Thats pretty neat:)

Home orchardist?
Holy crap, seems like overkill to me, but im new to this.
I just plan on Immunox and Triazicide after petal fall.
At what point is it over protection?

I tend to agree with megamav. This is a good reference, but I don't know of any of us home-orcharders that spray that much. We have pretty high fungus and insect pressure here, so I spray Immunox, Triazicide, Kocide 3000, dormant oil, and Agristrep. That sounds like a lot, but many of those are sprayed in combination. This summer, I may do some Captan sprays to take control of my Sooty Blotch & Fly Spec problems. Even with that, I'll get complete control with 1/3 of the sprayings and 1/2 the chemicals of that reference. -Glenn

If you live where it is warm and humid, you have to spray on a regular bases or take heavy losses. You Northerners may not have to spray often but we in the South do and regular.

With an early spring apples are going seeing a lot of heat and humidity

glen. You listed 6 different chemicals. That is about the same average as the chart just sprayed at different intervals. Same chemicals, different times

Actually, unfortunately for me, on the RI coast, we do get a lot of humidity and all the associated fun (severe CAR, FB, Scab, SB, FS, etc) that goes along with it. In fact, our zone of 6b is actually the same 6b as northern Georgia. (Randy - you should include your zone to save us some research). In my conversations with others here on the forum, if I lived out west, I'm confident I could get away with less spraying. In VT's schedule, they're actually spraying 10 different sprays (Copper, oil, Immunox, permethrin, esfenvalerate, M-Pede, streptomycin, Captan, Thionex, Confirm), but for me, the significant issue is how often they spray them. I do agree that it's a good reference, in that it's nice to know you're spraying the right chemicals at the right times, but I'd argue that even in high pressure areas, you don't need such a variety of sprays in such high intervals as described by their schedule, to get complete control. Am I wrong? If so, are you southerners really spraying all 10 of those sprays, that often, to achieve control? Or have you identified and targeted your diseases and pests, and then minimized your spraying to handle all accordingly? There are similar schedules for orchards around here, yet I've found that not all of it was necessary to achieve great apples. I do agree that growing knowledge is subject to location (and that can't be enphasized enough), but I still stand with megamav, that for the home orchardist, that schedule is overkill.
-Glenn

I added my zone to my profile Glenn thanks for pointing that out.

Fruit rot is a significant and constant problem here in the deep South. You can not wait to see if you need to spray, you have to maintain a preventive spray program.

I also keep my fruit trees with open centers to get good spray coverage and quick drying.

Leaving here in the deep South has its bug and fungus problems but with then I have apple, peach, plum, pecan, lemon, orange, satsuma, and newly planted banana trees then throw in pineapples.

Here is a link that might be useful: My Georgia Home Orchard blog

Hey Randy-
Thanks for the zone, and nice blog! I wish I could grow citrus here. Agreed, spraying is always about prevention and you can almost never wait until you see symptoms. I too am pruning most of my trees to be open vase (centers). Yes, if we move beyond their apple schedule and discuss other fruits, I do need to spray at least once (Monterey Fungi Fighter) to prevent brown rot on my peaches or I'll loose 'em all. Happy Easter to everyone,
-Glenn

I use the same sprays Glenn does, but I don't know about Kocide 3000. I really enjoyed reading the spray sched. you posted. I have Captan on hand and didn't realize I had to spray my apricot, peach and nectarine with it at 'popcorn' or 'full bloom' stage. I was just going to use my Captan for sooty-blotch and flyspeck. I learn more and more every day from this forum! Mrs. G

Hi MrsG47-
The Kocide 3000 copper is sprayed with some sort of sticker (in my case, I just use dormant oil) to help with scab. It's sprayed probably just once right around 1/2" green. Some people here actually spray up to tight cluster without damage, but I don't want to recommend beyond the label. Kocide is also part of my fireblight protection. So, yes, the Kocide's duty does overlap with the Immunox(scab) and also the Agristrep (fireblight). The oil too has 2 jobs: the previously mentioned "sticker", and also for controlling scale and mites (which is why I do this spray as late as possible). I used to use Kocide at a rate of 2tbs /gal, but I've recently back it down to 1 tbs/gal. Even though copper is considered organic in many circles, it can eventually be toxic to earth worms. Then again, I'm only spreading about 2.5 tbs around my entire property per year, so I'm not too worried about it. If you're not spraying Agristrep, I'd definitely give your apples a spray of this so you at least have some FB protection. The bag that I bought will last me more than 2 lifetimes, so, since your local, let me know if you ever want some to try out. Best, -Glenn

Thanks Glenn. Once I get my spray schedule down pat I know it will be easier. Its just putting them on in the right order! Many thanks again to you and all.

Glenn: I'm about an hour west of you as the crows flies and follow a similar spray schedule. I do not however, use a mid to late season fungicide. I was under the assumption that my Kocide and Immunox applications would control most blights found in the Northeast. Is your Captan contained in an all purpose fruit spray such as Bonide, or do you put it on straight? How many applications and time of year?
By the way Glenn, there is no comparison between our humidity and N. Georgia. My In-Laws lived in Aiken SC, just across the Savannah River from Augusta, in the summer you can cut the humidity with a knife!

Hi Tuffametuffayou-

I guess it depends on what you mean by "most blights". If you mean fire blight: Even with my dormant Kocide 3000 sprays, I have still taken tip-strikes, especially when the summer is especially humid. It's for that reason I've started spraying Agristrep as well, (not a fungicide, but an antibiotic). The Immunox doesn't help with FB. Are there some other "blights" or diseases that you're referring to?

As for the captan... in the last few years, I've bagged all my apples. This does help with my Sooty Bloch and Flyspeck situation, but sometimes it's still inadequate. (Yes, I know you can wash it off, but when you have a SB, FS magnet... Granny Smith for example... and it's more black than green, then I find the family is not quite so interested in scrubbing it all off). Bagging also helps keep the deer away from them. But, this year I'm going to bag some (mostly to keep off the deer), and also spray Captan like I used to. I'm curious if the captan sprayed on the bags will keep any of the SB, FS off on the apple inside.

As for the type of captan, you may have seen my repetitive posts where I basically slam the All-In-One-sprays. If not, see the link below.

Bonide Fruit Tree Spray
Glenn - Has Purdue been reading your posts?

So, I'll be spraying straight Bonide Captan this summer.
Does that answer your question?
-Glenn

are people in America different than people in Canada?
are they poisoning people in USA but protecting us in Canada. does it mean people in Amerika mean nothing but we in canada are very important?

You guys can have and spray all those chemicals in america but here in Ontario we can not buy any of those fruit tree sprays.
Can I say you guys are lucky because you can spray and protect some of your fruit trees while here in ontario I would be fined if I spray Wilson Fruit Tree Spray.