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| Hi all, I'm not sure what type of peach tree I have. I inherited it from my grandfather and it is at least 10 yrs old. For the past 2 yrs it has given a lot of fruit harvest, and the only problem was little black dots on some of them.
But this summer, the tree is looking really sad. It has lost a lot of leaves and a lot of the leaves that are left have holes in them. Looks like some type of pest damage?? I sprayed about 2 weeks ago with horticultural oil and also have been spraying with liquid copper about every 2 weeks. Should I be spraying it with something else/something stronger? And can anyone please tell me what is eating/eroding the leaves? I really want to keep the tree alive.. Thank you so much for any advice. Here are some other pictures I took this morning
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Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by fruitmaven.WIz5 5 (My Page) on Sun, Jul 22, 12 at 19:24
| That damage looks a lot like my peach tree. I'm still a novice at identifying diseases, but I think it's a bacterial leaf spot. I've talked to a local nurseryman and he thinks the spots won't harm the tree too much this year, and there isn't any way to treat it now. I'll need to spray a copper fungicide (Kocide 3000 seems highly recommended) in the spring, before any leaves emerge. It might help, though most people recommend planting resistant varieties. I'm in WI, so it was important that I planted a hardy tree, so I went for a McKay peach. It came from the nursery with a canker (which I pruned out immediately), and I'm guessing that is where my bacterial leaf spot came from. I'd be glad to hear what more experienced peach growers think! |
Here is a link that might be useful: Bacterial leaf spot description
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- Posted by gator_rider2 z8 Ga. (My Page) on Mon, Jul 23, 12 at 12:57
| AS see in crop coming to end Fertilize tree after last peach made go to pruning size down tree by one half this make healthier wipes new growth and fruiting next year be on stronger wood. By fertilizing leaves have more wax that protect from spots but not totally. Peachtree drys from top down about 3 feet top dry rest stay wet longer in photo your tree to high has about room for 3 tops. Prune as high you reach from ground for top then com down 3 feet below that clean bottom up. With 3 foot top should dry quickly with center open Vase. This make picking easier next year disease less spraying be quicker. A Peach has fast come back after pruning. And grass wet most morning as drys rise into tree clean ground don't have so much humility dew. |
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| I agree it looks like bac. spot. As mentioned there is more damage from the disease lower in the canopy where the foliage and fruit stay wetter. Keeping the tree open does help some. Be careful using copper on a continual basis, as it has a tendency to cause the leaves to yellow and drop, perhaps some of what I'm seeing in the first photo. |
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| Thank you all so much!! I will cut back on the copper, and definitely need to do some pruning. Since we inherited the tree, we have not pruned it at all (this is 2nd year without prune).. so this probably caused the problem. Makes sense.. I went and checked and the leaves on the top branches look really healthy, so it must be due to the bottom ones staying wet too much.. Can I safely prune some branches now without doing damage to the tree, or should I wait until after harvest?? I am not worried about a decreased harvest this year as long as the tree survives. Thanks all again. |
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- Posted by gator_rider2 z8 Ga. (My Page) on Tue, Jul 24, 12 at 4:53
| Yes you do pruning now if cut any limb and you will, get some pruning seal paste type on fast as cut each limb small cuts be okay with out sealer. Fertilize lite a pound be all you need a pint full to top a pound stay off trunk by 2 feet with fertilizer. |
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- Posted by canadianplant (My Page) on Tue, Jul 24, 12 at 9:59
| My pear got the same thing. We had a severely wet spring (4 months of rain between may and june). Even with the tree bieng young, and having only 7 scaffolds, I still managed to get bacterial spot. The weather has since dried out, and the tree is doing good. It isnt spreading nearly as fast as it was. IF you dont want to use copper, I found a few recipies for organic methods of spraying for fungus. THe logic behind it seems sound ( the sprays turn the leaves alkaline, inhibiting fungal growth). |
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- Posted by theman7676 none (My Page) on Tue, Jul 24, 12 at 16:54
| i posted another thread few days ago...having similar problem. lost lots of leafs and all of my fruit droped the fruit has some waxy thing coming out of it before it drops do i have same problem? any advice thank you |
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| OFM once again |
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- Posted by gator_rider2 z8 Ga. (My Page) on Tue, Jul 24, 12 at 21:58
| theman7676 Cut one fruits open look for worm in side next to seed they maybe up to 4 worms in that fruit in photo. After flower drops pedals the moth cut hole in very small peach deposits egg close to seed later worm hatches and feeds. Gel from peach trying to heel worm eat way out in another spot. |
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