Thapranksra,

Do you have another plum tree for cross pollination? If not and that may be the problem.

Tony

I would think that if you'd oversprayed, your trees would have shown leaf damage.

Incomplete pollination is the better bet.

The spray probably won't knock the fruits off. It would likely burn the leaves first.

Usually it's lack of pollination or spring freeze. I've never lost more than a few to insects or critters. Fertilizer won't improve fruit set.

Peach and Asian pear are self pollinating. Also both plums are partially self fertile and blooms also overlapped. I think that the Spring freeze as fruitnut mentioned might have been the culprit. I might have made a rookie mistake in spraying late in the evening when the weather was scheduled to freeze that night. It probably made matters worse. Next time, I will take my chance with the bugs if I am running late in spraying.

What is the age of your trees? Brady

I planted them all as whips in 2012. This was the first year any one of the J. Plum and A. pear fruited.

I planted them all as whips in 2012. This was the first year any one of the J. Plum and A. pear fruited.

That is still kind of young.They may take another year to get bigger to hold the fruit.Sometimes it seems like a tree knows when it's ready. Brady

I agree w/ Brady. It's not uncommon for young trees to abort fruit. What did the temps get down to after petal fall?

The days before I sprayed and soon after petal fall, the lowest it dipped down to was 41F. I was waiting for full shuck split on the peach tree (Redhaven) before I sprayed all the fruit trees. Anyway, the night before and actual night I sprayed the temp dipped down to 36F and 31F respectively.

The main reason I feel something wrong might have happened this year was that the Peach tree had much more fruit last year. The bugs caused premature drop of most of them but this was after I had thinned and they had all gotten a pretty decent size, maybe the size of a quarter. This year they disappeared while being maybe half the size of a dime.

Pranksta,

It could be the cold. As you know 31F is getting close to MSU critical temps for post bloom stone fruits.

Still, the trees have completed only a couple growing seasons. I've had trees pretty inconsistent until they're in their 4th leaf.

I don't think you caused the drop.

Thanks for the info/advice guys. Hopefully I get a few A. Pears and a better crop on everything next year. I will keep you all tuned in. ;-)

I got new Peach trees planted. I'm using Nickel plus foliage spray trying to avoid the problems you having, be year before no out come. like been said once roots well out soil they pickup nickel they need its only very small amount Ni needed spraying foliage twice year all need. 3ppm is low in leaf 5 ppm to 15 ppm is good. Searching nickel plus bring in a lot on Pecans and sandy soil, but I think important read all find on web about product.

Gator,

My understanding Ni deficiency is not a widespread phenomenon. As you point out, it has mainly to do w/ pecans, showing up as mouse ear mainly in TX. Most soils have plenty of Ni. More often Ni toxicity (too much Ni) is the problem vs. Ni deficiency.

I would strongly caution anyone against applying a heavy metal to their soil or plants unless they have done soil testing or leaf testing to confirm the deficiency.