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| I bought some admittedly cheap blueberry bushes at Home Depot about three years ago and continue to be disappointed in them. Some details: History: - I can't recall the variety I purchases, but they were slightly smaller than they are now 3 years later. I have 4 planted on a fence line. I know they don't require the "cross pollination" other varieties specifically call for. Currently: - This year they looked much better coming out of winter, seemed to be more foliage and faster. They aren't getting very big still (I remember label said they would get 4ft tall). Pics are available here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ylkie981sm7cwtb/2014-06-10 07.29.07.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/9rnsuxjkgdo1e3d/2014-06-10 07.29.14.jpg Are there any ideas? Are the discolored leaves a problem? I thought they were a different color because they were new growth, but doesn't seem so now. Same reason they aren't getting bigger and no fruit? Appreciate the help...just looking for some blueberry pancakes :) |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| What's your soil pH? |
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| You need the proper soil pH which in Virginia shouldn't be too hard. Then they need regular nitrogen fertilizer to get some growth. Not just any fertilizer but one for acid loving plants: Hollytone, cottonseed meal, 21-0-0 = ammonium sulfate, or a controlled release. I just bought some Gertens 24-5-10 acid loving from Amazon. |
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| "I just bought some Gertens 24-5-10 acid loving from Amazon." Thanks for pointing that out in another thread I like using the CRF type products, very cool one for acid lovers! I agree looks like a PH issue. |
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| I have been giving them hollytone each spring including the last one. I don't know the pH of my soil, I need to pick up a tester. |
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- Posted by BlueberryHillsFarm (My Page) on Tue, Jun 10, 14 at 15:26
| I would get some iron sulfate. It acts quickly. It's more expensive than sulfur but for 4 plants it's no big deal. Take note of the leaves in the upper part of the photo that are light green/yellowish with dark veins. That is iron chlorosis caused by high ph. |
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| ok. I'm going to stop by and get a tester as well as the Iron Sulfate. Will make sure to test before treating. |
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- Posted by WrittenOnWater N. VA 7a (My Page) on Tue, Jun 10, 14 at 16:37
| I once thought about growing blueberries, but gave up after I discovered that Virginia clay tends to have a high pH (around 8), while blueberries need a pH of 4-5. I love blueberries, but the soil amendments would've been too much to keep up long term. I suggest growing raspberries instead... |
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| Don't waste your money on one of the cheap pH testers at the big box stores. They're notoriously unreliable. To get an accurate reading, I'd suggest sending a soil sample to a lab. The UMass Soil Testing lab is one of the more affordable options. |
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| Well, I stopped by Lowes on the way home and picked up a soil tester and tried to get some iron sulfate, but they didn't have anything. They of course had hollytone, but then they also had this: http://www.amazon.com/Espoma-GSUL6-Soil-Acidifier-6-Pound/dp/B0063ZDQ66/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1402443778&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=emposa+soil+acid which showed 30% sulfate. I understand it is slower release, but it was all I could lay my hands on in the next few weeks with work, travel with family, etc. I got home and used the soil tester on some tap water (town water) and it did come up at 6. I then followed the procedure and pulled a plug of dirt, mixed it into some mud and tested. It showed between 7-8 (see photo) as you all suspected. The bag said 2.5 cups per plant under the drip line. I put almost 3 under each. I'm concerned it isn't enough or will need a ton each year. Should I consider peat moss or pine needles as a top cover for the bed now and each year? Should I add more product? I'm concerned I could over do it with the product although the ph appears to be double what it should be Thanks again for the help. |
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| Jeeden, It looks like Sulfur is one of the main ingredients in that Espoma product.It will most likely work,but will probably take months to do so.I'd not add any more right now.There is a possibility of overdoing it. Peat moss isn't really a good mulch.Your Pine needles will be okay,but they won't bring the pH down.I use Pine bark mulch,which to my present understanding doesn't affect pH too much either. Brady |
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- Posted by BlueberryHillsFarm (My Page) on Wed, Jun 11, 14 at 9:16
| I doubt your soil is 7-8 or your blueberries would be much worse than they are. Yours still have some green to them, at 7-8 they will be yellow except for the veins. We get iron sulfate in 50# bags but you should be able to find it at a nursery. If not I would explore using vinegar to lower the ph. Others here have had success with that. I don't think any city tap water is 6.0. The city will raise the pH of the water because acidic water corrodes the pipes and leaches lead. |
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| Since the "soil acidifier" you put down contains sulfur, it will lower soil pH, over time. The process depends on bacteria that live in the soil. They have to metabolize the sulfur, and release acid into the soil. It is a slow, and reliable way of lowering soil pH. It will take 12 months to 24 months for the process to be completed, so you should not add any additional sulfur during that interval. If your local irrigation water is alkaline, you can add some 5% vinegar to lower the pH, but only if you are able to measure pH and confirm the correct dilution. Our City of Madison tap water has pH around 7.6, and it takes 12 fluid ounces of 5% white vinegar to treat 4 gallons of water, which results in pH around 5. To be successful with blueberries, you will have to come up with a good way to measure water pH and soil pH. I use bromocresol green indicator dye, but I used to use a portable pH meter made by Hanna Instruments. I am not aware of any soil testing lab that is using a metal probe type "pH tester." If you keep your blueberry shrubs watered, the leaves should green up in 30 to 60 days. |
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