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| Or know of a source of detailed information? Many documents mention whip grafting, wedge grafting, cleft grafting, and use of scion and stock ~1/2-inch diameter. Shield budding I believe is mentioned too. I see no mention though of how to deal with a large-leafed evergreen with abundant terminal (tip) growth as grafting scions, or how to deal with buds for budding (e.g., older dormant buds on long twigs?). I don't believe the best season is mentioned either. I have successfully whip-and-tongue grafted two thinner stocks and scions, but lost two others, and even then had to have the grafts fairly well shaded, 2/3rds of the leaf lengths trimmed away, and inside a clear plastic bag with some water droplets, all to avoid dehydration. How do the "production" grafters do it? How do other backyarders do it? Thanks |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by yukkuri_kame Sunset 19 / USDA 9 (My Page) on Tue, Jun 4, 13 at 4:39
| I am interested in the answers, though for myself I mostly plan on just letting my loquat seedlings grow to maturity without grafting. In my experience, loquats breed fairly well true from seed. And they don't take all that long to reach maturity, relative to other fruits. I've got about 5 seedlings going, and just planted about 20 seeds from this year's fruit crop. |
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| gb, Are you grafting onto loquat seedlings or quince? Had a chance to sample my first loquats, while visiting my son in Tallahassee, back first of last month. I got the bug. |
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- Posted by gonebananas 7/8 (My Page) on Tue, Jun 4, 13 at 20:22
| It's actually easier for me to get plants or scions from improved selections than seeds from them, so I am going for grafting. Good luck with the seedlings. The many ornamentals around here have such a great variability in size and taste that I was a bit wary as to how closely fruit quality runs from seed. Lucky, |
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| Thanks, p. I'll touch base with you off-list. I've got some seedling quince, grown from *supposedly* non-astringent middle-eastern selection - I've had good success just sticking pencil-diameter prunings in the ground before they break dormancy in the spring, with high rooting/survival rates. Not sure if that's a feature of the species itself, or just the fact that these are still in their juvenile phase, and root readily as a result. |
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