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| I saw the other post about pruning grapes and thought I might ask about mine. I already pruned mine for the year. I am trying to grow it on an arbor and so far I've let it grow to the top and branch out on three stems last year. This year, I trimmed it back to the top of the main trunk where it should branch out. The issue I have is that it is growing on a temporary metal support that looks like this might be the last year it will do the trick, it's rusting. I am hoping to construct a new arbor of wood in the fall. Since this year's growth will be next year's fruit, I'm wondering if there is any way I can prepare before I have a lot of growth that has to be cut back to accommodate a new arbor? Not the best angle to see the structure of the vine, but if you can't see it, I can try to get a couple more photos tomorrow. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by prairiemoon2 zone 6a/MA (My Page) on Mon, May 26, 14 at 17:37
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| It's hard to give advice on a vine with that many stems. If you can save 2-4 of this yrs canes all the others can be cut off next winter and still produce in 2015. The main thing to know is you can't permanently ruin a grapevine. No matter what you do you can recover and have fruit in a yr or two. You can change the shape or whatever and they just grow back. So I won't sweat it now. |
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- Posted by prairiemoon2 zone 6a/MA (My Page) on Tue, May 27, 14 at 7:00
| So if I plan to grow it on an arbor, is it better to train it to one main stem that grows from the ground to the top of the arbor and then allow a certain number of stems to branch out across the top? And once the arbor is covered with branches, what do I cut off every year? I don't have to cut everything back to the main stem every season, right? |
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| One stem, trunk, is good but several will work just as well. In your climate winter kill shouldn't be an issue so I'd probably go one trunk. Once the vine is on top the system you use is dependent on how much area needs coverage vs how much the canes grow each year. The simplest system is to prune like you would a normal vine. Head off your trunk in the middle of the arbor. Hopefully you then get at least 4 canes off the head. Position as needed for coverage. Those canes bear the next year. The following winter prune back as much as possible while still retaining 4 new canes for fruit the next year. The difference between normal and on top of arbor is how the canes are positioned. Normal they run down wires in two directions. On the arbor the canes are positioned so new growth covers area needed. They may pinwheel out from the head. You might have two heads depending on shape of arbor and area needing coverage. Once you get the feel for it pruning grapes is a lot easier than describing it. |
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- Posted by prairiemoon2 zone 6a/MA (My Page) on Tue, May 27, 14 at 10:01
| LOL I get that, not easy describing it. :-) Well, I don't have to prune it this year and since you answered my original question about replacing the arbor in the fall, I think I'll just wait until it's time to prune next year and the new arbor is up and then post photos with questions. Thanks! :-) |
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