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aacharley

Advice on apple espalier please

aacharley
9 years ago

I have a spot next to the house foundation where I would like to plant two apple trees to espalier. My question is about the possible danger of the roots invading the joints in the stone foundation. I don't believe I have cracks there now but don't want to cause any.

I expect to use dwarf trees and only let it get to about four feet in height with about four foot long arms. Will the restricted growth limit the vigor of the roots?

Another question is about using the air pots in the ground to limit the root size and thickness. If that would work in could be a solution. Any advice would be appreciated.

Comments (3)

  • myk1
    9 years ago

    I don't know about the roots. It's possible, they're powerful things, but a lot of the root invasion legends (like sewer pipes) are bordering on myths, they don't go where things are dry. Like with sewer pipes the damage has to be there for the roots to be attracted. Your blocks shouldn't have moisture in them. Your foundation should have a space of material that doesn't hold moisture.
    Of course foundations crack, mud clogs the tiles and basements get wet. Sewer pipe joints wear out and seep. When that happens roots sure won't help.
    I've had a large (fake) butternut tree extremely close to my sewer pipe (they really screwed this place up the way they ran it so I really have no choice) for 25 years without an issue.

    I think you'd run into a problem in zone 6 where it would be too hot against a wall and the above mentioned moisture avoiding building techniques would compound that issue.

    4' is pretty short. Convincing the tree to be that small may be an issue. Maybe there's a super dwarfing rootstock that would be OK for that. I originally went with 5', 3 tiers. Then 6', 4tiers.

    One thing I've figured out is get spur bearers for apple espaliers. They seem more willing to stay to size and bear once the tree is convinced. Tip bearers or ones that go with short lived spurs are a pain to keep up with, and they can decide to give up fruiting.

  • aacharley
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    The house was built in 1940. I'm not sure what, if anything, was used for a moisture barrier. The foundation is cut irregularly sized blocks of limestone with cement in the joints. Your advice on where roots like to grow is a good reminder for me. I have a large dogwood tree planted about two feet from the foundation. It has been there for 25 years without damaging the foundation or causing a basement leak.

    I had not considered the issue of spur bearing trees. I'm only beginning to consider the project so tree selection is still up in the air. Is there a ready reference that will tell me whether a tree is a spur bearer or not? And can you suggest a source to inform me of pollination requirements and whether the two trees would be complimentary pollinators?

  • myk1
    9 years ago

    I ran out of room to plant so haven't been keeping up with fruit links for a couple years.
    I know Stark sells their spur types as "Starkspur". I think Grandpa's says if they're spur or tip (can't double check because they pull their web catalog in the off season).

    1940 wasn't that long ago. They probably used better technique because they couldn't always rely on a sump. But if you have solid rock it may not be a big worry because they don't hold water like cinder blocks do.