Timing, timing, timing.

I assume the Arkansas Black is a spur type. You don't have to do anything to those kind.

I'm not sure if it's a set time based on your weather or a set time based on when the fruit is ripe because so far I only have one tree that wanted to go all tree and no fruit, but on that tree, pruning for spurs happens mid to late August, about the same time as the fruit is ripe.

I've heard from an extension's Youtube video to prune in early summer or spring to cause spurs, that the sunlight has something to do with it. That has not been my experience. That leads me to believe it has something to do with the individual tree and when they fruit.

IMO, M111 as an espalier will desire to grow bigger than what you want and it will take a long time to convince it that it had better fruit because something is keeping it from growing big enough.
My Arkansas Black is semi-dwarf and never flowered until I let it go. It took about 5 years to fruit.
My dwarf espaliers fruited the second year.

I would try pinching the shoots back late summer.

BTW, this exact topic is why I found my way to Gardenweb.

I think it was Jellyman's recommendation for late summer pruning and it took three years but the tree I was having problems with was loaded this year.

Thanks.

Should I wait to cut back the growth until August, and then cut it back to 2-3 buds?

I understand what you are saying about individual trees and the M111. I'm patient on the fruiting, plus the squirrels get them anyway.

Robert

Or pinch the tips. I like a bushier espalier and more fruiting points so I pinch the tips.
My tree picked up this problem later in life so it can handle the weight and I hope overloading it with fruit will help burn up some of its energy.