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geraldo_gw

Pluot pollination

geraldo
16 years ago

(Geez, I hope I am using the terms pollinator and pollinizer correctly. I know there is one of you on here who has a fetish about the proper use of those terms. Who is that? Still, I won't mind being corrected.)

It appears that you have to have everything set up just right to get your pluots pollinated.

Two different locations on my place and I see the same phenomena:

I have Dapple Dandy and Flavor Supreme in one location with Laroda and Catalina nearby for pollinators.

It appears that if the Laroda is within 18 to 36 feet of the Dapple and Supreme then I have a crop, but if the Laroda is 50 feet away you can forget it. I really don't understand that. Surely the patronizing bees (hey, that's what the spell checker says to use), that can fly miles from their hives, are not bypassing a tree fifty feet away. I mean, the trees have flowers and bees like flowers.

I have seen apples and cherries apparently get pollinated if they are within several hundred feet of each other. But I have Flavor Grenade and a whole bunch of different plums and pluots at the ends of two rows and the FGs get pollinated. Two hundred feet down the row I don't have the assortment of plums and pluots, but mostly just the FGs, and the FGs are very light. It might be frost, as frost can sometimes be tricky, but knowing my property like I do, I don't think so.

Comments (2)

  • eric_wa
    16 years ago

    geraldo,

    Some people missed their calling. My older brother is one of them. He sould have been a english teacher, or is it grammar teacher. He's constantly correcting my way of speaking.

    Back to subject at hand. 50' is plenty close for pollination. If I recall correctly, honeybees fly up 1/2 a mile. You could also setup some Mason bee shelters. Take a non-treated 4" x 4" and drill 5/16" holes in it. Hang them in your fruit trees. Orchard bees stay closer to home and fly in weather a honeybee wouldn't.
    {{gwi:122479}}

    If you build them, they will come.

    Eric

    Here is a link that might be useful: Orchard Bees

  • joereal
    16 years ago

    Grafting pollenizers directly unto the branches of your pluots would be the most efficient way.

    Would a pollinator make several hundred roundtrips zipping back and forth several feet from a pluot pollinizer to the pluot to intentionally pollinate the trees?

    Rather, the pollinators would most likely forage from flower to flower in THE SAME TREE before they head back home to unload the nectar and pollens and then visit the same or another tree. So grafting a pollenizer in strategic places in the same tree has TREMENDOUS advantages, and grafting is not that hard to do. Fall season is coming up next, and you can graft this fall and it will bloom next spring just in time.

    One of the hardest to set fruit in our area is Flavorella plumcot. Practically I got superb fruit sets this year when a proper pollenizer was grafted directly in different strategic places in the same tree.

    This point of view may not have been taken into account in today's development of current fruit cultivars. Many fruit bearing plants may have pollens that last very long being carried by pollinators for that matter as the pollinators would head back home, unload, and then visit the same or another tree. The tree's pollens should survive that. The pollen's survival has never been considered as a selection factor into the development of today's cultivars. As an example of what we are doing with today's plant breeding is to emasculate the stamens, then enclosed the flower after dusting off with generous amounts of pollens. The same with testing at the plant breeders fields, the trees are practically kissing each other when testing for pollination. And when the home owner tries to grow the same trees and their pollinators a few feet away, things like fruit sets doesn't happen.

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