For non-ubiquitous and rare fruit, you can't go wrong with California Rare Fruit Growers:

http://www.crfg.org/pubs/frtfacts.html

Also, Purdue has great info on tropical and subtropical:

http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/index.html

RAW,

John Gordon E-book on nuts, persimmon ....in the link below.

Tony

Here is a link that might be useful: Infos on nuts

Tony:

I could use more links like that, very informative! Unfortunately I am not growing nuts, nor pawpaws. I'm sure some of the info applies to fruit trees as well... U don't have any of those articles on fruit trees do you?

Thanks,
Joe

Agajmano:

It seems like all your link are for warm climate tropicals... Still interesting. Thanks

Joe

Try Penn State's Fruit Production for the Home Gardener and Cornell's Guide to Growing Fruit at Home.

Scott

Scott:

Thanks, links are a good start! I noticed you space your trees 3' just to accommodate many varieties.. Do you have a orchard that's not for experiment with bigger trees? I have a 7x30 area running east/west, gets 6-8 hours sun... I would like to plant fruit trees to obtain the maximum yield for that space... How would you plant it? at least a rough idea(dwarf,semi,standard,pruning,spacing,etc). Don't mean to change subjects...

Thanks
Joe

Joe, I try to give trees I really like more room by removing trees around it. I now have many trees at 6' spacing, for example all my cherries are at 6' or so now. One advantage of spacing 3' is unless you get unlucky and have all the good varieties with other good and bad with other bad, you can do this selective removal over the years. For regular dense planting I think 6' is a good spacing. Note that your 7' is OK width for the tree itself but you also need a border area to walk in etc.

Scott

What Rootstock your cherries on? How about the majority of your trees? Do you have pictures? That would help me out a million!

Appreciate it,

Joe