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Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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Posted by michael357 5b (My Page) on Fri, Feb 5, 10 at 21:06
| Greetings all:
I have been comparing the labels of Daconil and Monterey Fruit, Vegetable and Ornamental Fungicide (MFVO) with Echo 720. There seems to be a considerable difference in the label rates, based on %A.I.. Daconil and Echo calculate out very close to the same while MFVO is quite different. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Following are my calculations -
Daconil and MFVO are both 29.6% chlorothalonil, Echo is 54%
Daconil's label rate for BFR is 2 1/4 tsp/gal with no mention of area covered.
MFVO's label rate is 3 3/4 tsp/4 gal and states, "Apply this product in sufficient water to obtain uniform coverage of tree canopy, including the undersides of leaves, to the point of spray runoff. Mix the indicated rate of FRUIT TREE, VEGETABLE & ORNAMENTAL FUNGICIDE into each 4 gallons of water to be used for each application, generally sufficient to treat 200 square feet."
Echo's label rate is 3 1/8 - 4 1/8 pints in 20 to 300(full dilute rate) gal..
Given 1 pint = 96 tsp..
(4 1/8 pt. x 96 tsp) / 300 gal = 1.3 tsp/gal at the high end full dilute rate
(3 1/8 x 96) / 300 gal = 1.0 tsp/gal at the low end full dilute rate
Accounting for %A.I. in all 3 products in units of A.I. in a mix, by product (comparing apples to apples)-
Monterey = 0.278
Daconil = 0.67
Echo high end full dilute = 0.70
Echo low end full dilute = 0.54
In words, the MFVO rate is less than 1/2 of the Echo and Daconil rates and the Daconil and Echo rates agree with one another. I am wide open to corrections and comments and am very aware that it is possible I'm missing something here. That is why I am coming to you.
Humbly yours,
Michael |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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| The first thing I'd double check to eliminate or make sure of is that Monterey's was not in tablespoons. I always have to double check that, often with a magnifying glass given the tiny print on many containers and the closeness of the abbreviations. |
RE: Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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| bananas: appreciate the idea but it really is tsp and not Tbsp.. I checked that too early in the process as it is an easy mistake to make. Michael |
RE: Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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| A few things to consider- "Chlorothalonil, also known as tetrachloroisophthalonitrile, is a broad spectrum, non-systemic fungicide. Chlorothalonil-containing products are sold under the names Bravo, Echo, and Daconil. It was first registered for use in the US in 1966. In 1997, the most recent year for which data is available, it was the third most used fungicide in the US, behind only sulfur and copper, with some 12 million lbs used in agricultural alone that year.[1] Including non-agricultural uses, the EPA estimates that on average almost 15 million lbs were used annually from 1990-1996." One thing I found is that some "combination" fruit tree sprays contain 29% chlorothalonil and have label directions to use as a cover spray all season. But the Daconil label says to not spray it after petal fall. Your MFVO says to spray it on the leaves, so sounds like they think it's OK for a cover spray, too, but I'm not sure that's right. Cheaper combination sprays have captan (plus malathion and sevin), Monterey Fungus Fighter has propicanazole (Orbit), which is the most common fungicide cover spray used by commercial peach orchards. The way I do is paint the trunk with Dursban (I guess I'll have to buy Lorsban when I run out) with a paint brush to kill borers. Chlorothalonil when the buds swell, up to petal drop. Captan and Malathion after that, every two weeks or after a rain washes it off. Stop when fruit gets near to ripening. I am planning to get some Orbit (MFF) and a less stinky insecticide, but the above works good. I'm sure others here have different suggestions, as in several earlier stone fruit spray program threads. |
RE: Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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| eskota: thank you for the information. Through last season, I have been using Captan plus myclobutanil or thiophanate-methyl with very good success and thought I'd try Daconil (assuming it is a protectant) in place of the Captan for rotation purposes. The MFF would probably be better but, Daconil is easy to find and considerably cheaper. The good news is, my disease pressure has been very light as there are no other peach trees and only one almost dead plum tree for miles around, apparently there are no other alternate hosts either. Michael |
RE: Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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| I don't think you need nearby fruit trees to have brown rot, it is universal and omnipresent. The best thing about using Orbit (MFF) or Indar is that it allows you to take some chances to find out what the minimum fungicided input is. If brown rot shows up you can rescue the uninfected fruit and notch up the earlier sprays the following season. As I have said many times here, I have sites where all stone fruit used to rot but I've gotten control with a single ap. of Indar in mid-July. Just cleaning things up one time can sometimes do the trick. I almost never spray stonefruit closer than a month before harvest- try that with Captan! |
