My question--is there any saving these trees? Once the leader head has been munched and any branches that have started are munched, will I see new growth in the spring? Also, what else can I do to protect from deer (a rifle is not an option, as I live in the city)?

No one said it would be easy but it can still be fun. Good luck!!

Here's a website with some deer prevention products. I like the motion activated water sprayer idea, but I haven't tried it...where I live now the battle is with squirrels, and only aviary wire cages keep them away from my plants.

http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/deer.html

Scott

Works for squirrels too! (So far!)

I mostly employ 2" x 4" x 6' fencing rings around my trees. I get double duty out of this system that I have adapted from necessity over the years. The small sized gap weave keeps out the rabbits, and the 6 foot height has kept the deer at bay for me. I don't rely on any rain washable sprays! So far, small newly hatched bunnies have left the tree trunks alone, by not messing with getting through while they are small enuff to do so. Apparently, their are plenty of other succulent greens enticing and satisfying them at that stage of the game. Their needs to be an appropriate diameter to the rings, depending on tree size, to keep the deer away from reaching over to munch. This is a steady upgrading process, but because I am constantly adding new trees, the rotational aspect is working out for me. Such as when I upgrade to larger sized rings. I usually start with a four or five foot height fence and smaller diameter, on smaller trees for my own accessibility, and upgrade from their as needed. I use cheap wire tent stakes to hold the tree rings down, which makes them easily removable as well.

An additional ploy of mine is utilizing T-post fence posts. I install 4 per tree at planting time (purchased via used/cheaply at farm auctions). These posts are spaced close enuff that a small buck deer cannot squeeze through to rake holy haities out of the tree trunks' bark during the fall rut. Yes, I used to have this happen too, but not any more. These T-post protectors also come in handy for when the fence rings are no longer being utilized, or have been temporarily removed. Yet another big advantage to doing this, is the ability to gently stake the trees to these posts. This is an absolute necessity here, or every tree I plant would be pointing to the North star from constantly prevailing spring and summer Southerly winds.

I haven't seen the need for the white plastic spiraled protectors yet using this system, but if the little mini varmints move in on me, I may have to readjust. However, I do wrap some tree trunks in the fall with a white trunk wrap made just for this, mostly as winter protection. As I understand it, the white color "MAY" help to delay budbreak somewhat for those of us in more Northerly climes. Which, ifso, could be extremely advantageous in skirting late frosts at bloomtime. Myself, I wouldn't use a darker colored product of any sort on the trunks just for this reason alone. Such as black plastic drain tubing, as I saw suggested elsewhere. I am planning on doing the white interior latex coat this upcomming season, especially since I have heard that it is a good borer protection method also.

Then their is also my newest addition to my arsenal. His name is "Chase" the fre-roaming beagle. Very aptly named if I may say so myself. Believe me, he is constantly looking forwards to the next varmint persuit!!!

Gotta fight a good fight...q3

My land is quite rural and adjoins a slough with a creek that wildlife of all types use as a freeway. I also have a spring that flows with open water all winter (even 20 below) that deer use for water when everything is frozen.

that said, I've had almost no damage over the years from deer, rabbits, or voles. Given that the amount of trouble some report from deer and mice is extensive I gave some thought to why I've seen so little.

I think the answer is 2 free roaming dogs and 1/2 dozen or so outside cats. our place is relatively unfriendly for the wildlife and they seem to avoid it. I've only seen deer in my fields a couple of times in 10 years and I KNOW there's lots of deer around here. A mouse on my land has a life expectancy of a few hours.

my dogs are outside at nite in summer but inside during winter nites. cats are always out.

just thought I'd share this as possible option for those suffering lots of tree damage.

Mark in MN

Here's what works in all but worst pressure areas and even works in those places except for mulberries, Asian pears and certain luscious apple varieties. By worst pressure area I mean a spot like where an old lady used to feed her herd with corn, building up a very dense population and than died and the corn stopped. The new owner of her property asked me to plant 50 fruit trees- more on this situation later.

Keepitlow's construction would really PMO if I had to deal with it every time I need to touch the tree (I would guarantee that it won't work for east coast squirrels or west coast ground squirrels). All I use is a 10' length of 5' tall, 14 gage fencing, a single stake of either heavy steel of usually 2X2", 8' tall pressure treated wood and make a ring for individual trees, hooking it closed with 2 or 3 wires from the fencing itself. You can easily open it to get to the trees in 3 seconds. 14 gage is stiff enough to stand on its own but easy enough to cut.

For rabbits I use a 2' tall, narrow ring of chicken wire if it's necessary but my vole protection is usually adequate (plastic spirals) to exclude rabbits as well. Rabbits (and voles) usually only go after apples and sometimes pears IME.

On the rare occasion this doesn't work- and most of my work is in a county that only allows bow-hunting and many million and billionaires who own the equivalent of their own private hunting preserves don't allow hunting so pressure is intense. I live a county up that allows shot gun hunting and the pressure, especially from bucks is not nearly so bad although it's bad enough.

OK, so here's the problem, my system is not for fully dwarf trees, but for free standing trees that are at the very least of M26 vigor. The point is to grow the tree above the brows line, letting the deer much branches that grow outside the fence and helping to train the trees up. I doubt anyone in a Z5 is growing a dwarf pear tree (that would be on quince, known not to be cold hardy); they would likely be on semi-dwarf stock and capable of rising above the browse line. The apples are another issue.

As far as the above mentioned extra high pressure areas, an extra 2 to 4' length of fencing and 2 or 3 more stakes may be required if the bucks decide to stand up on the fencing to browse. Fencing will also have to be very securely wired to posts (I put small notches in the wood. However, for some reason even starving deer don't usually do this, at least here in the southeastern NY area.

Thanks, Luke

By the way, all my experience is with white tails- mule deer are bigger and may need different specs on control structures.

Luke

Once the trees are mature 20' trees, I don't use fences but keep the bottom branches on so there is maybe 3' or less clearance under the tree. This is a pain for me as well but keeps the deer limited to browsing on the lowest growth and keeps them away from the trunk so they can't scratch it to pieces rubbing velvet off antlers. Some larger trees without low branches I circle just the trunk itself closely with chicken wire for protection from scratching.

I grow ground cover comfrey, Symphytum grandiflorum, under trees in my orchard. It is about the only gc I know that is tougher than grass and weeds, needs no care, is low enough to see apples easily, and forget it if you want to get rid of it. No weed-trimming, cutting, mowing.:-)