Best time to spray is right before the rain, second best time is just right after the rain. I do not know the Bonide Fruit and Nut spray, but if there is any pesticide in it, then do not spray during bloom. I expect you know that, but worth repeating.

If that's the product I think it is, Bonide's "natural" all-purpose spray, it does indeed contain insecticides and must not be sprayed during bloom.

Fungicides intended for use on rust and scab can generally be applied at full bloom, but you should read the Bonide label before even posting this question. If it is, in fact, an all purpose pre-mix (good for nothing, in the case of Bonide, IMO) the label will explain how to use it and what all it allegedly controls.

I suggest you search this site for recent questions on spray programs- I believe you will quickly find important info.

Thank you all! I thought Bonide Fruit and Nut spray was a fungicide only, but it turns out it's also an insecticide. Upsetting to learn since the sales person told me otherwise. Do you have recommendations on a fungicide to use?

Also, I meant to say I do have Monterey Liquicop Copper Fungicide. Would that work during full bloom? Thank you much!

Did you read the label on that copper?

For apples, Immunox (myclobutinal )is probably your best option and you may need to go to the internet for it. As long as you get it on by petal fall and once more 2 weeks latere it should be more than adequate.

Please check advice given here within last 5 weeks regarding spray schedule.

Be aware there are two formulations of Immunox, and one contains insecticide. The right one is currently labeled "for gardens"

Since you can get Bonide products, their Fung-onil [chlorothalonil] is also a choice.

Thank you all! I was hoping to use products I already owned to spray, but I see now I should just buy the right product. Is this the correct one that doesn't have insecticide?
http://www.amazon.com/Spectracide-51000-Multi-Purpose-Fungicide-Concentrate/dp/B0035H0RA8/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1398621847&sr=1-1&keywords=Immunox

And harvestman, thank you for directing me to the spray schedules. I did look at them but wasn't able to follow them exactly because I didn't have the same products. I'll just buy them and use the correct products though.

Thank you!

Clorathalinal is not active against apple scab and cedar apple rust and is primarily used for stonefruit in the orchard-although it can't really be used for brown rot because the label won't let you spray late enough. Great for peach leaf curl and peach scab though.

Harvestman - Thank you for your input! I looked at your spray schedule post, and seems that you use Immunox as a fungicide. Is there another fungicide you suggest?

Thank you!

written - that's the right formula of immunox

Hman - you surprise me. Cornell lists chlorothalonil for scab and CAR, although preferring propiconazole.

ltilton,

Can you link the Cornell page where they mention chlorothalonil for apple scab and CAR?

Chlorothalonil is not labeled for apples in any formulation I'm aware of. There isn't even a Maximum Residue Limit (MRL) of chlorothalonil for apples, which would indicate it's not approved for use on apple. All pesticides have an MRL for labeled fruits.

I believe Cornell's rec to use the product on apples is either a misprint, or they are referring to ornamental crab apples (Chlorothalonil is labeled for ornamental crabs.)

You are quite right, of course, olpea. The reference was to ornamental crabapples. My mistake.

Well, I learned something. I assumed that because I've never, in over 25 years of commercial spraying, heard of using Bravo on anything but stone fruit in an orchard that it wouldn't be affective on anything in the orchard but stone fruit. I am quite surprised that such a widely used fungicide wouldn't have received approval for use as an early apple fungicide if it works and is approved for treating CAR and scab in crabs.

I learn something new every day and forget something and a half.

The thing is, before I started using Immunox in 2011, chlorothalonil is what I was using for CAR and scab.

I didn't use captan, because of the oil spray. Didn't use lime sulphur or copper after green tip. Somehow, I got the idea that chlorothalonil was what to use, but now I can't exactly recall where I saw that.

I use Immunox now because I think it's the best product available to me, but not because I ever saw anything about chlorothalonil not being used for apples.

The assumptions we make ...

Thank you all for your very helpful input! I ordered the Immunox and it just arrived tonight. The label doesn't mention any temperature limits or how long to wait to spray after rain (it only says to respray if it rains after spraying).

I would like to spray tomorrow night, when it would be about 50 degrees and 12 hours after a long rain. Is this OK?

Thank you much!

I never respray myclo (Immunox) after raining beyond the normal cycle. It cannot wash off and once it sets is not affected by rain. That label seems odd to me- it must mean if it rains shortly after spray- the fungicide is a systemic and within an hour of good drying conditions penetrates the tissue of a tree where it can't be washed off.

It could also mean that you don't need to spray again until rain makes fungicide necessary- but that wouldn't be for almost 14 days later when you factor in kick back and post spray protection.

I have been using a 10-14 day interval, rain or shine, for over 20 years with that stuff, many sites, many, many susceptible trees and always get the bad guys.

You don't have to worry about temp- with oil you don't want to spray anything green close to either side of a freeze but that's on the label. With most pesticides, cool temps don't matter.

Scab is clearly visible in my apple orchard but we are in full bloom stage. Can we spray any systemic fungicide at this stage as bloom is at its peak?