RE: Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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| H-man: last year was a thiophanate-methyl + mancozeb app. at pink and a myclobutanil + mancozeb app @ petal fall. Aside from the fruit drop possibly caused by the soil being extremely dry up to the time the leaves had just fully emerged , there were no disease problems at all. The previous year, I think the peach only had Captan up thru petal fall or shuck split (can't remember, kept lousy records) and had no disease problems. I trust what you and others have said about Orbit but can't decide at this point if I really need it, last spring was dry except during flowering and the previous spring was wet, wet, wet. Our summers are usually rather dry save a hellish rain storm or two. The post-infection ability of Orbit would be quite handy though. Maybe I'll learn the hard way and kick myself in the butt, maybe the blooms will all get frozen off this year like they very nearly did last year and I won't have to worry about BFR for another year. Michael |
RE: Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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| Here in the northeast, no fungicide is usually needed for blossum blight, which I think happens in very warm humid conditions- I've never seen it- at least on stonefruit. Asian pears sometimes get a kind of blossum blight. Here, I don't need to control fungus on stonefruit until mid-July. |
RE: Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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| H-man, just curious what you make of the question about use of chlorothalonil as a cover spray? I assume that it has been sprayed all season long on many crops, probably was recommended as a replacement for captan, for decades. Haven't seen anything that explains why not to use it that way, only what the Daconil label says. |
RE: Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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| I think it's about residue levels. In NY it's only to be used early, as I recall. You can always check Cornell guidlines on the net and they will have an explanation. It's titled Pest Management Guidelines for Commercial Tree-Fruit Production. |
RE: Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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| H-man: I take it your fungi issues crop up in the heat/rain/humidity of summer. We usually have heat in the mid 90s with about 50% RH by June and little too no rain from June on. So far, lucky me, never sprayed the peach past shuck split. Michael |
RE: Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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| The Cornell IPM's for peaches and plums both say- "2.2] The shuck split application is an important spray. Chlorothalonil (Bravo, Echo) provides a longer period of protection than either captan or sulfur, but do not use Chlorothalonil after shuck split." |
RE: Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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| Yeah, I usually spray my client's peaches with myclobutanyl at petal fall, but in spite of Cornell's directive, I've not seen any blossum blight on my own stonefruit that I spray with Imidan only. Never seen it on the many unsprayed trees around either. If we get some real heat around petal fall I'll probably take the necessary precautions. |
RE: Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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- Posted by olpea zone 6 KS (My Page) on
Wed, Feb 10, 10 at 14:36
| I wonder if the reason chlorothalonil is not labeled after shuck split (at least with the Echo/Bravo labels) is due to phytotoxicity concerns of repeated applications. Multi-site mode of action fungicides (captan, chlorothalonil) are frequently more phytotoxic than single-site (Si's and strobs). I'd think if the reason they prohibited chlorathalonil after shuck-split was due to PHI concerns they wouldn't allow such a short one for tomatoes, which is a zero PHI. That said, I've never seen any problem with chlorothalonil on peach foliage sprayed up to shuck split. However, I've had trouble with phytotoxicity on tomatoes at full rates. It's like spraying herbicide, after a few hours the leaves look droopy and eventually die. After a lot of trial and error, I've found that 1/4 of the recommended rate doesn't set the plants back. Hman, thanks for the link. I've heard you quote Cornell's spray guide, but until recently I didn't know it was online. |
RE: Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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| OK, Olpea, looks like we're both correct. Here's the quote from Cornell (my 2007 copy) describing chlorothalonil. "Users should pay strict attention to the timing of applications because improper use of this material (after shuck split on some crops) may result in phytotoxicity and unacceptable residue levels." Thanks for the headsup on tomatoe application. I was planning on using it on my tomatoes for the first time next year- I'm so sick of early blight just decimating my crop. My vegie garden is usually all organic. |
RE: Chlorothalonil rates, peach
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- Posted by olpea zone 6 KS (My Page) on
Thu, Feb 11, 10 at 15:34
| Yea, tomatoes get flamed with early blight pretty bad here too. At 1/4 the rate I've found chlorothalonil gives some protection. However, I prefer Ziram. It seems to give good protection without worrying about cooking the leaves. The drawback is it's got a week for PHI, so I can't spray it once tomatoes start to ripen. Strangely, the old heirloom Brandywine is much more tolerant to chlorothalonil than the newer hybrids. Maybe it has something to do with the leaves being so different. |
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