your tree low is fine (on your tree, the lowest branch needs to go).

Keep only 3-4 branches/scaffolds that have good crotch angles and go off in different directions to balance the tree. Get rid of other competing scaffolds esp. one with narrow crotch angles. This may be hard to do at first but once you decide which scaffolds to keep, it's easier to manage your tree after that.

Also, weigh down the branches/scaffolds (the ones you keep) so the branches are more horizontal. It's easier to reach and less likely to break with fruitload. Some say horizontal branches produce more fruit spurs that vertical ones.

If you have fruit this year, thin them hard. Peach oversets fruit. Otherwise, you will have small, tasteless peaches vs. a few good ones.

I was looking at my peach tree and one of the lower scaffold branches is oozing and there's a black spot on it. Any ideas? If you zoom in on the picture you can see it.

Here's a better picture

That appears to be canker. I would chop off as much as you can and then spray the tree down with captan. If you find any on the main trunk I have seen people carve out the chunk and paint it with tanglefoot. If it's a side branch get rid of it. Other people may have additional ideas. Look for holes in the trunk around the bottom and make sure I did not misidentify it for borers. They look similar. Hope that helps. If you have wild cherry etc. in the area you might inspect them and see if they have it and if so get rid of them. I burn the wood if I see anything like that when I cut it out. Hit your saws , clippers or whatever you use with Clorox or alcohol.