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Need a Fungicide

Posted by kiger Ohio (My Page) on
Tue, May 29, 12 at 14:27

This is my first year spraying and I spray with Neem + Fish Fertilizer + Surround. However, this doesn't take care of the fungus aspect and I just noticed what looked like CAR on my apple leaves.

I have narrowed it down to Myclobutanil or Lime Sulfur for my choices and have a couple questions:

1) Is Lime Sulfur safer than Myclobutanil? Sometimes when I spray the wind picks up and I get some on my body. If that happens with one of these I would prefer it to be the lesser toxic of the two.

2) Will either interact with neem oil or fish fertilizer? I thought I read somewhere that the lime sulfur will kill the good bacteria so it would cancel out the benefits of the neem and fish? Is this true? Is it also the case with Myclobutanil? If so, maybe I should alternate and spray one week with the fungicide and the other week with the neem and fish? I need some advice in this area.

3) Any other advice you want to give me I would highly appreciate it!


Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Need a Fungicide

Oh I almost forgot, I have apple, pear, and cherry trees. I also have lots of blueberry bushes, raspberry, and blackberry bushes. Finally I have the obligatory rose bushes. So it would be nice to find a fungicide that I can just spray on everything and be done with it.

RE: Need a Fungicide

Only spray Lime sulfur in dead of winter you kill a plant by spraying lime sulfur in green stage of plant. I'll leave Myclobutanil (NOVA) to others Its been several year my last use nova.

RE: Need a Fungicide

If your problem with CAR requires control, myclobutanil is your best option. CAR needs to be controlled when weather is cool and if you are concerned about any contact, cover yourself. I wear a thick cotton cover-all over thin cotton clothes, plastic hat and boots with goggles and mask and a small t-shirt draped over my head to protect my neck and cheeks- but I put down hundreds of gallons of spray.

The label only calls for covering your eyes and body so there's plenty of farmers pulling mist blowers and breathing and living in a fog of this and much more toxic stuff all day long. They are my beloved canaries and as a group are remaining healthier than average americans with fewer cases of cancer and longer life expectancies. You are in constant contact with carcinogenic chemicals, at a higher level from fire retardents in your sofa. Get out of the house and tend your trees and I bet you live longer no matter what you spray.

One spray of myc. at petal fall and one more 10-14 days later should control it.

RE: Need a Fungicide

I should have mentioned that I don't know about the compatibility issues although a problem is unlikely, but you can spray a small branch and see what happens after a few days.

I don't think there's any reason to be spraying the blueberries with any fungicide and the timing to help with cherry issues is different than CAR on apples.

RE: Need a fungicide

sulfur is low toxic ( but precotions must be taken) than myclobutanile but myclobutanile is must efficient (scab, mildew, rust) while rus only on powdry mildew not combine sulfur with oil or spray it within one week of spraying oil, do not spray sulfur in hot weather, spray fertilizer alone (much better), using a combination of mancozeb plus trifloxistrobine have a wide spectrum but remember the ideal timing to spray for each tree desease.

RE: Need a Fungicide

Serenade Max - organic option

RE: Need a Fungicide

I use myclobutanil with the brand name Immunox. I spray fruit trees the same schedule Harvestman suggests. Very effective on CAR. I have apple, peaches, cherries, plum and pears. (Immunox does not list pear on its label).

Immunox also works well on roses against black spot, powdery mildew and rust but the strength of the spray for roses is double the one for fruit trees. Read the label.

I have 16 rose bushes.

RE: Need a Fungicide

Hman, well said!!


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