Peach is no harder than most stone fruit but most are more challenging than pome fruit. I've had very good success with whip and tongue and T budding. I do W&T at bud break with dormant scion sticks. T budding works well as soon as the scion wood is mature enough to bud. When the color of the wood turns from green to red or brown the scion is ready. My success rate is about 80% with W&T and 50-90% with T budding.

Grafting is usually done on bigger wood. I like 1/4 to 2/3 inch with W&T. The smaller end of that for T budding. And bark or cleft grafting for the big stuff.

I air layered one branch on my beach tree. The branch was going to be cut any way because was getting in the way of a Fig tree. I cut circle around the bottom of the branch about 1 1/2 inch wide Rapped the cut with wet sphagnum mos with plastic rap around it. I did it for fun and experimenting but worked. I just sawed down the branch which has good healthy roots and plant it in a pot.I hope it will work to have another tree. If not I had fun doing it. I don't claim expertise in this art.

I have the most critical thing with grafting peaches is temperature they like it between 55-90 ideally 65-80 any lower and they wont callus and any higher and you risk cell damage. I have put a whole lot of peaches in to a nice warm greenhouse wraped in parafilm and never put any foil on them. They all failed miserably they just got to hot. Now that i use foil my success rate is up in the 90's with peaches and I use very simple methods like bark and cleft grafts. These work very well as long as you keep the temp right. I find that if the temperature is good peaches and other stone fruit take no longer to callus than pome fruit. The only stone fruit I have grafted and peaches and plums and pluots so far. But I find them all just as easy as pome fruit to work with.

Macman is right, the problem with peaches is how picky they are on temps to callous. They are much harder than plums or cherries and somewhat harder than 'cots. The type of graft doesn't matter based on my experience. Aluminum foil can be helpful since when the sun is shining on the wood it will keep the temps from getting too high (unless its a cold day, in which case you want the warmth and so don't want the foil on). Chip buds should be put on the north side of peaches in warm weather to minimize direct sun exposure. To succeed, always check the weather and look for highs in the low 80s and lows in the 50's for the next several days ahead; if thats not the weather wait for it. I usually do two rounds of peach grafting in two different periods due to the variability of the weather. Also do plenty of backups since peaches fail with a much greater rate than other grafts. I have had success rates in the last few years vary from 30% to 90%.

Scott

Thank you all. That is the kind of information I was looking for. I am novice and I have only one succesful T-bud (sweet cherry) and a side-veneer (plum) graft to my credit. I will be trying peach graft this summer using dormant scions. I am sure the input received here will help me.

I'm resurrecting an old post. Did I miss my chance to graft with dormant wood?

Here is a link that might be useful: Denver weather 10-day

Wait til its not high 90's and you should be OK. Its late to graft with dormant wood but it should work if the wood is still good.

Scott

Just thought of something. I have quite a few rootstocks in pots. Maybe if I put them in my garage, which stays cooler, I would be okay.