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Tue, Jun 26, 12 at 19:31
| I'm looking to try growing PA Golden. From what I can find, it looks like PawPaw isn't going to be compatible with any other fruit trees, right?
The question is:
Will this be viable long term? I'm hoping to avoid having to keep two PawPaw trees alive for my experiment. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| That should be fine if it is growing well. I have a Pennsylvania Golden with a Peterson pawpaw grafted onto it as you describe. I also have Wilson with a different Peterson grafted to it. I assume they both started on seedlings as rootstock. The grafts were done whip and tongue probably in mid spring and took just fine. Because I expect to prefer the Peterson pawpaws (which at the time were very hard to procure), I prune to favor them. |
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- Posted by alexander3 6 (My Page) on Tue, Jun 26, 12 at 21:16
| Even if one of the varieties starts to decline by getting shaded out or whatever, you can regraft it to another branch. |
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| jplay, In february we located a group of pawpaws and translplanted them bare root in early spring, in this 'case', since things warmed up so fast. They're all doing well, stick with small trees, 4' and smaller. The roots from all the trees were connected, clonal source. I' look forward to grafting the peterson's varieties sometime soon. good luck |
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| The Peterson varieties are patented. I bought a couple of scions directly from Neal Peterson. Now that the trees are available from a variety of sources, I don't think he'll be selling any more individual scions. I know he was very protective of them after the work he put into it. |
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| I'm in zone 4b and my main concern is the hardyness of the grafts themselves. I've heard from two different folks up here that they had no success on grafted paw paws. Instead each had success with either the rootstock (sucker) surviving and producing, or with seedlings surviving, growing, and expecting production this year or next. |
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| Grafting pawpaw is pretty simple. I've found the whip and tongue to work the best. I think the key is to graft onto an established tree that is just beginning to break dormancy. I'm in zone 5a and grafts seem to survive just fine here. Maybe wrap the union in parafilm, that might help. We have a pawpaw orchard in its infancy with 30 plus trees also a new variety that me and my wife discovered recently called Halvin. Clifford England will have this variety available for 2013. We discovered it St. Joseph, MO. which is about an hour from where we live. The fruits ripen very well here and are enormous,near 1 lb. The largest fruits we've found in all our years of pawpaw hunting also amazing flavor with no aftertaste. It might do great in your zone. |
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| Treebird, is your variety early? |
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| Well I found pawpaws to ripen differently in different conditions, for instance in direct sun light compared to growing in the shade. Also hot summer compared to a cool summer. The same goes for most fruit. Halvin is from zone 5b and we picked fruits generally the first part of September to the end of September for some fruits. Halvin hasn't fruited in full sun yet because the trees were only grafted this year. The fruits are the largest we've ever come across in the wild and from a more northern region and large fruit can usually take longer to ripen but Halvin ripens completely on the tree starting the first part of September. Generally the further north you get as with all things nut and fruit, generally are smaller do to shorter growing/ripening season. But Halvin ripens generally average in time for its size in our region from my observation. The earliest ripening discoveries we've found were all from trees that had exposure to full sun, which also makes the fruit taste sweeter in my opinion. I would say try it in full sun, if it is as great as it is growing in the shade it should be outstanding growing in full sun but keep in mind pawpaws should be shaded the first two years. |
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| Pawpaw orchard in its infancy |
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| Young pawpaw trees need protection from direct sunlight the first 2 years. |
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| What trees will look like in another year of growing. bear with me things have been rough with the drought this year. |
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- Posted by armyofda12mnkeys 7a Phila, PA (My Page) on Fri, Aug 10, 12 at 17:03
| Does anyone have pics of how pawpaw fruit look like when they are just starting to take form, like just lil' 1centimeter long. I went to 2 parks this weekend and saw clusters of lil' 1cm green fruit on trees that their leaves I was pretty sure were pawpaws, plus they were growing close to some creeks which i heard pawpaws do sometimes. But the fruit I thought was pretty small for around August 1st (i would assume they would be in the inches area), and they kinda tasted like an evergreen when I bit into it (but most things taste acidic i guess when they unripe hehe). Any pics anyone of how their fruit is looking now? |
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- Posted by alexander3 6 (My Page) on Fri, Aug 10, 12 at 21:40
| armyofda12mnkeys, I suspect the small fruit you found were spicebush. They grow in the same kind of places as pawpaws, and the leaves are similar in appearance (search google images) Spicebush leaves have a nice odor like some kind of spice when crushed, pawpaw leaves smell kind of bad. Pawpaw fruit should be much larger than 1 cm by now, even small fruited wild plants. They should look pretty much like a fully formed fruit, just smaller. The spicebush fruit will turn bright red this fall. Here is a document with an article on hand pollination of pawpaws that includes a photo of a newly formed fruit cluster. http://www.clemson.edu/hort/peach/pdfs/FG97.pdf Alex |
Here is a link that might be useful: newly formed pawpaw fruit
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- Posted by armyofda12mnkeys (My Page) on Sun, Aug 12, 12 at 1:08
| Cool thanks alexander for the headsup on spicebush. Darn I'll have to look more harder for pawpaws then :). |
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- Posted by persimmonbob 6b (My Page) on Sun, Aug 12, 12 at 20:42
| The tree's i bought from Keeling do have a good root ball,but it is not what i like because it does not have taproot and that is what i am looking for, because of droughts in my area.The 2 tree's are growing but not fast. Keeling graft my tree's with the splice graft.Treebird you are doing the right way,the way you set-up your tree's,nice spacing.You know you going to fill-up rather quickly. |
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| True true bob. I can understand but Ive had great success with Forrest Keeling Nursery trees. I have several other trees in other areas from other suppliers who sent bare root trees and they survived quite well and flurished but it seems like they took twice as long to get established. I think the key is water water water for the first two years. |
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| My tree spacing in the orchard for the pawpaws is 12 ft by 20 ft. My persimmons are 20 by 20. |
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- Posted by persimmonbob 6b (My Page) on Mon, Aug 13, 12 at 15:51
| I would sooner plant seed's in the area where they are going to grow permanent.You can start that way or start the seed's in long skinny planters like this picture. |
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