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honeycrisp apple trees

Posted by Madailey 3 (My Page) on
Thu, May 8, 14 at 15:17

i just bought my first two honeycrisp trees in memorial of my uncle. i am terrified to plant them after reading some posts. one of them will be in a north facing back yard and the other will be out in the open on an acreage. any tips offered will be much appreciated.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: honeycrisp apple trees

Fence them well with fence that will last 5-10 yrs. keep them watered. Wrap the truncks to keep rabbits/voles from girdling them over the winter, especially if you have extended snow cover. Full sun with open space is best. You may need more than one tree per location if you expect fruit. They need a pollinator to fruit. Those are the big things, assuming your soil is decent, well drained. Small wip trees seem to establish better than large root balled "pretty" trees over the long haul. Keep the suckers down immediately when you see them. They suck the life out of your large stem and can take over if left unchecked. Enough for now. Keep reading!

RE: honeycrisp apple trees

My Honey Crisp has given me a lot of grief due mainly to my ignorance. It was one of my first fruit trees. Rookie's mistake a plenty. For example, buying a potted tree without knowing its rootstock, not knowing about pruning until the tree has gotten quite out of hand, etc.

Apple trees needs a different variety to cross pollinate. Two of the same variety you have do not work. If you or your neighborhood have crab apple trees, that'll work.

Plant them in full sun. Start reading old posts on this forum. Don't be afraid to ask again.

RE: honeycrisp apple trees

you need to read about cedar apple rust and take preventative measures or you will loose the one on the acreage for sure. You won't get apples if you don't have another variety to pollinate. It will take 4-8 year for apple on HC anyway. Something like a Fireside is a good one to mate with. You can buy the Fireside next year and it will still flower before the HC. Better to buy trees bare root mail order then at a store in a pot

RE: honeycrisp apple trees

Plant them in well drained soil and make sure they have adequate moisture during the growing season. Check there progress as often as reasonably possible. Stop worrying, you already have the trees, as issues arise come back here and we'll address them.

Any possible foliar diseases will evidence themselves very soon- better to find out what you need to control before blanketing the trees with fungicide proactively.

You might want to check for simple instructions about training young apple trees- the internet is full of helpful pictorials on the subject.

RE: honeycrisp apple trees

I planted honey crisp May 2007 and rootstck is according to the label, M9. two years ago I saw about 8 blossoms and had 2-3 fruit start to mature. I think I picked one half diseased bug eaten apple. last year I had a good number of blossoms and picked maybe 10 mangey looking fruits. Taste was great however.. This year I hope to have many blossoms and many fruit.

Lessons I learned: you can screw this up and delay fruiting by not knowing what you are doing(pruning wise). However, not likely to kill the tree. Due to strange reasons, I did not fertilize for a number of years. Once I fertilized, the tree took off. Coincidence or not? I doubt it. Spray is also important, something I still have not mastered. Though my fruit looked horrible one bite told you it was a honey crisp.

Plant the trees, do your best, and keep at it. Great advice given so far. One more thing, your soil may have a "favorite rootstock". Out of M7, M9, M26, the M26 appears to be best for me. This may have to do with the actual tree variety though I am not certain. I also noticed pears do much much much better in my soil than anything else. The OHxF either 87 or 97 have been winning combinations in my orchard. 33 is also pretty good. Maybe more than you wanted to hear but hopefully some good info.

RE: honeycrisp apple trees

thank you so soooo much for all of your help. i am deffinately glad i asked

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