Put overhead and western shade over it first leaf if this is on the south or west side.

You won't have to bother with overhead shade next leaf as it hardens off, though western shade may be a good idea for the 2nd leaf.

Keep in mind as well that with sandy soil you may need to water frequently, using multiple emitters around, or just outside the canopy line but not for long to reach that 3 foot depth. The tips look like salt burn/underwatering. Salt burn would be unusual in sandy soil unless you have been fertilizing.

But since it looks like it is on new leaves I am thinking iron deficiency. I am interpreting it from a close up photo without seeing the whole tree or knowing whether it is localized to an area of the tree. I do not know how common iron deficiency is in your area. In my area iron deficiency is almost always due to high pH but in your soil it may actually be lack of iron. Either way initial treatment is with chelated iron (preferably Fe-EDDHA). If high pH is the cause then adding soil sulfur and building up the organic content of the soil over time with a surface mulch is the cure.

This post was edited by Fascist_Nation on Tue, Jul 15, 14 at 18:10

I agree with FN, iron-induced chlorosis due to high pH. The iron may be there but the tree is unable to uptake it.

Thanks for the suggestions. Local nursery thinks it is lack of iron. I will treat it and we will see.

Again, thanks for the help.

Luke

Hi Luke,
Did you ever get your persimmon to perk up? I'm in Arroyo Grande, also growing in some pretty sandy soil. I've seen similar symptoms on my tree, especially late in the season.

Last year I had good fruit ripen on my 3 year old tree, but hardly any flowers or fruit set this year after our warm dry winter.

Best,
Alice